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  1. C

    Grill and head light bezels -'81 K20 Silverado

    I’m super pleased with my AMD grille (different year though)
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    Potential wiring problem

    lol… There’s something I can think of that would result in the temp gauge pegging and the engine not running at the same time. To clarify, does the engine turn over when trying to start?
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    What are these for?

    They’re all rusted out, we welded a patch in mine instead of replacing
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    Potential wiring problem

    The factory wrap looks like electrical tape just less sticky
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    Potential wiring problem

    Mice love wiring insulation for some odd reason
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    Dual fuel tanks and valves

    Pretty! Does the rod go to the bottom of the cab or what? I made a shield out of scrap aluminum , but the stock one is so much nicer
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    Potential wiring problem

    I’d guess the gauge wiring has a short somewhere. Trace the wiring back to the firewall bulkhead, inspect for damage or chafing. If no damage there look in the cab: The harness that runs up to the gauge cluster from the bulkhead/fuse block is fairly large diameter and very difficult to get...
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    Dual fuel tanks and valves

    I’d like to see one mounted, My truck never had one, or it was removed by the original owner, or Dad took it off and didn’t want to put it back.
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    Bilsteins 5100 on 75 k10. Rear shock mounting fit issues

    That’s the same part number I used on the rear of my ‘80 K10, I don’t remember any issues. Be sure to check for cracks in the frame while you’re in there, mine was cracked on both sides where there is a little dent and flat spot pressed into the frame. IIRC @Grit dog had issues with how the...
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    3in body lift pucks

    I’d pull the steering shaft first, and unhook the shift linkage second (for automatic) or clutch for standard before pulling any body mounts or lift pucks
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    Best header back exhaust package for a 1985 K10 short bed

    My first set of duals was a Hooker 2.25” kit from the PAW catalog, IIRC the pipe kit was around $200 and two $29 super turbo Hooker mufflers. That kit and a little cam and I had one of the better sounding trucks in town
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    Correct Exhaust Manifold Bolts

    Grade 8s with washers works but don’t look nice and are a far cry from an OE looking bolt. I had bought some 2.5” grade 8’s that I cut down to 2.25”, but ended up replacing them with ARP’s instead
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    Dual fuel tanks and valves

    Same on my ‘80 half ton, inside of the frame rail just in front of the back cab mount. Here’s a picture without the bed on, ignore my hose routing (my valve was bypassed)
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    Best header back exhaust package for a 1985 K10 short bed

    IIRC the difference between a LB or SB kit is the length of the first straight section as it leaves the mufflers. Many kits just require cutting that pipe to length.
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    A very expensive and dumb mistake (update I was wrong)

    So long as the angle at one joint matches the angle at the other it’s all good! No different than the downward angle from the trans to the pinion. I suppose it could make the phasing of the joints more sensitive to pinion angle. Pinion and transfer case are both parallel to the frame rails...
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    Filling in seams

    If mine were off by a 1/6” I would’ve smeared body filler on em.
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    Filling in seams

    I shaved and smoothed the door jambs but left the seam at the top of the B pillar on the exterior.
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    Why doesn't anyone use the Chevy "Connect & Cruise" packages?

    It’s going in a ‘71 Jaguar XJ-6 if I get it, so no smog concerns.
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    Why doesn't anyone use the Chevy "Connect & Cruise" packages?

    I think I got a deal in the works for an ‘07 Escalade with the L92 for cheap, has a rear main leak and the cats are no good. Seller is responsible for smog in CA unless it’s non operational. CARB approved Y pipe and cats is $2K and the shop estimate for rear seal is 12 hours. Repair would cost...
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    Cab bottom pics needed

    That is a heavy coat of epoxy, white tinted raptor liner, base coat, and a medium solids clear coat. No experience with the 3M undercoat but most everything 3M is quality product. I’ve used U-pol raptor liner on some projects and Dad did the bottom of his ‘56 and under hood with U-pol...
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    Dual Tanks Fuel switch delete

    ^^^ This If the system would work well without a selector valve GM wouldn’t have spent the money putting them in. If you need to hack it to get by for a while, then so be it. Whichever tank has less resistance to pull the fuel from may end up getting ran dry faster than the other. When my...
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    A grand hello From eastern Oregon

    Welcome from N.E. California! We need some pictures Sir. I am just finishing up a 3 year restoration of my 1980 K-10 https://www.gmsquarebody.com/threads/80-k-10-squircle-build.34732/
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    Cab bottom pics needed

    @legopnuematic beat me to it but here’s another, also a picture of the skids I built to hold my cab until the bodywork was done and it was ready to go back on the frame. Probably easiest to just tip the cab on its back to paint the underside
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    Aux battery for audio

    Basically…. Positive amplifier wire directly to the battery terminal fused within 18” or so of the battery Most people ground to the body near the amplifier, I took it one step further and grounded to the frame under the cab. That’s one of the reasons everyone is stressing the importance of the...
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    Daughters ‘87 needs to ride smooth.

    Auto manufacturers are also under tremendous pressure to increase the efficiency of their vehicles, customers want better fuel mileage and the federal government taxes manufacturers more in vehicles that are less efficient. Maxing tire pressure is the cheapest economical modification possible...

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