clunk into reverse or drive

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HotRodPC

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I counted 12 but moved it to 11 but im using a stock GM cable and a TCI bracket for qaudrajets.

Its crazy that 1mm would have that much of an impact. Just goes to show the need to have these cables adjusted correctly.

You are right. Very sensative. Also why it's important to have the right geometry and this is why there throttle correctors for Holley and Eddy carbs. Usually, the Q jets are going to be set up right from the get go. Even on an older Q jet. USUALLY, that don't mean ALWAYS. An OEM manual trans carb for example, maybe off.
 

MadOgre

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Yeppers.

I wasn't able to get the slider to come out with the stock GM bracket though so I had to get the TCI bracket which moved it about an inch further away from the throttle shaft.
 

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Mine is a 77' Rochester operating a 90' 700r4 exactly the same lever as the 85 Rochester sitting on my work bench
 

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If you know for a fact a U joint is bad, that's all it takes to get a clunk. Don't forget, a driveshaft is like a large hollow echo chamber so any noise attached to it is going to be amplified. Then of course you have this 1/4 to 1/2 turn of play. I think I may have mentioned it already, depending if you have an open diff, or what locker or LSD unit you may have, this could be normal. If you know it's an open differential, then it's to much for sure and is with MOST LSD units also. Detroit Locker and I'd imagine Yukon Locker since they're very similar are the only ones I know that allow that much play. And it's really not play. It's the amount of play between both axles and the play within the ring and pinion, but it will FEEL like alot and APPEAR to be alot more gear lash than it really is.

Another question, is this play your talking about, is this with the trans in Park and the wheels off the ground? Or wheels up or what? Explain that as to how you're doing this play test. Something we all may be overlooking is your transfer case. I'm wondering if you might have excessive chain slop that can be causing your clunk?

I don't see the g80 option code, so probably an open diff? Will be getting the rear end off the ground tomorrow and checking wheel spin, etc

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flyboy1100

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ok, finally got a chance today to lift the rear end and check for play. my jack stands aren't quite tall enough to get the weight off the rear tires so I just checked with the jack under the diff.

there is a decents amount of play either coming from the rear end or the transmission, 1/8-1/6 of a turn or so. there is also some side to side/vertical slop in the rear end yoke where it goes into the diff. about 1/16" i would say.

also when i spin a wheel in park the other goes opposite direction, so open diff
 

HotRodPC

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ok, finally got a chance today to lift the rear end and check for play. my jack stands aren't quite tall enough to get the weight off the rear tires so I just checked with the jack under the diff.

there is a decents amount of play either coming from the rear end or the transmission, 1/8-1/6 of a turn or so. there is also some side to side/vertical slop in the rear end yoke where it goes into the diff. about 1/16" i would say.

also when i spin a wheel in park the other goes opposite direction, so open diff

All things considered, including age of the truck, play in trans, + play in rear gears etc, 1/8 of a turn really is not all that bad. Consider it well broke in and a bit used but probably normal. As far as the wheels spinning in opposite direction, Gov-Lok G80 does spin in opposite direction just like an open diff. But, you pretty much know it's not a Limited Slip Diff, or Locker. It's most likely an open diff, but could also be a Gov-Lok Bomb.
 

flyboy1100

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What about the side to side play?

When I change the oil I will take pics of what is inside so maybe can figure out what I really have, although I don't see any RPO code that would indicate a locker

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Mine has about the same amount of play on 500k but has no side play as you describe.

Also there is absolutely nothing to say that you have the original axle under there unless you know the complete history of owners on the truck.

Gov lock axles require GM limited slip additive. Or you can kiss it goodbye.
 

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Right, I don't know much about the truck. I an only assuming from the RPO codes.

I was going to put the trans in neutral and count revolutions to guess at the gear ratio. Also going to find the number stamping and look that up too. I am thinking with the side to side play the input bearing is probably shot. Could also maybe be the whine/howl I hear?

I have no idea what a gov lock would look like internally so pulling the cover won't help me any

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I think pulling the cover would help a great deal. You can count your teeth to know what gears and you can see whats going on. Also be able to see how much metal is in your gear oil. I would assume with the noise and the side play that your rear end is shot. If not at least you get to change your gear oil. You don't need a gasket for the diff cover, just use rtv silicone. let it mostly dry before sinching down your cover bolts to tourqe specs.

Good thing is 10 bolt rear ends are plentiful and cheap. Cheapest to rebuild also if that's how you go. Should check out putting a Detroit True Trac/Thorsen in there if you rebuild. Or time to upgrade to a beefier axle.
 

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Im not too far away from the same scenario with mine too, if that makes you feel any better :)
 

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the posi rear end parts are not cheap! all the bearings etc aren't too bad though.
 

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Well the cheapest way is to find a decent axle to slip under neath. Means you still gotta pull the cover to see what gears you need
 

HotRodPC

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yeah, you're dealing with a 4x4, so you need your rear gear to match the front gears. Otherwise, you can find 10 bolt rears for $100 that run. Sure they're used and you never know how long they'll last but axles really do go for a long long long time. Usually what kills them when they have been properly set up at the factory, is they get worn, then people do burn outs and such and break them. Otherwise, even a wore out will get you across country if you can tolerate a little bit of slop between drive and reverse. Running them low oil tends to wear them out quicker too, but still, even low oil isn't a killer like running a motor without oil. You can always tell when an axle has been run low on oil for to long. It'll usually howel like a wolf at freeway speeds. If you buy a used one and the gears aren't broke, and it don't howl, you can expect it to get you by for a good long while with some new oil and if you don't do burnouts and abuse it and such. Axle assemblies really are pretty strong and tolerate quite a bit of abuse and will run wore out and not leave you stranded if you're willing to tolerate the howling and clunking. Kinda like an old man with his joints creeking and cracking. He's wore the hell out, be he keeps on going.
 

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yeah, you're dealing with a 4x4, so you need your rear gear to match the front gears. Otherwise, you can find 10 bolt rears for $100 that run. Sure they're used and you never know how long they'll last but axles really do go for a long long long time. Usually what kills them when they have been properly set up at the factory, is they get worn, then people do burn outs and such and break them. Otherwise, even a wore out will get you across country if you can tolerate a little bit of slop between drive and reverse. Running them low oil tends to wear them out quicker too, but still, even low oil isn't a killer like running a motor without oil. You can always tell when an axle has been run low on oil for to long. It'll usually howel like a wolf at freeway speeds. If you buy a used one and the gears aren't broke, and it don't howl, you can expect it to get you by for a good long while with some new oil and if you don't do burnouts and abuse it and such. Axle assemblies really are pretty strong and tolerate quite a bit of abuse and will run wore out and not leave you stranded if you're willing to tolerate the howling and clunking. Kinda like an old man with his joints creeking and cracking. He's wore the hell out, be he keeps on going.

I have broke my driver side axle twice. last time it broke right at the carrier bearing into about 15 pieces and debris. got a new one cleaned it out with a magnet changed my outer bearing left the carrier alone, changed the gear fluid twice and ive never had a problem from it since.

Although I stopped opening the 4 barrels in the mud when im stuck LOL.
 

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