Upper ball joint adjustment?

[Customdeluxe85]

Im about to replace all the bearings and ball joints up front on my 85 K10and most of its straight forward and a lot I picked up from past threads here. That said, there are still a couple things I need more clarification on before I start so any advise is appreciated.

1- What does the upper ball joint adjustment do? Camber? Is it a critical adjustment? Any details about this particular area will be useful.

2- I read somewhere about torque values and the pasted instructions had a separate torque value for the inner and outer hub bearings? Did I completely miss something or doesn't the same two nuts jammed together with the washer in between secure both bearings? Where are separate values coming from?

3- Do most of you force as much grease as possible into the hub after the bearings are packed? Like literally taking up all empty space with grease? Can too much grease make the locker not function properly?

 

[bucket]

That upper ball joint adjustment just lets both ball joints seat at the same time basically. A lot of people don't ever mess with it and everything is usually fine. IIRC, there's a rather involved correct procedure, but I just so a simple one that may not be 'correct' but works good. I just get it all cleaned and lubed up so it turns easily, then back the adjuster out some. Install the ball joints in the knuckle and then put the knuckle onto the axle housing. Snug up the lower ball joint, then turn the adjuster until it's snugged up to the upper ball joint, then tighten both ball joints.

I just pack the bearings and make sure to smear a lot of extra grease onto the bearings before installing them.

Inner nut gets tightened until it takes a little resistance to turn the hub, then back the nut off slightly. The outer nut I never torque, just tighten the flock out of it.

 

[Customdeluxe85]

I found pictures on line and it appears that the one on the passenger side is broken. At first, I thought it was a weird washer with the slant going on but I think it broke off the bushing lower portion.

Do you know if both sides take the threaded bushing with the teeth m thing its a two piece deal on both sides. If so, ill have to buy new ones and have an alignment shop install them and adjust. Do you know of any write up on the adjustment in particular?

 

[highdesertrange]

the instructions for the threaded bushings come with them, which come with the upper ball joints. the adjustment is easy just follow the instructions. highdesertranger

 

[hirschdalechevy]

If you have everything a part ,you should be holding the whole knuckle in your hand . buy or rent a ball joint press and press the old one's out and the new one's in the knuckle . Clean the the threads on the housing where the ball stud adjusting sleeve go'es and put the new one in a bit until the top of it is sticking out about an 1/8 or so of an inch. Then put your knuckle back into place on the housing lineing up the joint studs. Torque the lower nut to 35lbs , run the upper sleeve in by hand as far as you can . Then you will need to buy the socket for the sleeve from the parts store and torque it to 50lbs. Then go back to the lower nut and torque it to 80lbs . Then go back to the upper nut and torque it to 100lbs , done. The instructions will come with your new joints and they may be a tick different torque value's but as long as you are close you are fine.All trucks are a little different so when you are done a shop has a pull scale and they adjust the torque's until thye have 25lbs when pulling on the knuckle but nobody at home has that scale so you just get it close and go with it . Just dont get crazy over torquing . When you are done pull on the knuckle and it should have a firm resistance.

All that sleeve does is seat the upper joint , it has nothing to do with camber.

 

[bucket]

Or is the question about an aftermarket alignment sleeve?

I guess we could benefit from a picture, or knowing if the sleeve in question has a big hex on the top of it.