86 C10 Will Not Crank

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86putang

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Ryan
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1986
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C10
Engine Size
305
hey Guys, new member here so hopefully you can help me out. Got an 86’ Chevy, 305, automatic w/ 132k original miles. Truck has run like a top until the other morning. Started up as usual and did my morning rounds to a couple job sites. Stopped in for a construction meeting and pulled into a spot for 3 minutes until the GC said move it. Went to turn the key and NOTHING. I have since been through hell and back and have replaced the alternator, starter, ignition cylinder, ignition switch and the battery is fine. All fusible links are good and have good continuity on all grounds and power where it should be on key turns. Does ANYONE have ANY ideas as to what I could be overlooking? PLEASE, PLEASE throw some things at me. I just can’t bring myself to put it into the shop but I need my wheels back! HELP!!
 

82sbshortbed

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:welcome:
 

animal

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:welcome:
1st 2 questions: 1) are you getting fire to the plugs when cranked over? 2) are you getting fuel to the carb?
 

86putang

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It won’t even crank over! That’s my problem!
 

animal

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86putang

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I’m assuming so. (I know I should never assume anything) I can turn the key to run and bump it with a screw driver to get it running. Just won’t turn the starter with the key. I believe I have tested everything and voltage is going where it needs to go. My initial thought was the ignition switch Because it didn’t feel as if the key was turning all the way forward to start but after a new one of those AND a key cylinder it still won’t crank over. Is there a specific procedure I should follow to see if I am getting voltage to the starter??
 

idahovette

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Neutral safety switch?
 

chengny

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I’m assuming so. (I know I should never assume anything) I can turn the key to run and bump it with a screw driver to get it running. Just won’t turn the starter with the key. I believe I have tested everything and voltage is going where it needs to go. My initial thought was the ignition switch Because it didn’t feel as if the key was turning all the way forward to start but after a new one of those AND a key cylinder it still won’t crank over. Is there a specific procedure I should follow to see if I am getting voltage to the starter??

There is no specific procedure for diagnosing this issue. Just use your meter/test probe and good engineering practices.

The starter solenoid control circuit is real simple. When the ignition switch is moved to the START position, power is supplied to the solenoid on a single lead (purple 6). You have an automatic transmission, so there are no safety switches in that purple 6 circuit. Since you have changed (and properly adjusted?) the ignition switch as well as the starter/solenoid group, it would be safe to assume that neither of those is the problem.

Essentially, that only leaves continuity on the purple 6 lead as questionable.

The purple 6 circuit actually consists of two sections of wire. The first section runs from the ignition switch to the cab side of the main bulkhead connector. On the engine side, there is another section runs directly from the connector to the "S" terminal on the solenoid.

How to determine if the purple 6 circuit is truly the problem is a personal choice. You can:

1. Have a helper turn the key to start and test for power at the solenoid's "S" terminal.

2. Have the same helper turn the key to start while you check for power on the engine side of the bulkhead connector

3. Start at the ignition switch and check for power out of it - and then work the other way towards the solenoid.

What I would not suggest is checking for voltage on the cab side of the connector. Only do that as a last resort. To access the purple 6 there requires pulling the fuse block.

The purple 6 lead transits the connector block as indicated in the image below (3rd row down, middle bay). It won't look like that - because the engine side plug will be in place. But the location will be the same.

You must be registered for see images attach


Another possible initial diagnostic test would be to run a temporary switched jumper straight from the battery positive to the solenoid's "S" terminal. If the starter cranks right up when the switch is closed...then start tearing into the purple 6 circuit.
 

86putang

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Wow, I cannot express how much I appreciate the time and effort you put into this reply! I will get to work and let you know what I find out! Thank you again!
 

Snoots

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I can turn the key to run and bump it with a screw driver to get it running

Bump what with a screwdriver? The starter?
Likely the solenoid is bad.
 

86putang

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1986
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C10
Engine Size
305
BACK IN BUSINESS!!

Just went through all connections, tested continuity on all wires and everything came back legit. Put a jump on it and REALLY had to twist the key far but she came alive! After adjusting the ignition switch into proper position she fires right up with the flick of the wrist. Thank you all so much for your help and recommendations.

Squarebody or nothin
 

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