Oh, dear....
Ok, a manual choke has a cable that goes to a knob on the dash. Really old cars and trucks had these. It was easy to look down and see if the choke was applied, and by how much.
You should have a thermostatic choke. That is, a spring coil that expands and shrinks with ambient temps, applying a variable amount of pressure to the choke lever, closing the butterfly. If it is a warm day, on a cold engine, the coil would apply little or no tension to the butterfly, but it shrinks in the cold night air, coiling tighter, applying fairly stiff pressure to hold the choke butterfly closed against engine vacuum when it starts.
Once the engine starts, the spring holds the butterfly closed, and causes the rich condition needed while cold. When the engine begins to warm up, this will be too rich. Two methods were used to address this. One is an electric heated choke coil, that has 9-12 volts applied either directly to the coil spring, or to a heating element mounted right beside it. The other method funnels warm air from a tube that passes through the exhaust cross-over passage. A small vacuum port in the choke coil cover draws the air through. In both cases, they intended the coil to warm about as fast as the engine, so that the choke was no longer applied once the engine was fully warmed up.
Now about starting it each day.....
You drive your car today, engine and choke get hot, and the butterfly is fully opened. You shut it off. Tonight, the temps drop, and the engine chills all the way through. The choke coil tightens up, and applies pressure to the choke lever. The butterfly remains open, though, because the fast idle screw is blocking the choke cam from allowing the butterfly to move. If you simply hop in and crank the engine, you have no choke applied, and the engine won't start. Try it too many times and you may flood the engine, getting a short term start, but it may have to be nursed along.
The right way to start a cold engine: Put the key in the ignition, but don't turn it on. As soon as you do, the heater (electric choke) kicks in and starts to work against you.
Before you turn the key on, depress the peddle one or two times, maybe three. You'll figure out that the colder it is, the more the engine wants.
Don't just slam the pedal to the floor. Depress it moderately slow, like you are driving away. On the last stroke, raise your foot very slowly. This lets the fast idle cam set, and the choke coil will close the butterfly as much as the current temps require.
Now crank it. It should catch and run right away, but probably quite high. Maybe 1200-1500 rpm. Don't freak out. Let it have it's way. If you hear rpm start to climb at all, or after 45 seconds, just lightly tap the pedal. The fast idle cam should fall to the next notch and rpm will come down some. Leave it alone. This is where I usually run back into the house for whatever I forgot. Let the heater start working, whatever, then you can tap the pedal again. When the idle fall down to normal, you are safe to drive away.
