AC Compressor Change - Accumulator/Orifice Tube Criticality

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creich68

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Hello All! New kid on the block, but not new to the 91 Suburban in the garage. I am the fortunate new-ish owner of the Suburban my parents bought new in 91. So many family trip memories that I had to keep it in the family. Being stored indoors it's whole life, it has been preserved well, especially after the deep cleaning/ceramic coating this past fall:

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After sitting in a barn for many years and before driving it back from MO to NC, the local shop in MO charged the AC system in September. The charge lasted most of the fall (converted to R134a about ~8 years prior). I wasn't surprised that it had a slow leak somewhere so I took it to a new local shop near me in NC around mid May of this year to diagnose the leak and charge. Shop discovered that the ports leaked, replaced both, charged and said it was good to go....The freon leaked out in 4 weeks....

Second trip to local NC shop in mid June, they found a leak in the hose assembly that connects to the compressor. Said there was a hole in the hose that looked like it was spraying on the compressor (but according to them it was not there a month prior). They did not feel the compressor was leaking. System charged and out the door I go....2 weeks later I was under the front end looking at steering components, and noticed freon/dye on the crossmember and traced it to the back side of the compressor. Not only was it leaking, but I could hear a slight sizzle from the back side of the compressor (like it was bleeding off pressure from the system). I was on the path to a Sanden conversion when I stumbled upon a brand new AC Delco/GM Genuine compressor for $225, so I thought, let's give a new R4 a chance.

Reluctantly took it back to the same shop to diagnose the freon on the back side of the compressor. Mentioned that I tracked down a AC Delco compressor so if the original Harrison unit needs to be replaced, let's move forward with the new one. Also requested that the accumulator and orifice tube be changed out so the compressor warranty would be intact. I get a call 3.5 hours later that the compressor had been swapped but that they did not replace the accumulator/orifice tube (said it was not needed and refused to replace them). Needless to say the shop and I have parted ways due to poor communication and not standing behind their work on other occasions.

I say all of this to get the input from the many AC compressor threads I've read - seems like the common advice is always replace the accumulator/orifice tube anytime the compressor is changed since it's cheap parts while the system is already open. The question I have to you all is - should I find another shop to open the system back up to replace those parts, or roll the dice? I will say that my original Harrison unit was quiet and functioning correctly, just leaking freon (freon was clean and no debris noted in the system when they evacuated it for the work). I don't mind spending the money at another shop to have it installed if that means the best chance for the new compressor to survive.

I also kept the original Harrison because it was leaking where the new hose assembly bolted to the back, and still functioning. I think the technician might have used the wrong orings when the hose assembly was installed on the second trip, but that's a story for another time...I was also amused when the shop said they wouldn't replace the orifice tube because they had to take the grill apart to replace it at the condenser. I could be wrong but my original GM service manual shows the orifice tube in the line feeding into the front evaporator :disgust:

I've learned a lot about AC systems from this forum over the last couple weeks. THANK YOU ALL for that education so far!
 

gmbellew

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If the compressor hadn't fried yet, and was just leaking, it may be fine. Does the line get frozen where the orifice tube is? That would indicate a clog if so.
 

Finkaire

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Okay, if it is a single system the orifice tube is located in the condenser, if a dual system, in line. It’s always a good idea to replace the accumulator in that it contains celicate bags that can rupture and contaminate the entire system. Orifice tubes can be stubborn coming out and rather than breaking it you may consider leaving it alone. The charge on retrofit typically won’t last as long as a R12 charge… so you may consider replacing the accumulator next time. PS the OE compressor was a good call IMHO
 

creich68

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If the compressor hadn't fried yet, and was just leaking, it may be fine. Does the line get frozen where the orifice tube is? That would indicate a clog if so.
Doesn't appear to freeze so I'm leaning towards that it's operating correctly.

Okay, if it is a single system the orifice tube is located in the condenser, if a dual system, in line. It’s always a good idea to replace the accumulator in that it contains celicate bags that can rupture and contaminate the entire system. Orifice tubes can be stubborn coming out and rather than breaking it you may consider leaving it alone. The charge on retrofit typically won’t last as long as a R12 charge… so you may consider replacing the accumulator next time. PS the OE compressor was a good call IMHO

It's a dual AC system with rear AC. Agreed, the desiccate bags are my main concern, especially being original. That's why I asked them to replace it when replacing the compressor.

Good point on the orifice tube. I was hoping they would remove it to inspect it for any possible debris, and if a flush was needed. If/when the system needs another charge, the accumulator will definitely be replace then.

I know none of the "new" compressors will last as long as the original Harrison unit, but I figured I had the best bet with the AC Delco vs. other brands.

Nice clean Suburban

Thank you! 178k miles and still going! It's been fun cataloging all of the documentation. My parents literally kept all of the paperwork since new. Parts/service receipts, window sticker, invoice, dealer delivery/inspection sheets, etc. All protected in a binder now.
 

PeteJr

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Good lookin' 'Burb, Clay.
Good on you for keeping the family vehicle and fortunate to have all the documentation.
Welcome to the forum from another NC feller.
 

creich68

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Good lookin' 'Burb, Clay.
Good on you for keeping the family vehicle and fortunate to have all the documentation.
Welcome to the forum from another NC feller.

Thank you PeteJr! It's a fun vehicle to tinker with, despite the cussing/busted knuckles during tinkering haha!
 

spedigo

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Okay, if it is a single system the orifice tube is located in the condenser, if a dual system, in line. It’s always a good idea to replace the accumulator in that it contains celicate bags that can rupture and contaminate the entire system. Orifice tubes can be stubborn coming out and rather than breaking it you may consider leaving it alone. The charge on retrofit typically won’t last as long as a R12 charge… so you may consider replacing the accumulator next time. PS the OE compressor was a good call IMHO
about to start repairing my own system on my 79. not sure about viability of my compressor as i’ve only had the truck a couple months (how to test compressor?).
system was previously converted to 134.

anyway, what are the pros on cons of an upgraded compressor vs the original style?
 

Finkaire

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Either way, assuming you are going to charge system with 134a, drain the compressor and refill with an Ester oil to prevent corrosion of the evaporator. You can rotate a compressor on the bench but you cannot check for leaks, everything on the system is rated at 500psi
 

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