To lift or not to lift

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SA Fan

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I'm sure I'm not the first guy with these questions but I'm fairly new at this. I got my hands on a 85 Military D30 but it has a 350 in it so I guess that makes it a K30. I got this truck running and I absolutly love this truck. Planning on doing a nice paintjob in 2016 but firstly I'm thinking of a 6-8 inch lift. I just like the look of a lifted truck. I don't plan on working with the truck, it'll purely be eye candy. I do not want to sacrfice ridebility because it's already quite bouncy in the back. I read a lot about Rough Country's products as well as various other suppliers. As I live in South Africa these kits are pretty expensive to ship to us (the US$/ZAR exchange rate is killing us). So I'd like to try and have it manufactured at one of our local leafspring manufacturing shops. What do these kits consists of and what do one have to order seperate to make it work? Can I remove the current spring and use that as a template with just 6-8" more curvature? Maybe a 4" suspension lift with a 3" body lift will be easier achievable and sacrifice the least with regards to stifness. Alternatively I must consider used parts from a salvage yard. Any recommendations.
 

highdesertrange

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welcome, my brother in-law is from South Africa. here is my opinion, 1 inch body lift max. 4 inch suspension lift max. your spring shop can bend up some springs. you will need longer shocks. you will need a new corrected steering arm. do not skip the steering arm. it's also a good idea to add support to the frame at the steering box, I like the weld on plate, I do this to my trucks before problems arise. highdesertranger
 

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Hey Mike, thanks for the fast response, small world with your brother in law being SA, he must be a good man, hehe. I'm going to do a RHD conversion (just for practicality reasons at our security booms at malls and toll booths) and I've read a lot about the cross over steering the guys do when they do high lifts. I was thinking of doing that rather than the drop pitman arm which will in my application kill two birds with one stone being the lift and the RHD conversion. I'm not a big fan of a body lift but what kind of problems arise with a higher body lift than 1"? I know the gap between body and bumpers increase, transfer case lever travel, gearshift linkage. With regards to the suspension lift, any specs on the thickness of material or do I just use existing leafs as sample just with a 4" deeper curve?
 

crazy4offroad

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Body lifts create leverage between the body and frame. Hard braking or a collision with anything more could cause the body to move excessively or break loose from the frame.
 

firebane

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If you only do a 4" lift you don't need cross over steering. Cross over steering is big money as you need a lot of extra parts to get the job done.

With a 4" lift all you need is a raised steering arm and don't worry about the pitman arm. As stated though it is a good idea to brace the steering box but that again is only necessary if you plan to run MASSIVE tires.

Before you do the lift though I do suggest you check the frame area around the steering box to ensure that it is not cracked already.

I just put a 4" lift into my truck if you have any questions just ask.
 

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I did a 4 inch recently too. 4 inch is the max I would ago to avoid bad driveline angles.
 

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Thanks folks, hey firebane, did you fabricate the kit yourself or did you use a specific brand?
Are you happy with the ride after the conversion?
Can you post some pics of the raised steering arm?
 

highdesertrange

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more than 1 inch body lifts create all kinds of headaches. the biggest are radiator and shroud, the angle of the steering column to the box. the length of the steering column from the cab to the steering box. the transfer case shifter. there are many other things but the ones a mentioned directly affect the reliability and safety of the truck. some guys are going to say I am full of you know what. that they put on a 2,3,4 inch body lift with no problems. well I doubt it. I have seen some ridiculous things done to trucks and he owners think it's perfectly fine.
also cross over steering is for the rock crawlers. I have known several guys do it and regret it. only to swap it back. highdesertranger
 

bucket

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Other than a slightly rougher ride, there's nothing wrong with a 6 inch lift as long as the drive shafts are made longer. Being a long bed truck, driveline angles should be fine.


If you only do a 4" lift you don't need cross over steering. Cross over steering is big money as you need a lot of extra parts to get the job done.

But with the mention of a RHD conversion, crossover steering should be cheaper and easier. Just a high steer arm, a drag link and a 2wd steering box mounted to the right side frame rail.
 

firebane

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Other than a slightly rougher ride, there's nothing wrong with a 6 inch lift as long as the drive shafts are made longer. Being a long bed truck, driveline angles should be fine.




But with the mention of a RHD conversion, crossover steering should be cheaper and easier. Just a high steer arm, a drag link and a 2wd steering box mounted to the right side frame rail.

Being a 85 he would need a flat top knuckle and machined and those if you buy new $$$
 

bucket

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Being a 85 he would need a flat top knuckle and machined and those if you buy new $$$

RHD. Box on the right side and arm on the left side. No knuckle swapping needed. Crossover is the logical way to go with a RHD conversion, unless I've lost my marbles.


*edit* RHD as in Right Hand Drive
 

firebane

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RHD. Box on the right side and arm on the left side. No knuckle swapping needed. Crossover is the logical way to go with a RHD conversion, unless I've lost my marbles.


*edit* RHD as in Right Hand Drive

I know what right hand drive means... You'd still need a steering arm for the passenger side. Just like you would with LHD. Silly.
 

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I know what right hand drive means... You'd still need a steering arm for the passenger side. Just like you would with LHD. Silly.

Unless I'm think of it wrong, you wouldn't. The cross over steering would be reversed. You would mount the upper rod from the steering box to the arm on the left hand knuckle that alread has a machined top. Then the rod would cross back the the right side in the normal location.
 

firebane

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Unless I'm think of it wrong, you wouldn't. The cross over steering would be reversed. You would mount the upper rod from the steering box to the arm on the left hand knuckle that alread has a machined top. Then the rod would cross back the the right side in the normal location.

Well this depends... I mean I've never personally seen a RHD solid axle truck but in my head the steering box and stock steering arm would be on the right knuckle.

That would make the left tire knuckle the equivalent of the right knuckle on a normal truck...

Would it not?
 

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