Front end alignment issues

[VAL]

MY 86 K10 is pulling to the right when driving down the road. I recently had all tie rods and drag links replaced, then I took it down to the alignment shop and had it done. the truck is pulling even more to the right than before. I took it back to the shop and was told these trucks don't have adjustment for pull. He said to switch the tires on the front, so I did, and no change. my ? is, is there something else that I'm not considering, that is making my truck pull to the right? I have a 6" procomp all leaf spring lift. any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[350runner]

Its in the tie rod adjustment. Btw bad ass tire and rim combo. What size tire and rims?

 

[VAL]

I took it back to the alignment shop, and its up to specs. my next guess would be the bearings on the passenger side are dragging from being over tight/over adjusted. I lifted the front end and the drivers side wheel spins freely and the pass side has a lot more drag. I just had those replaced too. Tire & wheel combo is 20x12 fuel on 33/12.50/20 toyo mt.

 

[350runner]

Thanks

 

[Mater08]

Did they give you a print out of the specs from the alignment?

 

[bucket]

Could also be a restricted brake hose or a seized caliper.

 

[Meyster89]

I have not done it myself 'yet', but to my understanding, these trucks use shims of sorts to help align the front end. A friend of mine wrecked his truck and has rebuilt it from the frame up. He is the one that said something about using shims. He said it's also a pain in the arse because it's a trial and error type thing. Shim, drive, shim drive. Mine pulls to the right just like this as well and he's going to help get my aligned correctly.

 

[AJII]

Shims are not used on 4wds. Which the OP has.

 

[Tyger13us]

Shims are not used on 4wds. Which the OP has.

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[ndfrspd]

Camber and caster adjustment on these trucks with the Dana 44 or the corporation 10 bolt are done with an upper ball joint bushing adjustment or replacement. The factory installed bushing has if I remember correctly, minimal adjustment capability. I just did mine and replaced the original bushing with the 1.5* versions for both sides, there are smaller versions also available. If the bushing is frozen in the axle housing, ball joint removal is required to remove the bushing. On occasion I have used the shim method between the knuckle and the spindle for adjustment in conjunction with bushing replacement/adjustment or on it"s own to avoid removing the ball joint. I know others make a spanner tool for removing the bushing and I have used others but prefer the OTC version for it's stoutness.
When in doubt, it is best to have a competent alignment shop do an alignment reading on the current specs allowing You to, after disassembly calculate the correct bushing/shim replacement needed to meet factory or custom specs. On occasion I have had the correct clocking of the shim printed out for easy assembly and not just relying on guess work when going that route.
I welcome others with more knowledge or different methodology to chime in on My post.

ndfrspd


OTC spanner tool PT # 7080
SPECIALTY PRODUCTS:
1/4* bushing pt# 23002
1/2* bushing pt# 23004
3/4* bushing pt# 23006
1.0* bushing pt# 23008
1.25* bushing pt# 23010
1.5* bushing pt# 23012

 

[idahovette]

Napa , Specailty products ,Moog ,and a couple of others make a shim that goes behind the spindle on a 4WD. There are maybe 10 different sizes in increments of 1/8 of a degree. Best to have a competent shop do an alignment check and get a printout and then figure your change. Take it all down and repack your wheel and spindle bearings while you are there. Also check your axle u-joints. After you get it together you need to double check the toe and then center the steering wheel