Electric Locks Completely Dead

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

geocrasher

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2018
Posts
118
Reaction score
130
Location
Northern NV
First Name
Ryan
Truck Year
1988
Truck Model
V1500
Engine Size
350
Hi all,

I have an 88 Burb with electric locks- they're dead. There was a blown 10A fuse in place, and the fuse block calls for a 20A. I replaced it with a 20A fuse. No go. Still dead. Can anyone point me at a good source for troubleshooting info? Thank you very much! :)
 

JoeR Jr

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 23, 2018
Posts
196
Reaction score
251
Location
Stokesdale, NC
First Name
Joe
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
6.0/4L80E
The pink wire on the master switch should have power with the key on. that power comes from a 30 am self resetting circuit breaker. Not a fuse.

On Edit: I'm a dummy. I somehow interpreted that as Electric Windows. Not Locks.

Joe
 
Last edited:

chengny

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2012
Posts
4,086
Reaction score
1,023
Location
NH
First Name
Jerry
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
K3500
Engine Size
350/5.7
Hi all,

I have an 88 Burb with electric locks- they're dead. There was a blown 10A fuse in place, and the fuse block calls for a 20A. I replaced it with a 20A fuse. No go. Still dead. Can anyone point me at a good source for troubleshooting info? Thank you very much! :)


First checks:

That the circuit breaker under the E socket column (far right) is good. That breaker protects all the circuits that are plugged into the E bank sockets.

Also make sure that the connector for the 60 ORN/BLK circuit is properly plugged in to one of the 3 sockets in the E column. The 60 ORN/BLK is the power supply for the P/L system:

You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach


While you are under the dash, check that the grounding/mounting bolt for the door look relay is tight - and the connection between the bracket and body is clean. The relay grounded through it's casing and will not operate if the ground path is poor. It should be mounted up by the convenience center or accelerator pedal bracket:
You must be registered for see images attach




Diagnostic procedure to follow. But don't expect much - it's pretty lame - just one step.

Here is the description of operation and the diagnostic procedure for "None Of The Door Lock Motors Lock Or Unlock"

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach
 
Last edited:

HoustonRunner

Junior Member
Joined
May 6, 2021
Posts
2
Reaction score
0
Location
Houston
First Name
Steve
Truck Year
1988
Truck Model
R10 Suburban
Engine Size
5.7L
While you are under the dash, check that the grounding/mounting bolt for the door look relay is tight - and the connection between the bracket and body is clean. The relay grounded through it's casing and will not operate if the ground path is poor. It should be mounted up by the convenience center or accelerator pedal bracket:
You must be registered for see images attach


Is there a trick to get access to that relay? I can see it above the convenience center, but the only way I can figure out how to get at it is if I remove the convenience center and associated brackets.

Is there easier access from above if I take off the instrument panel cover?

Thanks.
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
44,026
Posts
947,968
Members
36,091
Latest member
Grjmmr
Top