Front Brakes - replace? turn? etc?

[McCSquare]

I pulled the front wheels off the pickup this afternoon and I'm wondering what I should do now. The truck has plenty of stopping power, enough to lock the tires at will. But they squeal, they pull a little bit to the left, and vibrate.

I'm looking at these brakes and I'm wondering what I should replace. Due to the vibration/lumpy stops I think I'm replacing the rotors. The calipers have a good bit of buildup on them, but I think with some wire brushing/cleaning they could be respectable. And the hub, which I would have to get pressed into new rotors. Is that fine? Would you guys reuse it?

This is my first brake job attempt on a truck, especially anything older than 10 years. Could use some experienced opinions.

 

[chengny]

The rotors look good (from here anyway). The right one may be slightly grooved but not enough to machine or scrap.

I think discard thickness is 31mm (1.22"). Check my facts - the minimum thickness should be stamped on the backside of the rotor.

Vibration, noise and pulling that cannot be attributed to worn pads (yours look good) is usually caused by binding of the caliper/slide pin assemblies. I would be more concerned about them.

Check the rubber hose section of the brake lines for bulges. This can cause low hydraulic pressure at that brake and the front end will pull to the opposite side.

Also check the wheel bearings for excessive play. This can often cause vibration as well.

 

[smurph20]

Grease the pins with caliper grease and then make sure the hoses are good dont rely on the outer apperance either. Also your rotors look glazed from getting tht rotors over heated. MIght not hurt to take some sand paper and scuff the rotors.

 

[McCSquare]

The rotors look good (from here anyway). The right one may be slightly grooved but not enough to machine or scrap.

I think discard thickness is 31mm (1.22"). Check my facts - the minimum thickness should be stamped on the backside of the rotor.

Vibration, noise and pulling that cannot be attributed to worn pads (yours look good) is usually caused by binding of the caliper/slide pin assemblies. I would be more concerned about them.

Check the rubber hose section of the brake lines for bulges. This can cause low hydraulic pressure at that brake and the front end will pull to the opposite side.

Also check the wheel bearings for excessive play. This can often cause vibration as well.

The hoses "look" good. I'll need to get a caliper out, I might have them turned/machined just in case and replace the pads. I'll try dissembling the calipers, maybe taking them apart and cleaning the pistons etc. Then grease it all back up.

I took some shots of the rear. It looks like the PO totally removed the parking brake. Should I replace the cylinders? All the hardware? Everything is cheap enough I don't mind throwing some parts at it just so I don't have a problem down the road.

 

[89Suburban]

Love the hi-def pics, keep them coming.


That one locking hub looks a little loose where it mates with the hub.

 

[bucket]

I'd check the bearings, sand the rotors, then replace the brake pads and hoses. That should fix you up pretty good, the rotors don't seem to warp very often on these trucks. A minor amount of pulsation wouldn't bother me, so if there is some, I'd just leave it be at that point. Occasionally a lightly warped pair of rotors will work themselves true again if everything else is properly working/lubed. Occasionally.

 

[McCSquare]

Love the hi-def pics, keep them coming.


That one locking hub looks a little loose where it mates with the hub.

Yeah, that one is missing one of the little screws on the face of the locking hub. It worked very well in the snow, so I'll just try and get a fresh screw for it.

I'd check the bearings, sand the rotors, then replace the brake pads and hoses. That should fix you up pretty good, the rotors don't seem to warp very often on these trucks. A minor amount of pulsation wouldn't bother me, so if there is some, I'd just leave it be at that point. Occasionally a lightly warped pair of rotors will work themselves true again if everything else is properly working/lubed. Occasionally.

I checked and the calipers are only 18 bucks at AZ (after core charge). At that price I think I'll replace them just in case.

And my truck was lifted, the brake lines seem long enough. Which makes me wonder if the PO got longer lines or just the factory ones clear. What kind of brake hoses should I buy?

And what do I do with the rear brakes? I have no experience with drums. My sedan is 4 wheel discs.

 

[89Suburban]

Yeah, that one is missing one of the little screws on the face of the locking hub. It worked very well in the snow, so I'll just try and get a fresh screw for it.



I checked and the calipers are only 18 bucks at AZ (after core charge). At that price I think I'll replace them just in case.

And my truck was lifted, the brake lines seem long enough. Which makes me wonder if the PO got longer lines or just the factory ones clear. What kind of brake hoses should I buy?

And what do I do with the rear brakes? I have no experience with drums. My sedan is 4 wheel discs.

2 great write ups here by one of our esteemed members:

Part I-

http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/showthread.php?t=115&highlight=brakes

Part II-

http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/showthread.php?t=116&highlight=brakes

 

[Swims350]

honestly we change pads out all the time but a good general rule of thumb what I was always told was anytime you change pads or shoes have the drums or rotors turned.

front pads aint too bad or too worn I'd guess over 1/2 pad left, rear looks a bit more.

does the steering wheel shake or the entire truck?

usually entire truck is rears, if it's only when on the brakes, and steering wheel is usually fronts.

Then again anytime you have the front apart, clean check, replace as needed and repack the bearings.

Also while in there check the tie rod and ball joints, if nothing else grease them at the least.

IF they have grease fittings that is.

You have 2 drag link ends up high on the ds, then a tie rod end on each side in front, and 2 ball joints per side, one upper one lower. 4wd's I'm unsure if you can get to the ball joints easy or not anyways.

Also check u joints, if they have grease fittings, grease em. Most of the time the front axle ones don't usually have a fittings, they are on the outer parts behind the spindle/knuckles, 3 on the front driveshaft, one at the axle and 2 at the cardan joint up by the t-case, then at least 2 out back, not knowing if you have a 1 piece driveshaft or not.

Also a good time to check fluid levels in the front axle and rear. even the t-case, trans and engine lol.

 

[smurph20]

Hey Swims you forgot to tell him to check the blinker fluid. LMAO good check list though.

 

[Swims350]

man I tell ya when I get started I try to check everything. I usually try to just dedicate one full day to it, start doing one thing, think of a few others to check.

I always check, clean and repack anytime I have to have a rotor or something off, then when I can think of it grease everything.

Anytime the hood's up I try to check washer fluid, coolant PS fluid, oil trans etc.

That way I can do it all at once and forget it.

 

[smurph20]

Very good way of doing things. If you can start on the left side and work your way around the front of the truck and check everything as you go youll likely find things going wrong before they go wrong and cause you either a tow bill or a more expensive repair bill.

 

[Swims350]

well for anyone who has just bought a vehicle or is just now doing some repairs or work that hasn't been done in 6 months or more, hen IMO it's a good idea to check it all over, to do exactly that, avoid a break down or tow bill as best you can.


I have often changed pads and shoes withou turning, but my old man swears it should be done everytime you change them to give the best brakes possible and the least noise/vibration or shakes as can be.

I've done it without doing so and been just fine, but now my 88 does shake when on the brakes, and it's got new calipers, pads, shoes, hardware kit out back and new wheel cylinders, so I know it's in the rotors or drums.


On these though having to remove the rotor is kind of a big job and the bearings need checked, cleaned and repacked or replaced, and the seals changed, period, it would suck to do the job over shortly after doing it already due to bearings failure or seal failure.


oh and on the u joints, again grease them but check fr movment in them, if they have alot of movement like say 1/4 or so, change them.

 

[bucket]

Yeah, that one is missing one of the little screws on the face of the locking hub. It worked very well in the snow, so I'll just try and get a fresh screw for it.



I checked and the calipers are only 18 bucks at AZ (after core charge). At that price I think I'll replace them just in case.

And my truck was lifted, the brake lines seem long enough. Which makes me wonder if the PO got longer lines or just the factory ones clear. What kind of brake hoses should I buy?

And what do I do with the rear brakes? I have no experience with drums. My sedan is 4 wheel discs.

These days I like to replace only what is worn/bad for sure. Last time I replaced calipers, it took like 4 pairs to get good ones. First pair leaked. Second pair pulled one way after a hard stop. Third set intermittently pulled the other way. Fourth pair has been on there for several years now. From now on, if I have good working calipers, I leave them be.

If your hoses are rubber, they are probably stock. In stock form, they mount to the center of the frame rail, but you probably have drop brackets that relocate the brake hoses below the frame rail. If they are longer than stock, they are probably braided stainless steel hoses.

 

[Irishman999]

I think rotors should always be turned when you do a brake job, with everything involved anyways why not recondition the surface that is the main thing stopping the vehicle!

When you go to get the rotors turned just head it to Napa or any other real parts store that has a real brake lathe. If you go to Orileys or Autozone they dont have the right equipment, one guy was in the process of knocking out my wheel studs thinking the two parts would come apart when I got the hell out of Orileys.

I replaced everything on my last brake job with stuff from Autozone. It was been working for a few years now but my truck does pull to the right really bad under hard braking, I think its the caliper but I could be wrong.