Raider L
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Sep 1, 2020
- Posts
- 1,892
- Reaction score
- 1,001
- Location
- Shreveport, LA
- First Name
- William
- Truck Year
- 1974
- Truck Model
- C10
- Engine Size
- 355
Well, this sounds so much like some of the rest but it is different. Today I was going to the grocery store and turned my right turn signal on and I had no turn signal light in my dash. So I tried the left and it worked fine. I got to the store and left the engine running, turned the right signal on and got out to see what was working. The signal was working fine yesterday so I looked at the front. I had no turn signal light nor side marker. Went around back and had a right tail light. Turned the left turn signal on and walked out front, had both front and back lights blinking. Of course after spending this last month on wiring issues I just wasn't prepared to tackle more electrical issues of a totally unknown origin...please!!
Got home and pulled both right turn signal lights and both bulbs were okay. Besides having a burned out bulb wouldn't cause the dash turn signal light to be out, nor would a burned out dash turn signal light cause the outside turn signals to not work.
Well, that only left one thing I didn't even want to think about and that was pulling the steering wheel and see what's wrong with the turn signal switch, and what turns the signals on and off with the lever( I can't remember what it's called right now).
Took it all apart and after some examination I decided that the poor thing is just flat worn out. Well it is factory original. But that's not the part that's causing the problem. What was causing the problem, I believe, was the two spring backed slider things on the back of the thing you turn the signals off and on with the lever. They're made of brass (and I might be able to find the photo of them on this site as I did a tutorial on how it all goes together. Let me see if I can find it...stand by.
In the pic below are those plates I mentioned above, on the back of the lever thing. The little nubs on these brass plates are worn down and you don't get these any other way unless you buy a whole new switch.
If anyone knows how to get these brass plates new, please let me know.. Tonight I ordered a whole new turn signal switch assembly because the one that's in there is over fifty years old. And there are a couple of nubs on the brass plates that are worn flat and I suppose aren't making good enough contact to make with the switch plates the nubs push against. This photo of the plates are on the underside of the lever thing.
The pic below shows the little springs that push the brass plates up against the contact plates on the switch assembly that the wires are connected to. That part of the assembly is the part the wires that pass through the column housing are connected to and plug into the matching plug under the ignition switch. You can see that the nub at the top of this angled part is almost flat. Now I'm paying the price for not replacing the whole thing with a all new switch assembly, and not have kept the one that's been in there forever.
This is just a photo of the lever part. As you pull the lever up and down it moves those brass plates over the flat contact plates on the switch assembly that have the wires connected to them that end up going to the lights, left and right, front and rear. And the combination of the nubs and the switch contact plate positions cause 12v's to go to the turn signals left or right. Also, when you pull out the hazard button the turn lever is by-passed and all the lights come on at once.
Got home and pulled both right turn signal lights and both bulbs were okay. Besides having a burned out bulb wouldn't cause the dash turn signal light to be out, nor would a burned out dash turn signal light cause the outside turn signals to not work.
Well, that only left one thing I didn't even want to think about and that was pulling the steering wheel and see what's wrong with the turn signal switch, and what turns the signals on and off with the lever( I can't remember what it's called right now).
Took it all apart and after some examination I decided that the poor thing is just flat worn out. Well it is factory original. But that's not the part that's causing the problem. What was causing the problem, I believe, was the two spring backed slider things on the back of the thing you turn the signals off and on with the lever. They're made of brass (and I might be able to find the photo of them on this site as I did a tutorial on how it all goes together. Let me see if I can find it...stand by.
In the pic below are those plates I mentioned above, on the back of the lever thing. The little nubs on these brass plates are worn down and you don't get these any other way unless you buy a whole new switch.
If anyone knows how to get these brass plates new, please let me know.. Tonight I ordered a whole new turn signal switch assembly because the one that's in there is over fifty years old. And there are a couple of nubs on the brass plates that are worn flat and I suppose aren't making good enough contact to make with the switch plates the nubs push against. This photo of the plates are on the underside of the lever thing.
You must be registered for see images attach
The pic below shows the little springs that push the brass plates up against the contact plates on the switch assembly that the wires are connected to. That part of the assembly is the part the wires that pass through the column housing are connected to and plug into the matching plug under the ignition switch. You can see that the nub at the top of this angled part is almost flat. Now I'm paying the price for not replacing the whole thing with a all new switch assembly, and not have kept the one that's been in there forever.
You must be registered for see images attach
This is just a photo of the lever part. As you pull the lever up and down it moves those brass plates over the flat contact plates on the switch assembly that have the wires connected to them that end up going to the lights, left and right, front and rear. And the combination of the nubs and the switch contact plate positions cause 12v's to go to the turn signals left or right. Also, when you pull out the hazard button the turn lever is by-passed and all the lights come on at once.
You must be registered for see images attach
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