Understanding edelbrock tuning

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Obwonkonobe

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I have an edelbrock 1406 on my 350, pretty standard deal, installed and supposedly "tuned" by the p.o.. It runs alright but it needed a cleaning so i tore it down today and ran everything through with brakleen. I'd like to tune it again for economy, because im assuming its not tuned for it rn considering my crap mpg. I dont know how to measure jets and seats and springs etc, so i just took a bunch of photos. If someone could explain how to translate what i see during the rebuild into the calibration chart that would be appreciated, and if someone can tell what kinda jets etc I have in rn that would help too, thanks

If i missed anything just ask, i can tear it back down

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Charlie

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There are youtube videos for Edelbrock carbs that can help too.
 

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Did you look for small numbers on your jets or metering rod?

basically tuning your carb for economy means running as lean of settings as is safe. you primarily do this with smaller jets and adjusting your idle air/fuel ratio (the two screws on the front base of your carb). you should call Edelbrock once you know what jets you have and make sure they are on the lean end of the spectrum for the elevation you primarily drive at. the idle air fuel screws only change economy at idle and slightly above. these can be adjusted by ear (impact on idle speed) but its better to do it by actual engine speed. you should invest in a timing light with a digital tach readout if you don't have one already.

correct timing, spark gap, lack of vacuum leaks and carb adjustments can make a night and day difference if you are way out of whack in terms of performance and economy. keep in mind, that carb wasn't built specifically for economy. the Edelbrock comes with a setup dvd explaining everything.

also, you could look into a more economical carb to begin with. I think the q-jets are known for better economy. you could also look into a 2 barrel carb.
 

Obwonkonobe

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Did you look for small numbers on your jets or metering rod?

basically tuning your carb for economy means running as lean of settings as is safe. you primarily do this with smaller jets and adjusting your idle air/fuel ratio (the two screws on the front base of your carb). you should call Edelbrock once you know what jets you have and make sure they are on the lean end of the spectrum for the elevation you primarily drive at. the idle air fuel screws only change economy at idle and slightly above. these can be adjusted by ear (impact on idle speed) but its better to do it by actual engine speed. you should invest in a timing light with a digital tach readout if you don't have one already.

correct timing, spark gap, lack of vacuum leaks and carb adjustments can make a night and day difference if you are way out of whack in terms of performance and economy. keep in mind, that carb wasn't built specifically for economy. the Edelbrock comes with a setup dvd explaining everything.

also, you could look into a more economical carb to begin with. I think the q-jets are known for better economy. you could also look into a 2 barrel carb.

Il go back and look for numbers on the jets, those tiny round things right? And I don't care all that much about it to swap carbs or downgrade, I just wanna know im getting the best i can with what i have
 

Honky Kong jr

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Once I get my hands on one of them things I’m gonna do a “how to tune an Eddy” video :flamingdevil:
 

Obwonkonobe

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Once I get my hands on one of them things I’m gonna do a “how to tune an Eddy” video :flamingdevil:

Omg please, i get the concept and all but there are no straight forward vids that i can find, its all 2 hours of drunk guys with baby fingers trying to figure it out themselves
 

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LMMFAO my video will not be to helpful to you....


LOL let me guess, this is how to tune an edelbrock carb, step 1 remove carb, step 2 throw said carb in trash, step 3 install holley or FI unit
 

crazy4offroad

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The owner's manual has a lot to offer as far as tuning goes. If your engine is mostly stock or has mild upgrades the stock settings are best. The biggest issue I've had is dirt getting in the idle air circuit, making it run really badly, making you increase idle speed to keep it running and richening up the idle air screws to keep it from idling hot. It's important to keep the fuel system clean and use good filters. Not those screen see-through cleanable filters but something like a good ac delco paper inline filter.
 

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Honky Kong jr

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LOL let me guess, this is how to tune an edelbrock carb, step 1 remove carb, step 2 throw said carb in trash, step 3 install holley or FI unit
There will be an ax involved too
 

Swims350

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There will be an ax involved too


I know that all too well.

We've owned several, threw em on no issues, then th elast one I had, yuck.

I never had to run a fuel pressure regulator with any running a block mounted mechanical pump, and this one I did. It kept running too much psi and blowing the needle off the seat and flooding. it kept getting dirt or something in it and would not let the idle mixture work, I could screw them shut and it still ran. Anything else it was too rich and fouled plugs. I took tat thing apart, cleaned rebuilt I don't know how many times. I got rid of it.

I have a holley now that needs rebuilt never done one hoping to use it.

My first question is you didn't use that spring like in your pic did you? on the metering rod, because it goes up under the piston.

Also the only other things I can think of would be to step down jet and rod sizes until some of the conditions listed in the book happens, like stumbles etc. It even says that says to go leaner if it's not acting up now and keep doing so until it does begin to act up then go back up a step. Honestly if you want max mpg you want a good q-jet or FI setup
 

Honky Kong jr

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I know that all too well.

We've owned several, threw em on no issues, then th elast one I had, yuck.

I never had to run a fuel pressure regulator with any running a block mounted mechanical pump, and this one I did. It kept running too much psi and blowing the needle off the seat and flooding. it kept getting dirt or something in it and would not let the idle mixture work, I could screw them shut and it still ran. Anything else it was too rich and fouled plugs. I took tat thing apart, cleaned rebuilt I don't know how many times. I got rid of it.

I have a holley now that needs rebuilt never done one hoping to use it.

My first question is you didn't use that spring like in your pic did you? on the metering rod, because it goes up under the piston.

Also the only other things I can think of would be to step down jet and rod sizes until some of the conditions listed in the book happens, like stumbles etc. It even says that says to go leaner if it's not acting up now and keep doing so until it does begin to act up then go back up a step. Honestly if you want max mpg you want a good q-jet or FI setup
I don’t like them. It makes me laugh when I see twins on a blower or a tunnel ram.
 
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