700r4 getting hot.

[Dutch Rutter]

Of course I'm posting this after I said my trans has been problem free..

Few weeks ago I tackled the trans pan leak on my 700r4. New gasket, new steel stock depth pan, and while I was in there I put in a new filter. Topped it up with fluid and have been driving it like normal to and from work. Yesterday I felt it was not pulling as strong as it used to so I checked out the trans fluid. level was good but it was a pretty dark red color definitely not what I was expecting since it is newer fluid.

So today I drained and re filled the trans with brand new fluid, ran the cooler lines to my add on cooler instead of though the radiator, added my trans temp gauge and took it for a drive. About 20 minutes on the free way 65-70mph with a decent hill in the middle and I notice my temp of the trans climbing pretty consistently. When I got done with my drive as the picture shows the temp (Bottom left) was reading pretty high. This was even after driving with my high CFM spall fan turned on plus its only 49 outside.

So did I mess something up when I was doing the filter and such? The fluid always looked fine before just had a small leak. Or am I at the beginning of a long and expensive road to a new or rebuilt transmission?

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[Dutch Rutter]

This is what the fluid looked like yesterday.

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[yevgenievich]

Was the filter installed with new oring without removing old one?

 

[74 Shortbed]

What rpm are you running at that speed??, was the converter locked up???.

 

[Dutch Rutter]

Was the filter installed with new oring without removing old one?

New o ring yes and made sure to get the old one out. It did take quite a bit of effort. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1892r this is the filter I used. Could have sworn I got the WIX one but this was on my order history.

What rpm are you running at that speed??, was the converter locked up???.

it was only sitting at 2200-2500 which is normal for the truck. I'm assuming it was locked up, since it was not searching around gears and I wasn't smashing the pedal.

Also my TV cable is all adjusted. Temp sending unit is in the test port on the trans as well.

@yevgenievich You could answer this for me. I was thinking maybe I didn't get the gauge wired correctly. on the back of it (while looking at the back of the gauge) top stud is power, left is ground and right stud is to the sending unit?

 

[Dutch Rutter]

Maybe I got a bad filter? is that actually a possibility?

 

[74 Shortbed]

it was only sitting at 2200-2500 which is normal for the truck. I'm assuming it was locked up, since it was not searching around gears and I wasn't smashing the pedal.

OK, just wondered because at that speed rpm's can be pretty low(in mine it would anyhow)and if you run in OD under the stall speed without the converter locked up it will get hot fairly quick, you can tell when the converter locks up, it seems like it shifts into another gear.

 

[Dutch Rutter]

OK, just wondered because at that speed rpm's can be pretty low(in mine it would anyhow)and if you run in OD under the stall speed without the converter locked up it will get hot fairly quick, you can tell when the converter locks up, it seems like it shifts into another gear.

Gotcha, hell I'm up for anything that can get this thing figured out. That is with the trans in D and honestly i don't know a while lot about transmissions especially this one. Well I believe it was locked up however, I don't recall it shifting up again. Could be I just didn't notice it.

 

[yevgenievich]

The wiring correct, just make sure that the water temp sender wire is disconnected while using it for trans temp. It should have selection for drive and overdrive. It can get hot if left in drive under the stall speed

New o ring yes and made sure to get the old one out. It did take quite a bit of effort. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1892r this is the filter I used. Could have sworn I got the WIX one but this was on my order history.



it was only sitting at 2200-2500 which is normal for the truck. I'm assuming it was locked up, since it was not searching around gears and I wasn't smashing the pedal.

Also my TV cable is all adjusted. Temp sending unit is in the test port on the trans as well.

@yevgenievich You could answer this for me. I was thinking maybe I didn't get the gauge wired correctly. on the back of it (while looking at the back of the gauge) top stud is power, left is ground and right stud is to the sending unit?

 

[74 Shortbed]

Gotcha, hell I'm up for anything that can get this thing figured out. That is with the trans in D and honestly i don't know a while lot about transmissions especially this one. Well I believe it was locked up however, I don't recall it shifting up again. Could be I just didn't notice it.

Which "D" first one or second one??, if you were in the one next to second you were not in OD, and converter not locked up, but at 2500r's you're above the stall speed and shouldn't get hot..

 

[Dutch Rutter]

Well now this is interesting.. Mine only has D 3 2 1

Should I grab a new filter and replace it again? Since that is the only thing that has changed besides my pan I'm kinda leaning towards that.

 

[bucket]

What's the gear ratio and tire size?

 

[Dutch Rutter]

I believe the gears to be 3:73s and I'm currently using 33x12.5x16.5 soon to be 305x70x16.

Now here is another thought @yevgenievich I was reading up on the gauge post you made about how they function.. How I wired this one up, I ran a jumper from the power stud on the back of my current water temp gauge to the power stud on the now trans temp gauge, I did the same for the ground but then ran a wire from the gauge to the sending unit. By reading how they function could it be that the ground from the other gauge is causing the "zero magnet" to not pull as much as it should?

 

[yevgenievich]

It is correct, later one's had OD21, which is What I was thinking of. Double check that it does lock up before dropping pan again

Well now this is interesting.. Mine only has D 3 2 1

Should I grab a new filter and replace it again? Since that is the only thing that has changed besides my pan I'm kinda leaning towards that.

 

[yevgenievich]

Ground should be ok because it goes to body ground. I would more question the gauge it self and the sender. Would be a good test to boil water and put sender in the boiling water to check what it shows. On mine trans and engine almost equal with trans slightly lower most of the time. Follows logic as I have trans line going to the radiator and then separate cooler.

I believe the gears to be 3:73s and I'm currently using 33x12.5x16.5 soon to be 305x70x16.

Now here is another thought @yevgenievich I was reading up on the gauge post you made about how they function.. How I wired this one up, I ran a jumper from the power stud on the back of my current water temp gauge to the power stud on the now trans temp gauge, I did the same for the ground but then ran a wire from the gauge to the sending unit. By reading how they function could it be that the ground from the other gauge is causing the "zero magnet" to not pull as much as it should?