4L80-E Computer Operation Options / Manual Valve Body

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HotRodPC

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I believe the ThermoQuad junkster preceeded the Qjet E4ME in the Doges. oops, did I forget the d? I think NOT !!!
 

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If the M/C Solenoid is there, it must be used.

Yeah...thats what I was thinking. Are there any models with the TPS, that do not have the M/C?
I looked hi and low for one....gave up and started doing what is in the pic I posted.
 

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Apparently not...As the illustrations above show. At least no in a GM...I don't know about Dodges.
 

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Yeah...thats what I was thinking. Are there any models with the TPS, that do not have the M/C?
I looked hi and low for one....gave up and started doing what is in the pic I posted.

That's why I changed mine out. There was no M/C control. I think someone just found a carb, bolt it on and it started. But it was a gutless wonder with that carb. Changed to a non ECM carb and all the difference in the world. You'd think it would only affect idle, but it seemed to me that it affected WOT even worse.
 

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That's why I changed mine out. There was no M/C control. I think someone just found a carb, bolt it on and it started. But it was a gutless wonder with that carb. Changed to a non ECM carb and all the difference in the world. You'd think it would only affect idle, but it seemed to me that it affected WOT even worse.

except for part throttle cruise, they are regular qjets. The El Camino forums have been posting up some impressive **** after really fine tuning with different jets and rods. i think there was another problem with yours, all the electronic carb stuff shuts down at WOT, and there are no solenoid controls for the secondaries.
 

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This will be an interesting thread to follow... I've been debating on upgrading to the 4L80E... :popcorn:

As for the M/C on the E4MEs... I think they can be deleted with a few modifications, but I'd have to go back through my books to see what else would need to be done besides blocking off the hole in the top plate of the carb after you took out the solenoid.
 

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This info was given to me recently. It appears Optishift has now became USShift.com. The prices on these aftermarket controllers are finally getting reasonable. Appears the controller is $150. I'd imagine there is a charge for the harness too. For awhile there, it seemed Compushift was about the only one and it was $1000-$1200 for the controller kit. Then Optishift came about and it seems prices were about $800 or so. If it can be kept under $250-$200, I'd call that getting real finally.

http://www.usshift.com/
 

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This info was given to me recently. It appears Optishift has now became USShift.com. The prices on these aftermarket controllers are finally getting reasonable. Appears the controller is $150. I'd imagine there is a charge for the harness too. For awhile there, it seemed Compushift was about the only one and it was $1000-$1200 for the controller kit. Then Optishift came about and it seems prices were about $800 or so. If it can be kept under $250-$200, I'd call that getting real finally.

http://www.usshift.com/

DOH, I take it all back. So I was told wrong. I went to pricing. It's $450 for the controller, then it's $150 for just the wiring kit, so it's $600. Still to high for my blood. How much can it possibly cost to make this thing??? Someday they might realize, they'd sell the living piss out of these things if the price got right.
 

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We could always create our own monster of a controller as long as someone is willing to test it out just in case it starts grenading trannies. lol

I remember trying to figure out what it would take to make one for the 4T65HD which was in my Grand Prix... Pretty simple as far as which solenoids to energize/de-energize, but more complicated when it comes to timing it all and then getting it to do it when you wanted. Scared me silly actually...

On the other hand... If you wanted push button gear selection, that might not be too bad. ;)
 

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I really wasn't to worried about a controller. I have a 4L80-E ready to install. Of course I'd like to go thru it and replace the seals and clutches, and any worn bushings, thrust washers and torrington bearings as needed first.
I just figured I'd be running it in a street/strip truck with some 4.56 or 4.88 gears and a ratchet shifter and would run a full manual valve body. Thinking something that would run 12's in the quarter but still be able to drive it on the freeway.
 

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That sounds cool... I'm not sure how I'd mind a full manual valve body. I'm just trying to get over the sticker shock of just the tranny atm... Contemplating going with an overdrive unit that I can bolt to the back of the TH400, but those are expensive too.
 

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That sounds cool... I'm not sure how I'd mind a full manual valve body. I'm just trying to get over the sticker shock of just the tranny atm... Contemplating going with an overdrive unit that I can bolt to the back of the TH400, but those are expensive too.

Those Gear Vendors are very expensive, not to mention all the mods and butchering. Crossmembers, driveshafts and such. Likley better just to suck it up and go with a 4L80-E if you were to do that.
 

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