Anything else needed for 241c rebuild?

[flyboy1100]

I ordered a timken kit from rock auto, http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1118925&cc=1301184

Is there anything rise i need?

The only thing that looked bad on mine was the front output bearing was rusted, a bunch of broken plastic (shift pads i think), and a bunch of large metal pieces i can't figure the origination of. And speedo drive gears ate melted bad.

Chain is tight, all gears look excellent, the metal fragments are disconcerting unless there was a previous rebuild and the didn't clean it

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[flyboy1100]

Found where the metal is coming from..... Darn. Only that looks bad, chain does have a bit of slop, but not too bad. Might have to choose my battle here.

The other one at the same yard was in a bit worse condition on the exterior, not sure on inside other then sand and dirt in the oil pump housing because the speedo gear and cover were removed from it. Since this case is junk in the current condition maybe i can get them to just give me the other one

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[flyboy1100]

Ordered fork 17025(16342-b) i hope it is the right one.

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[HotRodPC]

It is normal for the chain to have a little droop in it. Bearings, gaskets and seals is about it unless you need the forks or chain. .

 

[flyboy1100]

it looks like there is a little bit of droop in the chain, but not excessive. the fork is confusing, i think i ordered the right one, but i'm not 100% sure

 

[flyboy1100]

how do i remove this bearing?

 

[HotRodPC]

That appears to be the type that is knocked in and out with a bushing driver type tool. That one appears to be in good shape though. Are the rollers round or are they getting flat looking? If they're round should be good. You'd have to destroy it to get it out, and carefully push or tap the new one in.

 

[flyboy1100]

That appears to be the type that is knocked in and out with a bushing driver type tool. That one appears to be in good shape though. Are the rollers round or are they getting flat looking? If they're round should be good. You'd have to destroy it to get it out, and carefully push or tap the new one in.

They appear round, but don't roll well. Should be a new one in my rebuild kit i think.

Ive been having a shop help me with pressing on carrier/pinion bearings for the rear end, i will ask them if they can get it. I don't have a puller that will fit behind it

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[MadOgre]

If you can move 2 links in and out at the pin then it is worn and should be replaced cause it will bind on the drive gears and cause excessive metal wear which will contaminate every thing and then it will go bang!

 

[MadOgre]

would definitely make them give you the other case for free. You might luck out and it will be in great shape inside. Use the best of each to make one good one.

A small bearing/bushing puller is needed for those in set bearings

 

[flyboy1100]

If you can move 2 links in and out at the pin then it is worn and should be replaced cause it will bind on the drive gears and cause excessive metal wear which will contaminate every thing and then it will go bang!

Was just thinking that. Going to order a chain hv025 i believe is the number.

I brought the case half in the get the bearing pulled. I couldn't find a small enough puller to do it myself. They beat it out, and it wasn't pretty but should be fine.

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[MadOgre]

Oh really! yikes lol. Good call on the chain. How do all the teeth on the gears look ? The drive gear teeth should look symmetrical with no fish hooking at the tips.

I had to change the input and range hub selector gear when I did mine cause the synchro teeth were worn

 

[flyboy1100]

i think the gears look ok. the oil pump has some scoring where the gear rides.

There is maybe .001" play between the chain links

is there only one dowel/bushing pressed into the case, or is there 2 and i somehow lost one?

 

[MadOgre]

I would go and get that other case and see if it looks any better inside

 

[flyboy1100]

I am, after close inspection the rear housing has a crack in it where it was obviously dropped at some point

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