Roller or flat tappet cam? Today's off-the-shelf oils don't do a good job of protecting flat tappet lobes and lifters because they have very low concentrations of the scuff inhibitor ZDDP. That's because zinc is bad for cat converters. However, those oils work fine with roller cams and lifters.
If you have a new flat tappet cam that is stock or very mild, and the valve springs are stock or near stock, you can usually get away with using moly lube on the lobes and lifter faces, and a break-in additive like CompCams #159 along with standard motor oil. Keep in mind that straight 30 wt won't flow as well as 10W-30 when at shop temperature.
For a performance cam with aggressive lobes like a Comp XE or Lunati Voodoo, or if you are using stiffer springs, I would spend a few bucks more and use a break-in oil such as Driven BR30 (10W-30) for the first few hundred miles. After break-in you can then use an oil with high ZDDP levels such as Driven Hot Rod oil, Brad Penn, Lucas, Amsoil, etc. (Personally, I do this for ALL engines with new flat tappet cams.)
With any flat tappet cam, be sure to vary the engine speed between, let's say, 1800-2200 RPM for the first 20 minutes of run time. This will ensure all the cam lobes get plenty of oil splashed on them. Don't let the engine idle during that time, if at all possible. Set the timing, idle speed, mixture, etc. later.
But don't take my word for it. Simply google "ZDDP flat tappet cam" and you'll find hundreds of papers and discussions by industry experts, including professional engine builders and cam companies.
