The problem was that you ran out of fuel. It takes a lot of cranking to get all the air out of the lines when you do that(if it ever will). You usually have to crack the fuel lines at the injector pump or the injectors themselves until you start getting diesel to pump out while cranking. Then...
Other than there being absolutely NO REASON to do so? '85 C10 should be a 10 bolt rear. It's basically identical to the 10 bolt used all the way up into the 2010's. My 2011 K1500 Suburban calls for 75-90 synthetic and I usually use this...
I bet you have the connector plugged in upside down. It's a common problem on swaps, especially with standalone harnesses. Make sure that the person that built the harness put the pins in the right spots and also that you are plugging it into the transmission in the correct orientation. Make...
Damn... I'm really tempted to go get it. I probably don't even need a trailer, just flat tow it down to salem behind the K25 with a Harbor Fright tow bar.
If it is backfiring out of the carb, you are 180 out. It was trying to fire before and not backfiring, so you just needed to turn it a bit, then try to crank it. You don't need someone else there, just turn then crank, turn then crank.
loosen the hold down bolt so that the distributor will turn with force, but not on it's own. Crank the engine while turning the distributor slightly clockwise or counterclockwise until it fires off. Once it has fired off, set the timing with a timing light.
Start simple and don't get yourself going down a rabbit hole. Check all bulbs first. Then check all grounds by actually verifying continuity to ground from the terminal itself. Every single square I have ever owned has had issues with the ground wire connection at the bulb socket itself. It will...
My other thought(if all the wiring is correct), is that a pop but no start is exactly what you would get if you have the distributor installed 180 out. If you find that you have all the wiring correct and 12v at the coil+ with the ignition on, then you should turn the engine over until you have...
Can't really tell anything from your pics. What happened to the factory wire harness IGN+ wire? A '77 model year would have been factory HEI, so you should have a solid 12v source wire right there to tie into the coil. According to the summit instructions you wire the distributor like this:
My...
1975 Model year and older does not need a smog inspection in California. They can still get hit with citations for things if you are pulled over by a cop and that can lead to other issues, but 1973 and older doesn't even have any emissions requirements under the clean air act... so they would...
I have NEVER seen a properly torqued flywheel bolt come loose. Either that mechanic hasn't had his torque wrench calibrated in too long, or he didn't do something right. Loctite needs clean threads to really work properly. What torque did the mechanic say he used? Were they just stock flywheel...
For steel, you need at least 1x the nominal thread diameter for maximum strength. 1-1/2x nominal thread diameter is even better. So for an 8-lug that would be 9/16-7/8" of thread engagement in the nut.
Since the thread pitch is 9/16-18, you have 18 threads in one inch of fastener. That means...
Yep, two fusible links at the starter. There is also a fusible link that goes from that stud down towards the alternator. You probably smoked the fusible link from the starter to the fuse box for batt power(one is batt power and the other is ignition). You should be able to tell which one it is...
Your best best is probably to get an entire vehicle if you can. I think they just ran 4l60's behind them in the trailblazer... so nothing special there.
Its @Vbb199 . He bought a trailblazer and I think he was going either the turbo or supercharger route. They are a pretty darn stout option, but not any cheaper than an LS in my area.
I see you had to beat on your header for the #3 plug wire to clear. I was just doing the same thing on the ones I'm putting on my 2011. I would recommend swapping the MLS gaskets for Remflex ones. They'll never leak again.
Mine was a heavy GVW 3/4 ton with the F44 heavy duty front suspension and had all the original front and rear springs on it before I redid everything. Absolutely did not look like that. Mine looked just like that after putting 6" of lift in the rear and 4" of lift in the front.
I think part of...
I also have the Tuff Country EZ-ride HD fronts and have modified the rear to run 63" GMT-400 K2500 rear springs and a 2.5" shackle flip. I have the ORD sway bar disconnect and just leave it disconnected unless I am towing or hauling a heavy load in the bed. Rides really good for a 3/4 ton, but...
No, not at all. That is WAY more rake than the stock 3/4 ton. Mine sat that way when I had 6" of lift in the rear and 4" in the front. It still has a slight rake with the lift being mostly leveled out, but nothing like that.
I would say that the fact you measured height before and after, and have a 6" lift in the rear should answer your question. You obviously got the wrong rear springs.
My truck looked just like this when I put 63" rear springs on my truck in combination with a 4" shackle flip. I had read that...
Like Nick said, just pull the single bolt at the top of your picture and take the whole housing and gear out. It could be white and just discolored from the heat and grease exposure.
He says its a new motor(I'm assuming a crate motor) and is running a sniper EFI. I'd be shocked to see someone put a sniper EFI on and then keep the stock SMOG equipment, BWTHDIK :shrug:
Also.. we need pics in this thread before Rusty comes up in here and throws a fit.