Heater Core question

[tj43]

My 88 Burb appears to be leaking at the heater core. Are any of the replacement options better than others (I know quality on things like radiators and AC compressors can vary greatly)? If there is a quality option, can someone point me towards it? I’m willing to spend more money to have a part that will last another 36 years.

 

[PrairieDrifter]

I would recommend a brass/copper core. Can't remember the brand. Like factory had. The aluminum ones seem to not fit properly, that'll ruin your heating capability. I got mine from summit it was a perfect fit, going on 6 or 7 years now.

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[Soundmound]

I would recommend a brass/copper core. Can't remember the brand. Like factory had. The aluminum ones seem to not fit properly, that'll ruin your heating capability. I got mine from summit it was a perfect fit, going on 6 or 7 years now.

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Second this. Tried aluminum and fit was trash. Ordered a brass unit from Summit and perfect fit.

 

[rwjtexas]

Agreed ... I put the brass from Summit in mine as well last year ... since the Radiator is brass ... I wanted my heater core to be brass ... in my 85. Aluminum has a tendency to wear out faster ... of course it is half the price but the same amount of work to pull the heater box out and to save $ 40.00 ... it is not worth it not going with the brass

 

[tj43]

Thanks fellas. Going to order the brass/copper unit from Summit. Anything else I should replace “while I am in there?” Is the evaporator in the same box as the heater core?

 

[PrairieDrifter]

Thanks fellas. Going to order the brass/copper unit from Summit. Anything else I should replace “while I am in there?” Is the evaporator in the same box as the heater core?

You'll need to replace the fire wall seal and foam. Just some single sided foam tape, a little silicone and some cleaning. The evaporator is on the firewall side box, you won't have to mess with that to complete the heater core job.

You could get a cheap vacuum tester and check your vac cans on the box, wouldn't be a bad idea. Make sure they actuate properly.

 

[ali_c20]

Thanks fellas. Going to order the brass/copper unit from Summit. Anything else I should replace “while I am in there?” Is the evaporator in the same box as the heater core?

Leak test your heater core before you install it.

 

[rwjtexas]

While you are at it ... I would replace the Fan Motor and squirrel cage along with the 5/8" and 3/4" heater hoses ... once done .. done....

Make sure you attach the vacuum lines before nutting up the box ... it will be a lot easier to get a fat hand on the the tips if you can move the box slightly instead of having to trying to get your hand on the firewall side to get the AC / Heat lines connected. Be sure you remeber which is which ...

TAKE PICTURES ... they are priceless ....

Also watch as many You Tube videos as you can on the secret to remove and install the blend / dampner door.

One last piece of advice ... if yours is not damaged, I would still consider replacing the blend door connector with an aluminum one ... the factory plastic ones break and you are screwed.

And the tip of the day ... if you strip out the smaller holes for the #8, #10, screws, use a small 4" zip tie in the hole all the way in from the screw side, ... screw in slowly and don't over tighten, they will hold just fine .. take some end nips and clip the tie smoot with the screw. ... I know .. it does work.

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A billet aluminum reproduction of the blend-air door clip on many For GM a/c heater boxes, including 1970-1981 for Camaro/Z28, 1970-1972 for Chevy, for Monte Carlo &For ElFor Camino, 1973-1987 for Square BodyFor GM Trucks and 1969-1970 for Impala, for Caprice.

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[SirRobyn0]

I've heard great things about the copper / brass units from Summit AFTER I replaced mine with an aluminum unit from Orielly's.

 

[tj43]

Summit core showed up and looks good. Went ahead and ordered some foam tape and constant tension hose clamps from Amazon (should be here today). Going to try to tackle the swap this weekend. Thanks again for the advice and direction. That's why I love this forum

 

[75gmck25]

There is one bolt that is very hard to reach because it’s down behind the edge of the inner fender. You can unbolt the inner fender to get space for a regular wrench, or some folks have used various universal joints to get in there.

You will need an assistant when you bolt the housing back in, because one person pushes it in against the new foam gasket, and the other person screws it down as the bolts push through. Not really hard, but both folks need some agility to fit in there.

I also 2nd the suggestion to replace the plastic fitting on the blend door, and also check the vacuum pod operation and the condition of the vacuum lines.

 

[rwjtexas]

Agree with @75gmck25 I discovered when I pulled my heater box ... IF you have not pulled the inner fender, you will find out that you have sooooooo much room to work with the wheel and inner fender off .. it is a pain .. yes, but you will find out why when you start working on the box.

 

[Bennyt]

Just a reminder...

If you use any aluminum in your engine; radiator, heater core, intake, heads, block, etc., you should install a sacrificial anode. They cost $20 and can help protect your parts.
Also, always use distilled water.

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grading of aluminum.

 

[tj43]

Box came out pretty easy. I got it split apart and the new Summit core fit nicely. Buttoned her back up with the aluminum blend door latch and pin (thanks for that pointer—the original definitely broke as soon as I touched it).

I have everything cleaned up and ready to go back in the truck. Now I just need some free time to reinstall everything.

 

[tj43]

I should add (in case it helps folks in the future): the “hidden” nut near the inner fender was a breeze to get off using a long shank socket, a u-joint “wobble” adapter, and a 12 inch extension on a half inch drive ratchet wrench (1/4 might be even better for wrench swing in the tight area around the inner fender and AC box).


You can cup your hand under the socket and guide it right onto the stud—which is pretty long and makes indexing onto the nut relatively easy.