Gauge freaking out

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blublazn86

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I have an 87 swb and my temp gauge is freaking out and it is the only one!! When I turn the key off it pegs out and when I turn it back on it goes back to normal! If any bowtie brothers out there can help me out any help will be appreciated. Thanks for your time
 

crazy4offroad

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Check the ground strap between the motor and body, usually found on the back of the block on the passenger side and goes to the firewall. Looks like a bare braided copper wire. Otherwise it may be behind the dash.
 

blublazn86

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Thanks for the advice....I appreciate it
 

CknightK10

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Pop Hood. Get Hedge Timers. Cut Any Visible Wire.

Problem Solved.









JK Dont do that..
You must be registered for see images attach
 

78shortandwide

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Make sure the wire running to the temp sensor on the motor has not melted through.
 

83K5guy

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i have the same problem on my k5 but it stays pegged with or w/o and my wire is showing some. ill check the ground though
 

HotRodPC

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1 of 2 things 83K5, either the wire is melted on something to a dead ground, or just a bare spot has hit ground, but it usually cuz the gauge wire has burnt on a manifold. #2, the temp sender is bad and its now going full ground internally of the sender switch itself. Full Ground will always go to direct pegged.

How those electric guage switches work, is the sender is threaded into the block so its got its ground naturally. (if the ground strap to the chassis to firewall is correct), then the usually green wire to the guage sends voltage in milivolts or less than 12volts to the guage to move the needle. If I am recalling correctly, as an example if you have a guage that reads 0-260, then 0 would be 12 volts, as the motor warms the switch cuts the voltage down, so if 0 is 12volts, and 260 is close to zero volts or grounded to peg the gauge. So half of 260 would be 130, so at 130 degrees, the switch would be sending 6 volts, half of 12 to the guage. And that can also work backwards depeding on the vehicles ground system. American cars ususally do it right, *** cars do it wrong but its all the same principle just need to know which format is being used and what voltage scale is being used. I think its 5 volts that most fuel guages work off of in a GM vehicle for example. At least back in the 60's it was.
 
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oneluckypops

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I do not think his problem is under the hood. The reason is there is 1 wire that goes to the sender (ground). If the wire was melted or grounding out under the hood the gauge would read fully pegged 100%of the time, NOT when the key is off but drop with the key on. The gauge itself has to be shorted OR the printed circuit board on the back of the instrument cluster.
 

HotRodPC

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I do not think his problem is under the hood. The reason is there is 1 wire that goes to the sender (ground). If the wire was melted or grounding out under the hood the gauge would read fully pegged 100%of the time, NOT when the key is off but drop with the key on. The gauge itself has to be shorted OR the printed circuit board on the back of the instrument cluster.

I do belive the guage still gets power from the ignition to operate. So key off, guage is 0, the second he turns the key on it goes to pegged, then its USUALLY in the sender wire or sender switch. But don't get me to lying. I am more experienced in that stuff with anaolog seperate guages, not on printed circuitry.
 

HotRodPC

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Being drugged up, not reading well, I guess you could be right Pops, 83K5 is saying his stays pegged w or w/o so I can only assume that means with or without the key on, so yeah, sounds like guage is fried in that case.
 

83K5guy

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thanks didnt want to hear that lol but i guess i could order a single replacement from lmc and replace correct or is it more to it than that?
 

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