Can "carburetor" and "throttle response" be in the same sentence?

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Kapdin

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I know im no expert on carbs but the the two quadrajets i own.....blow for response. Can they and if not what brand can? they both run great but i understand the term "Quadra-bog". Im not even talking 4bbl kick in.
 

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You also had your carb rebuilt by a guy who un neccessarily removed a bunch of vacuum lines.
Does it ping when you floor it?
 

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You can still get very good throttle response from a Q Jet. What will improve throttle response more than anything though is going to a Eddy aftermarket intake. IMO, that's about the only real noticeable difference going to an Eddy intake is quicker throttle response. Doesn't add power really, just makes a quicker snappier response.
 

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they both run great but i understand the term "Quadra-bog". Im not even talking 4bbl kick in.

If the rear barrels are set too light,so the rear barrels come on to quick,at to low of RPMs,there will be a terrible "BOG".
If the rear barrels are set too heavy,then,the rear barrels will not open at all.
The Q-jet that is properly set up will almost leap the truck off the ground,but,that is also dependent on all of the other systems in proper working order and a well tuned engine too.
JMOP.
 

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If the rear barrels are set too light,so the rear barrels come on to quick,at to low of RPMs,there will be a terrible "BOG".
If the rear barrels are set too heavy,then,the rear barrels will not open at all.
The Q-jet that is properly set up will almost leap the truck off the ground,but,that is also dependent on all of the other systems in proper working order and a well tuned engine too.
JMOP.

Agreed.

My brothers '81 GMC has a quadrajet and has damn good throttle response. The quadrajet in my Camaro never did, but it had a host of other problems too.
 

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I know im no expert on carbs but the the two quadrajets i own.....blow for response. Can they and if not what brand can? they both run great but i understand the term "Quadra-bog". Im not even talking 4bbl kick in.

they need to be adjusted. nothing some time, a vacuum gauge and some test driving can't fix.
 

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they need to be adjusted. nothing some time, a vacuum gauge and some test driving can't fix.

And someone that knows carbs....seems like he is in the sticks up there! In a case like that, Sean Murphy is the answer.
 
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Also, tuning aside, don't expect neck-snapping, rappy response, from an engine with minimal power....which is basically every square made (in stock form).....also coupled to a stock converter. Qjets have been successfully road raced where snappy response is paramount for rev-matched downshifting. Build a 400hp motor hooked to a manual trans with a light flywheel and she'll bark ;)
 

Jims86

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Also, tuning aside, don't expect neck-snapping, rappy response, from an engine with minimal power....which is basically every square made (in stock form).....also coupled to a stock converter. Qjets have been successfully road raced where snappy response is paramount for rev-matched downshifting. Build a 400hp motor hooked to a manual trans with a light flywheel and she'll bark ;)

True, 165 hp,and 275 ft bs in most of the squares till 86.
More than sufficient to do there job when geared right.
 

Kapdin

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Yea im not asking for neck snapping. its just irritating. we have a ton of snow and im plow through it twice a day for 8 miles one way. And just crusin 30mph ish hit snow and BOOGGGGGGGGGG! I set both 4bbl's based on crusing and hammer it and they both work well that way now and the 79 is pretty quick off the line the 77 not so much. But im not even getting into the 4bbl range just from 1/8ish throttle to about 1/2 and it has to bog every time then it catches up. im not sure if this is making sence or not. and also i would LOVE to find someone to teach me these carbs but here thats impossible. its ALLLLLLL diesel or denali's around here. I feel like i have a decent "IDEA" of how they work but the fine tuning is getting very irritating.
 

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Yea im not asking for neck snapping. its just irritating. we have a ton of snow and im plow through it twice a day for 8 miles one way. And just crusin 30mph ish hit snow and BOOGGGGGGGGGG! I set both 4bbl's based on crusing and hammer it and they both work well that way now and the 79 is pretty quick off the line the 77 not so much. But im not even getting into the 4bbl range just from 1/8ish throttle to about 1/2 and it has to bog every time then it catches up. im not sure if this is making sence or not. and also i would LOVE to find someone to teach me these carbs but here thats impossible. its ALLLLLLL diesel or denali's around here. I feel like i have a decent "IDEA" of how they work but the fine tuning is getting very irritating.

So, i know you had one rebuilt by that nutty professor, how about the other?
are you still running the stock air claner with heater tube? totally recommended.
Manifold heat crossovers are known to get plugged as well. Maybe get some gaskets, and find a machine shop to hot tank your intakes, or spring for new Edelbrock or holly dual planes.
 

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IF the carbs is working as they should,and,the engines is well tuned,then,it seems that at the lower speeds You are not running in the RPM range to allow everything to work and respond as it should.
Using a lower gear and getting into it within the RPM range to allow the engine to really turn on the horses takes a change in strategy and driving habits.
Now go out and hitit.:drunk:
 

Kapdin

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hummmm yea the 77 is close to stock. i have the heat tube and stove pipe intake for it but the egr valve is gone and the other vac/emmisions are gone. When i got the 77 the intire 4bbl linkage was missing and they had bent the stop tab on them to "open further????" but i made my own linkage and bent the tab and stiffin the spring and it seems to come on, sitting in park and hammer it she starts to open and road tested seems to work. Im sure that carb hasn't been opened up if ever but she starts runs and idles so well i can't emagine it needs a cleaning.
 

Kapdin

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IF the carbs is working as they should,and,the engines is well tuned,then,it seems that at the lower speeds You are not running in the RPM range to allow everything to work and respond as it should.
Using a lower gear and getting into it within the RPM range to allow the engine to really turn on the horses takes a change in strategy and driving habits.
Now go out and hitit.:drunk:

yea, well i have been in the 79 just dropping it into 2nd and yea it works well that way but ..... i have 8 miles and im always having to shift to 3 for 800ft then back to 2nd and.... u get the picture. and both trucks are running 4.10's and only 31" and 9.5's so im not asking alot from them right now i don't think.
 

Jims86

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hummmm yea the 77 is close to stock. i have the heat tube and stove pipe intake for it but the egr valve is gone and the other vac/emmisions are gone. When i got the 77 the intire 4bbl linkage was missing and they had bent the stop tab on them to "open further????" but i made my own linkage and bent the tab and stiffin the spring and it seems to come on, sitting in park and hammer it she starts to open and road tested seems to work. Im sure that carb hasn't been opened up if ever but she starts runs and idles so well i can't emagine it needs a cleaning.

Ok, Lets forget about the EGr for now, the reason I mention the heat riser, and the Intake manifold exhaust crossover is because of the low temps you are operating in.
195* thermostat is really important.
The heat riser tube for the air cleaner, helps keep the incomming air at a more ideal tem, and the exhaust heat crossover runs under, and heats the area directly under the carb, to help with fuel atomization. Too cold, and the fuel comes out of suspension, and puddles,,which can cause a rich bog, amongst other wierd ****.
In my opinion, for your situation,,I would try to find a couple of TBI Air Cleaners.
Their diverter doors dont rely on a valved vacuum source to operate....which is helpful, if you dont have those vacuum lines anymore.
And just a side note, Stock GM manifold designs have a fuel distribution issue, especially to 1,3,7, and 8. Notice how the stock manifold T's out at those farthest cylinders. Aftermarket pieces have a nice smooth Y, which take care of this issue.
 
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