Broken Front Driveline CV Joint on K10/K1500

[78shortandwide]

So while playing in the snow today this happened. Anyone know how to stop this from happening?

 

[78shortandwide]

no it in the front drive line from the transfer case to the front axle. Its the ball joint in the middle of the constant velocity joint.

 

[HotRodPC]

no it in the front drive line from the transfer case to the front axle. Its the ball joint in the middle of the constant velocity joint.

Ahhh OK. I know exactly what you're talking about now. That's why it looked familiar. NO, never had that happen but obviously it can. I'd say it can be prevented though. Maybe. Rock Auto has a kit for that joint that should be replaced when you do your U-joints. I'll see if I can dig it up. Had that part been replaced at the right time, it could have prevented the carnage.

 

[HotRodPC]

Here is a pic of the maintainence kit. It's $19 at RockAuto.com
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=356906

And here is what it's called.
ACDELCO Part # 45U0750 More Information About this Part {#89029390}
SEAT KIT,Prop Shaft JT BALL -; w/4WD; FRONT SHAFT CV AT TRANSFER CASE

 

[78shortandwide]

this is actually the second one to do this, i think that when my front axle is at full droop the angle is too much for it. I might need to gte a high angle front drive line.

 

[78shortandwide]

Here is a pic of the maintainence kit. It's $19 at RockAuto.com
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=356906

And here is what it's called.
ACDELCO Part # 45U0750 More Information About this Part {#89029390}
SEAT KIT,Prop Shaft JT BALL -; w/4WD; FRONT SHAFT CV AT TRANSFER CASE

So this is rebuildable them

 

[HotRodPC]

this is actually the second one to do this, i think that when my front axle is at full droop the angle is too much for it. I might need to gte a high angle front drive line.

And you might be right, cuz you do have a lift kit don't you??? I changed the title to your thread so that someone skimming will get involved. C4 likely has an idea for a correction. He made a front driveline out of square tubing with unlimited travel and never broke that part since. If he don't chime in, ask him about it.

 

[HotRodPC]

So this is rebuildable them

Provided the CV joint hard parts aren't broke, then yes, that kit I posted is to maintain the joint to keep any slop out of the joint and keep it tight and good spring tension at the ball joint.

 

[78shortandwide]

well as you can see in the first pic the top lip of the cup is broke, so i think ill have to get a new drive line

 

[HotRodPC]

You're probably right. But, for next time, If you don't do a modified shaft for your lift/droop situation, now you know there is a kit to maintain that joint. Do you need the whole driveline or can it be just the CV joint portion? On my 85 I think I can replace just the CV portion.

 

[78shortandwide]

i can get a cv part at the junk yard. LMC sells a whole drive line for 320.00
I had this drive line built for this lift at a drive line shop back when i put the lift on

 

[crazy4offroad]

You have a few options. Option 1 you can ditch the front output flange/double cardan joint altogether, find a front output yoke from an NP203 76 or older model, and have a straight shaft made at a driveline shop. I made one out of square tubing, pics are in my album "various mods" and some info about it somewhere in my build thread. The drawback is your limited to at max a 1330 u-joint with the NP203 front output yoke. I think this only works for 203/205s though.

Option 2 is similar to option 1 except you put a F*ord NP205 front output shaft in your t-case so you can run a 32-splin yoke, which opens up your options for the 1350 yoke or even the massive 1410 yoke if you can make the x-member mods to run it. I have this output shaft and will be getting around to doing this mod later this year. Again, I think this is only for 203/205 t-cases.

Option 3 is what I would like to do down the road, I consider it the "best kept secret" of the offroad community. Find the front driveshaft from an 05-up Dodge 2500. It has 1350 heavy duty u-joints, and a 35+ degree running angle. It has a double cardan joint like what you're running now, and will bolt to the flange you have on the t-case. You will however have to have the length cut to fit, and if you want the 1350 joint at the front axle you'll have to get a 1350 yoke for the 10bolt/dana44 whatever you're running up front. This should work for any t-case that has the flange-style front output.

Alternatively, certain 1-tons have the front output yoke that has a certain style double cardan joint that bolts to it. They have heavy-duty joints but are harder to find, and works pretty much exclusively for the NP203/205.

If anyone sees any errors about t-case compatability, correct me, I dont have experience with 208s and 241s.

 

[78shortandwide]

Thanks for the info Crazy. I think ill see if i can find a drive line from a dodge at the Junk yard. Last time i had the front drive lne done at the drive line shop it cost like 90 bucks.

 

[buRRp]

Very good info about the front shaft. I am needing to do something with mine also.

 

[dirtroadoutlaw]

Get a rear double-cardan from a caddy or the like. I got a double, double cardan 3r shaft out of a caddy for $15 at pull-a+part

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Came from a '69 deville. You can actually massage on these with a grinder a little & achieve enough clearance. There is no need in spending that much money for a front DS bro. If you need any help in this area, give me shout. I don't want to see you spend money you don't have to. Spend it on some other goodies instead.