breaking in rotors?

[78 K-10]

hey guys, just got summit brand drilled and slotted rotors for the front of the k10. and my friend just got some rotors for his chevy and he mentioned the break in process. he said accerlerate to 40 then slowly break down to 10 then repeat like 10 times. is this a good idea? i got new pads too.. also im just about to put the truck up on stands so any tips would be nice. seems pretty easy tho. and i got some hi tempdisc break "bearing grease" would this be ok to lube my caliper bolts with? the brake and caliper grease was like freakin 24 bucks and this was 6. also what does grease on the caliper bolts do? do the calipers slide on them? thanks brothers!

 

[78 K-10]

holy crap do i have to take apart my hubs??

 

[78 K-10]

ok so im gonna do some research. but maybe someone can off the top of their head give me a step by step in rotor swap.. including the removal of my hub assembly. I have manual lockout hubs. do i need to get new seals? what kind? and parts i need to replace and should i repack my bearings-probly how do i go about that. thanks guys

 

[Jims86]

ok so im gonna do some research. but maybe someone can off the top of their head give me a step by step in rotor swap.. including the removal of my hub assembly. I have manual lockout hubs. do i need to get new seals? what kind? and parts i need to replace and should i repack my bearings-probly how do i go about that. thanks guys

The rotors will have to be pressd off the hubs. to get the hubbs off, you need a large 4 prong spindle nut socket. Your local parts store should have one, its not expensive at all.

 

[bucket]

The rotors don't need pressed off of the hubs, they are just held onto the hubs by the wheel studs. You can knock them out with a sledge hammer, with some cheap lug nuts threaded on to protect the threads.

 

[Camo]

Umm that depends on the truck. I am guessint it is a 4x4 with a solid front axle. They dont just come off with a hammer.

OP post up the specs on the truck your asking about.

 

[smurph20]

I think Bucket was refering to knockin out the studs to seperate the hub from the rotor

 

[bucket]

I think Bucket was refering to knockin out the studs to seperate the hub from the rotor

Yes.

 

[clkelley]

As for breaking in the rotors, you should not have to do that. Especially if the pads you are installing are "Pre-scorched". Breaking in the pads shouldn't be necessary unless you got the cheap lifetime pads from say Carquest. They are lifetime because they are an extremely hard metallic pad that will glaze over and lose firmness if they get hot before the "break in", but with the drilled and slotted rotors you shouldn't even have that issue.

 

[bucket]

As for breaking in the rotors, you should not have to do that. Especially if the pads you are installing are "Pre-scorched". Breaking in the pads shouldn't be necessary unless you got the cheap lifetime pads from say Carquest. They are lifetime because they are an extremely hard metallic pad that will glaze over and lose firmness if they get hot before the "break in", but with the drilled and slotted rotors you shouldn't even have that issue.

What's your take on cleaning off new rotors? We had some NAPA brake rep come into the shop a while back and he said not to use brake cleaner and a rag, he said to use soapy water and a rag. I thought it sounded bogus, but gave it a try on my own truck. The truck could not make a quick stop for a good three days or so. I used Wagner thermoquiet pads as I have been with my other vehicles lately, this is the only time I've had trouble like this.

 

[towman]

all of the experts say to use hot soapy water to clean new rotors and rotors that were turned, i just use brake clean as i have been for the last 30 years

 

[clkelley]

What's your take on cleaning off new rotors? We had some NAPA brake rep come into the shop a while back and he said not to use brake cleaner and a rag, he said to use soapy water and a rag. I thought it sounded bogus, but gave it a try on my own truck. The truck could not make a quick stop for a good three days or so. I used Wagner thermoquiet pads as I have been with my other vehicles lately, this is the only time I've had trouble like this.

I personally recommend brake cleaner, I have used it on every set of rotors I have ever installed except for one set and that set I used hot soapy water and like stated above, I didn't have good reliable braking until days after the install.

That being said, the hot soapy water theory may have something to do with regular types of rotors that aren't coated? Not sure on that one, but if you purchase rotors that are coated with corrosion resistant coatings then it shouldn't matter, the coating protects the metal.

 

[78 K-10]

well boys, were all installed. i did use lots of brake cleaner on my rotors after i finally got it all back together. the guys from the machine shop have greasy hands. I also thoroughly cleaned my spindle and inside my hub. I bought that stupid bearing packer from napa that pushes the old grease out. granted it kinda sucks. i did have to get myself some snap ring plyers and picks. got everything back together the "proper" way and guess what, i swear, my truck freakin stops better than most cars ive driven. sooo smooth and responsive. and it feels like im rolling better with all my bearings repacked!

 

[clkelley]

well boys, were all installed. i did use lots of brake cleaner on my rotors after i finally got it all back together. the guys from the machine shop have greasy hands. I also thoroughly cleaned my spindle and inside my hub. I bought that stupid bearing packer from napa that pushes the old grease out. granted it kinda sucks. i did have to get myself some snap ring plyers and picks. got everything back together the "proper" way and guess what, i swear, my truck freakin stops better than most cars ive driven. sooo smooth and responsive. and it feels like im rolling better with all my bearings repacked!

Outstanding! Nice to hear about good results indeed!