Driver4r's Monte

[Driver4r]

Not in the Th350 converters. Now if you have a Th400 converter with the lugs then that one is a hair stronger than the Th350 with the flat pad where you have to both Nut and Bolt the pads to the flywheel but in the Th350 converters, the flat pad units are best. They are also getting to be rare and hard to find cores. The guy who bought my 88 Burb, works for Transtar in OKC, when he seen all my Th350 converters with pads, he about got a boner. Told me don't even get rid of those, of course I knew that already.

Lol, this one came out of a 70 Impala. But of course its not staying, the engine lugs against the convertor when I put it in gear, cause the stall is to low.

 

[HotRodPC]

Lol, this one came out of a 70 Impala. But of course its not staying, the engine lugs against the convertor when I put it in gear, cause the stall is to low.

That might be what you're thinking of the flat pads not being better. The flat pad converters are all 1400-1600 stall unless you have it worked over, the bolt lug type can be 1400-1600 or 1600-1800. But the flat pad models are stronger. I can't recall now what's stronger in them. It might be a bigger Stator, don't recall for sure now.

 

[bucket]

I just thought they made the change to the threaded lugs to speed up the process on the assembly line.

 

[Stewzer55]

That's a much more logical reason, but I could see the threaded lugs being weaker just due to the trade off. Mind you I'm no engineer and more of a healthcare person.

 

[HotRodPC]

I just thought they made the change to the threaded lugs to speed up the process on the assembly line.

That could be possible, but it just so happens the flat pad units have better internals. I prefer the flat pads myself. Yes, it's slower on install, but in the event you strip the threads out of a bolt lug, then in most cases, you're pulling a trans to make a repair if you're handy. If you're not handy then you're buying a new converter too.

I've still got a flat pad 11in furnace brazed 3000 stall that I had in my 64 GMC that was lightly used. I bet it doesn't have 1000 miles on it. I hope to have a purpose for it someday.

 

[Driver4r]

That might be what you're thinking of the flat pads not being better. The flat pad converters are all 1400-1600 stall unless you have it worked over, the bolt lug type can be 1400-1600 or 1600-1800. But the flat pad models are stronger. I can't recall now what's stronger in them. It might be a bigger Stator, don't recall for sure now.

Nope, its the original convertor. I pulled it out myself.

 

[Driver4r]

topped it back off today, so far I have put 4 full tanks of gas thrue it, plus some. So actually probly around 5.5ish. Still needs some fine tuning, and definetly a convertor and shifter(on the floor).

 

[Driver4r]

You know the saying, "You can never have enough power, your always going to want more" Well I know the feeling lol, Now ive been reading into Go Fast Gas, looking at mabey a 100Shot(4lb/min). I would have it kick in at around 3000, but have a toggle to kill the controller so I wouldn't hit it accidently during normal driving. It SHOULD take it XD. Mabey start with a 75shot when the time comes. But befor I start looking into that I have some other priorities, like convertor, Rear differential, shifter.

 

[Driver4r]

Well. It's nice to see that Noone really noticed I was gone...........

But I'm back for now.
Here's an update. I've just been driving it alot since I got it on the road previously. I put those 15x9's with the n50's on the back. And it was all great... until yesterday. All of a sudden. After it warms up(this is later at night). It all of a sudden doesn't want to idle. It started as not wanting to idle well in gear. And when I got home tonight it stalled in park. And when I say not idle, I mean the rpm drops below the capable rpm range and it loped to slow to be able to idle.....

Any ideas???? This just started. And I've only noticed it at night thus far.

 

[89Suburban]

Do a vacuum test on it.

 

[Driver4r]

Do a vacuum test on it.

I havnt done one when its acting up. But thr cam is on the radical side as far as vacume goes. 11.5 in park, and 7 in gear.

 

[Driver4r]

Ill add some more info.
Warm it runs around 190─210 which is normal.
Cold it has 40psi at idle and 10 when hot, also ok.
Idle is set at 750-800.

 

[350runner]

Sounds like it is all in the carb.

 

[Stewzer55]

Vacuum leak.

 

[Driver4r]

No thats actually what it should pull for vacume.
But today when i got home i ran vacume and hooked up a snap-on cylender delay again. And all cylenders reacted about the same.

So ive come to the conclusion that its just a really bad case of heat soak. Because there is no flow of air under the hood othan the radiator and fan. And we ran the fuel line alot like stock but not rested against the engine. Also i have an aluminum intake to try and keep temp down. But since theres no airflow. All its doing is heating up the carb.

Befor this heat weve been having(Also very humid), it ram fairly good. Its always had little bit of heat soak. But never this bad