1968 1.94 fuelers? ideas

[cupp_cody]

So I ran across a set of 68 fuelers and a gen 1 torqer manafold. Any ideas how to build them I want to run a good size cam but not massive because its in a blazer I have one of the 330 or 300 horse gm crate that im going to use with it im hoping to get another 100 horse power. So any comments and what works good or what doesn't with building these heads to get the most power and torqe?

 

[cupp_cody]

 

[crazy4offroad]

Everything I've seen points towards selling them to someone restoring an old car/truck and picking up a set of Vortec heads instead...
http://www.onedirt.com/tech-stories/engine/a-guide-to-vortec-vs-oe-small-block-chevy-heads/
Don't mean to shoot down your plans, but it looks like you can just bolt the Vortecs on and gain 50+HP where you would have to have a lot of work done to the older ones to make the same power. Check out some of the flow charts on that link, you get better flow at lower lift which will allow you to run a cam with a little more overlap with less lift, and have a lot less in valvetrain work. I'm sure others will chime in later, just be patient!

 

[f1shman]

Crazy4 is right. Machine work quickly adds up when you are trying to update older cylinder heads, especially so when the history of the heads is unknown. If I was looking to get some heads refurbished, I would expect to do at least the following at the machine shop:

Clean, inspect and manaflux the heads
Install new valve guides
Install hardened exhaust seats for unleaded fuel
New valves with multi-angle valve cut
Have gasket surfaces checked and machined flat
New screw in rocker studs and thread the head to accept them
New valve springs, seals and retainers

Just with that you are probably looking at $700 in charges and you haven't even gotten them ported, polished or gasket matched yet. Your best bang for your buck would be to put the money you were looking at spending at the machine shop into a set of vortecs with a vortec style intake manifold and a set of 1.6 roller rocker arms. That combo will make good power back from your investment.

 

[cupp_cody]

Ya that's not a bad idea. How much do you think these heads would be worth there not in that bad of shape. ?

 

[HotRodPC]

I didn't read all the posts, other than everything leans toward selling them to a restoration project who want correct #'s. I agree. Fuely heads are OLD technology now. Go with Vortecs. Also avoid the Torker maninfold that is a single plane intake. You need a dual plane for mpg and low end hp and torque. Go with an Edelbrock Performer RPM for a small block and a mild cam.

 

[crazy4offroad]

Ya that's not a bad idea. How much do you think these heads would be worth there not in that bad of shape. ?

I would just clean them up if they need it, shoot a little paint on them and list them for $600. That's a deal for anyone looking for those exact heads, you'll just have to turn some people down till you get the right person. Also take them to car shows/swap meets, you'll turn them pretty quick at a place like that but expect to be haggled with!!

 

[cupp_cody]

Ya im only 50 into them ha

 

[HotRodPC]

Yikes, now days, I think $600 is pretty steep for those. Even someone wanting them for restoration isn't likely to pay that, cuz there are people out there dumping them for $200 a set as cores, so maybe $325-$350 if they are in good useable shape ready to bolt on. JMO though. You can always sit on them and lower your price accordingly. Maybe look for a set on eBay taking shipping cost into consideration too and see what people are willing to pay for them. I quit looking for them years ago cuz they don't have the bolt holes for one, and secondly, the Vortec heads is what I want.

 

[Manbearpig]

I picked up a set of bare Vortecs for $75

 

[HotRodPC]

I picked up a set of bare Vortecs for $75

That's not a bad price at all for Vortecs, but althogh $75 does sound cheap, when you start buying valves, springs, locks, retainers etc, the cost will get on up there. Although, then of course they may as well then be considered brand new heads at that point too, so its still a helluva deal.

Back to your double humps Cody.... I'm guess you missed it by a year, I am a bit rusty now on the dates, but do your 68 heads have the accesoryy holes in the front and rear of them? If so, that in itself, will bring the value of those heads up significantly cuz they can also be used on later model engines set ups and it makes them more desireable. I have a feeling its 69 though when the accesory holes came about.

 

[cupp_cody]

Ill check them out tonight I haven't got the chance to start playing with them a whole lot yet. A guy told me I can use mopar exhast valves to get more flow because there 1.70 s he said they will fit right in there.

 

[HotRodPC]

Ill check them out tonight I haven't got the chance to start playing with them a whole lot yet. A guy told me I can use mopar exhast valves to get more flow because there 1.70 s he said they will fit right in there.

Yes, provided you have the valve seats opened up to accept the valves. I'm assuming since he suggested that the stem heights are the same. I'd never heard of using NoPwr valves in a Chevy heads, but I woudln't be suprised.

 

[cupp_cody]

Ya even if they will work im not super hot on the idea of dodge garbage on my chev

 

[HotRodPC]

I don't like using Ford parts on GM either, but there are a few that work better. Like a Ford 460 2pc rear main, works better on an Olds 455 rope seal rear main.
Also on Turbo 400's, there is a dogbone wedge sprag that can be used in the low one way roller clutch. Very exepnsive and hard to find at GM dealers since it was only used in 64 & 65 transmissions, but Ford uses the same one in some of their more common transmissions. So occasionally, if you see a dude walking on a Ford lot to the parts counter with a paper bag over his head, it might be me. Damn sure wouldn't want anyone to see me there.