What is this wire? It burnt threw.
- Thread starter GunMan9
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One of the fusible links in the power feed/charging circuit. Where does it trace to, the block on the firewall?
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You can cut it out and put an inline 30 amp fuse, use the same gauge wire/fuse holder. You can order replacement fusible links to keep it factory looking. That went bad on mine at the alternator and that mod got me buy. If you are out on the road stuck somewhere cut it out and wire it up direct to get you to safety, but get a fuse in that asap.
Some of those go bad just with age. If you think that happened all of a sudden from a power draw or short DO NOT WIRE IT TOGETHER DIRECT.
GunMan9
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Do you have any idea what guage wire it is. How do I connect the two wires at the bottom or do I just join them together and use a butt joint to connect them to the fuse link
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Best way to do it is solder it, butt joint is a last resort, I'd rather use a wire nut than a but joint on that gauge wire and current. Somebody will chime in on the wire size, I got to run. Maybe 12 gauge?
GunMan9
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I can solder it and heat shrink wrap it. Also I noticed this was bad but have no idea what it is.
You must be registered for see images attach
Jims86
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Find out why that burnt up before you connect it.
in the pic, is a Thermal Vacuum Switch(TVS)
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Nope, pull the vacume lines off, deepwell socket(might be a special socket), screws out, replace.
And im gonna guess 10ga.
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That's a TVS (thermal vacuum switch). It has a sensing bulb that is in contact with the engine coolant.
When the coolant reaches operating temperature the valve opens and applies vacuum to the EGR valve. I think - it might also operate the EFE (early fuel evaporation) valve.
It's hard to tell from the image and without the emissions code (maybe YFC, YFD, YJM) that is shown on a sticker located on the radiator support.
On the falied wire - it looks like the fusible link is still intact. The wire leading into it appears to have been already butt spliced at some point.
Like 89Suburban suggests, butt splicing anything in that circuit is a bad idea.
It looks like there is enough of a stub left to allow you to do a strip, solder and heatshrink repair procedure.
If that lead is the one that goes up to the junction block on the firewall - and it's hard to say from the image - it is a 1mm wire (= 16AWG).
When the coolant reaches operating temperature the valve opens and applies vacuum to the EGR valve. I think - it might also operate the EFE (early fuel evaporation) valve.
It's hard to tell from the image and without the emissions code (maybe YFC, YFD, YJM) that is shown on a sticker located on the radiator support.
On the falied wire - it looks like the fusible link is still intact. The wire leading into it appears to have been already butt spliced at some point.
Like 89Suburban suggests, butt splicing anything in that circuit is a bad idea.
It looks like there is enough of a stub left to allow you to do a strip, solder and heatshrink repair procedure.
If that lead is the one that goes up to the junction block on the firewall - and it's hard to say from the image - it is a 1mm wire (= 16AWG).
