drive shaft hits crossmember

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k5krawler

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what shall i do? C notch the cross member? is this common?
 

crazy4offroad

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How much lift? Did you eliminate the double cardan joint? Mine has 6" lift and the DC joint eliminated but wasn't enough to cause contact. Check your trans mount bushings.
 

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Check your trans mount bushings.

...and the motor mounts. My front driveshaft was hitting the crossmember under load, turned out to be the rubber in both motor mounts was mush.
 

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...and the motor mounts. My front driveshaft was hitting the crossmember under load, turned out to be the rubber in both motor mounts was mush.

its not hitting the cross member i mispoke but its about an inch away it hits my exhaust forshure tho
 

skysurfer

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Mine clears by more than an inch when the truck is sitting at idle but the worn mounts allowed the engine to torque over enough for contact. It was a bitch to figure out where the noise was coming from because laying under the truck and looking around you would never think the engine could twist that much.

Just to be sure, check the top side of your crossmember near the u-joint with an inspection mirror. If there's a small shiney spot it's been hitting.
 
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crazy4offroad

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My header collector collar contacts the driveshaft with very little front suspension compression. It never really bothered me it contacting but my eventual fix is going to be cut off the collector flange section and weld the reducer directly to the collector. The way my truck gets all twisted up the bastards leak no matter what I do anyway so might as well make them solid, or do bell flanges.

On the other side of the passenger collector I noticed sometimes the front leaf lower shackle bolt sometimes contacts the headers too. I think better designed headers would be the best fix, I think I got the cheapest ones I could find.
 

k5krawler

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My header collector collar contacts the driveshaft with very little front suspension compression. It never really bothered me it contacting but my eventual fix is going to be cut off the collector flange section and weld the reducer directly to the collector. The way my truck gets all twisted up the bastards leak no matter what I do anyway so might as well make them solid, or do bell flanges.

On the other side of the passenger collector I noticed sometimes the front leaf lower shackle bolt sometimes contacts the headers too. I think better designed headers would be the best fix, I think I got the cheapest ones I could find.

i cant even put the driveshaft in cuz it hits the exhaust
 

crazy4offroad

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More info or pics would be helpful, dont know if you're talking about headers or a Y-pipe or what.
 

skysurfer

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Well, now I think he's talking about the Y-pipe.

Did you just install a lift kit? If so, just have a muffler shop install a new section of exhaust for more clearance. As c4o said, a couple of pics would eliminate the party-game guessing of what the heck you're talking about.
 

89Suburban

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:pics-stfu: :popcorn:
 

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How much lift? Did you eliminate the double cardan joint? Mine has 6" lift and the DC joint eliminated but wasn't enough to cause contact. Check your trans mount bushings.

I have this problem where the front shaft knocks/taps against the crossmember. How did you "eliminate the double cardan joint"? What amount of clearance do you need?
 

crazy4offroad

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76 and older 203s came with a regular t-case yoke instead of the more common flange for the dc joint. It will bolt right to a 205 but you'll have to have the driveshaft lengthened and modified for a single u-joint at the t-case end at a driveline shop.
 

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What's the benefit of eliminating the dc joint, isn't it for eliminating the vibrations that come from having a different angle on the u-joints or am I completely off on this one.
 

McCSquare

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76 and older 203s came with a regular t-case yoke instead of the more common flange for the dc joint. It will bolt right to a 205 but you'll have to have the driveshaft lengthened and modified for a single u-joint at the t-case end at a driveline shop.

I'm pretty sure I have an NP208. Its a 1984 K10. All of that work sounds expensive. What about my T/C mount/bushings?

RoughCountry sells GM T/C Drop Kits with their 4" lifts... My issue is the driveshaft is too close to the crossmember. I imagine this would make my problem worse? My truck was add-a-leaf lifted by the PO.

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