What do you mean by "no going back"?
Internal dual feeding involves simply tapping the high reverse feed passage in the case for a 3/8x16 or 3/8x24 set screw then installing the set screw, leaving the high drum's center seal out and middle large stator sealing ring. All of that is reversible...
Yep, minimal mods to get TH400s to survive/thrive in high HP, high rom applications. Ill retro a 97+ 4L80E direct drum in to L71+ TH400s that come with that stupid intermediate roller clutch so i can run the BW 34-element sprag instead. Can run a full 4L80E int piston and clutch pack as well if...
You're welcome, @Sgt Gus!
Keep an eye on it, note that if your shifts start becoming late and real harsh, that could be a sign of high line pressure, which is common in these units as they wear/age...A pressure test can quickly rule that in or out.
Relatively normal for TH400s - some are more abrupt than others...My guess is that both forward and direct drums in yours have no cushion plates installed (the direct clutch is also used in reverse) and the center lip seal in the forward drum has either been omitted during a prev rebuild or left...
You're welcome
Potential causes:
- Poorly set up and/or misassembled 3-4 clutch
- Leaking 2-3 accumulator check ball capsule (rare)
- Turbine shaft sealing ring (2nd from bottom, bottom ring or both) pinched upon installation of the pump assembly into the case
- Worn, non-servicable pump...
Having a contingent of racing customers is always good for business and if you build trust w/them, do right, etc they won't ever go anywhere else...
I never install the shift kits as you can do pretty much everything the B&M kits call for independently, and largely same for the Transgo stuff as...
The 3-4 pack is smoked...Drop the pan to confirm but it will need to go back to the shop for rework. Once you get it back and installed, you must perform a pressure test to validate your TV cable set up and adjustment are good to go...I give all my 700R4 and 200-4R customers detailed...
It's up to you but isn't necessary if only doing a service as described in my post above...If you're going to be pulling it you should just overhaul it, esp if it hasn't been gone through before and has more than 100k on it...First drop the pan and see what the fluid and bottom look like...if...
Re-read the above, particularly your description about what's happening during the 2-3 shift and it does seem like your 3-4 pack is going out...Sometimes it starts out as a flare shift from 2nd to 3rd where RPMs jump for a second or two then 3rd engages at a slightly higher RPM than previous but...
If you want to service both accumulators, you'll need to drop the valve body and remove the little 'e' clip holding the 2-3 accumulator in place then compress the spring to install the new piston w/sealing ring...I'd strongly recommend doing so if your trans has a plastic 2-3 accumulator piston...
Won't comment on wheel bearings as it's outside the scope of this thread but as far as assuming, it's never a good idea...Always ask your transmission builder exactly what they do to the transmission, even it it means making a checklist and going through line by line.
Too many folks assume x...
I've done a few GM FWD transmissions, 4T60s and 4T65Es those are fairly straight forward but not touched anything foreign like Hondas, Toyotas etc...
Yep, I mentioned that it is very common to see the 1-2 acc spring broken; in fact I replace that spring with a brand new one on all TH350s I...
What are your line pressure readings at idle, min TV and full TV? If you dont know, find a transmission pressure gauge, hook it in and run the line pressure test.
Follow these instructions, let us know the results.
Dex/Merc is perfectly fine in the older GM transmissions; Dex6 wouldn't hurt but it's usually not worth it unless racing/super heavy duty towing hauling. Since the fluid is 10 years old, I'd probably change it but Dex6 isn't critical in this case.
You also quoted my posts and asked me about...
Yea, could be (think the 94
Vettes and F-Bodies had OBD2-compliant PCMs installed so hardware integration started earler than 96) but as far as I know, there were no vehicles anywhere manufactured with full OBD2 software, programming and hardware until 1996. But
I would be interested to learn...
PWM was introduced in 1995 for the 4L60Es so any ODB-1 TCC/component slipping codes would have applied for that year. Those codes were all two-digit codes without alpha-prefixes. 1993 vettes had 700r4s; they transitioned to 4L60Es in 94.
First gear is irrelevant to the mechanical leverage problem at higher throttle angles that can occur in overdrive (4th gear) when paring an overdrive transmission with something like a 2.73 final drive ratio or less. The 3.08 to 1 FD is the tallest ratio that I have seen that still works with...
Keep the anchor aside, there's a few valuable parts from it that i can use so can give you a little bit of credit for it towards your build when you're ready..ill let you know if i come into an 88-92 core as well.
4L60=700R4; GM simply changed the naming convention in the early 90s so yes any 700R4, 4L60 or shallow-pan from a 93-97 4L60E will work on any year 700R4.
I can but if it has the 27-spline small-diameter input shaft (82-E84), you have to pay for a later (L84-87) pump and input drum. Both of those parts together are very expensive and hard to find.
Count the splines on the input shaft to comfirm/deny...
I thought you picked up a 90 or 91 core...