Evil Crew Cab
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Jan 25, 2012
- Posts
- 134
- Reaction score
- 17
- Location
- Reno, NV
- First Name
- Steven
- Truck Year
- 1987
- Truck Model
- V30 CC SRW Conversion
- Engine Size
- 454 TBI/4L80E/NP205/D60/Gen 2 14BFF
Let me start off by listing the vehicle info and upgrades I've made to the truck/engine this far...
1987 V30 Crew Cab TBI 454 (60,000 original miles) with a 4L80E on a Compushift II Standalone Controller.
The truck pretty much sat for 16 years before I bought it. A lot of parts/wiring/sensors had issues when I brought the truck home so I went through a huge list of fixes!
- New MSD cap & rotor
- New MSD Blaster 2 coil
- New DUI DynaMod Ignition Module
- New MSD Super Conductor Wires
- New NGK 5 heat range plugs
- New upper and lower TBI gaskets
- New PCV Valve
- New NTK 1-wire o2 sensor
- New vacuum lines throughout engine bay
- New various wiring connectors as most were broken
- New Severe Duty Fan Clutch
- New OEM style 4-core radiator (only because I nicked the new one the previous owner installed while changing the fan clutch)
- 185* Robert Shaw Drilled T-Stat and all new hoses
- New A/C compressor and full 134A conversion with new pressure switch and all new o-rings
- Truck would not idle below 1,900rpm and I found the wiring to the front coolant temp sensor had been joined using 3M jelly bean crimp connectors and they failed. Solder and heat shrink fixed this.
- The EGR system started acting up a few weeks after starting to drive the truck, stumbling and bucking whenever I got into the throttle under load. After pulling the vacuum line off the EGR valve and finding this solved the problem, I replaced the EGR valve and solenoid with new AC Delco pieces. Problem still existed so I plugged the vacuum line internally and reconnected everything. Truck runs great but the EGR is simply for looks now.
- Both exhaust manifolds were cracked and check valves in the AIR tubes were bad, along with the AIR hard pipe that runs around the back of the engine to the driver side. I went ahead and found the last NOS hard pipe in the gm dealer network, got all new soft line and clamps, new AC Delco check valves, new Dorman manifolds and installed everything
- The passenger fuel tank never worked when I bought the truck and after diagnosing it as a faulty fuel pump we took the bed off and found the rubber hose between the pump and the pickup had rotted. So we flushed both of the tanks, replaced both pumps and soft lines with submersible hose, new Dorman buckets with new level sensors (level sensor in passenger side tank were bad as well) and new fuel filter.
- I also fully rebuilt the TBI unit with brand new Delphi injectors and new FPR.
There is a bunch of stuff I'm missing, but I basically replaced everything since the truck sat for so long!
As I've been restoring the truck I finished the 4L80E swap, lift/tires/wheels/suspension/steering, all the interior stuff and moved into working on the performance side of things and I have a few issues I need help with.
ISSUE #1 - Since I bought the truck, I have noticed that I always have an issue when I get off the freeway after cruising for a long distance (5+ miles) where the truck stumbles when I come to a stop at the freeway off ramp. I initially attributed this to "highway cooling" of the o2 sensor as I did replace it during my initial work but it was still a 1-wire unit. This issue will always clear itself up after 45 seconds or so and I get no SES lights/codes.
I just finished the entire exhaust system, Doug's Tri-Y's, Magnaflow 59956 spun Metallic core cats, Magnaflow 12226 mufflers and all 2.5" piping. When I did this work, I upgraded to an NTK 21003 3-wire o2 sensor thinking this would resolve the idle issue when getting off the freeway, it definitely made things better but it's still occurring.
ISSUE #2 - During the summer, the coolant temps have been fine whenever cruising on flat ground but during steep hills, whether going 25mph or on the freeway going 65mph, the truck with heat up past 220* even with the 185* Robert Shaw T-Stat, new radiator and new fan clutch. I've never had a truck do this so I'm wondering if this is common...
ISSUE #3 - Not really an issue, but wondering what route to take with tuning, where should I look for a solid performance chip? Should I also upgrade anything else in the ignition, like adding an MSD 6AL or Street Fire box? I am getting ready to swap the iron intake manifold for the Edelbrock 3764 TBI intake so any other thoughts on items to upgrade while I am doing the intake would be helpful!
Any help or insight on any of these topics is greatly appreciated! Thank you in advance!
1987 V30 Crew Cab TBI 454 (60,000 original miles) with a 4L80E on a Compushift II Standalone Controller.
The truck pretty much sat for 16 years before I bought it. A lot of parts/wiring/sensors had issues when I brought the truck home so I went through a huge list of fixes!
- New MSD cap & rotor
- New MSD Blaster 2 coil
- New DUI DynaMod Ignition Module
- New MSD Super Conductor Wires
- New NGK 5 heat range plugs
- New upper and lower TBI gaskets
- New PCV Valve
- New NTK 1-wire o2 sensor
- New vacuum lines throughout engine bay
- New various wiring connectors as most were broken
- New Severe Duty Fan Clutch
- New OEM style 4-core radiator (only because I nicked the new one the previous owner installed while changing the fan clutch)
- 185* Robert Shaw Drilled T-Stat and all new hoses
- New A/C compressor and full 134A conversion with new pressure switch and all new o-rings
- Truck would not idle below 1,900rpm and I found the wiring to the front coolant temp sensor had been joined using 3M jelly bean crimp connectors and they failed. Solder and heat shrink fixed this.
- The EGR system started acting up a few weeks after starting to drive the truck, stumbling and bucking whenever I got into the throttle under load. After pulling the vacuum line off the EGR valve and finding this solved the problem, I replaced the EGR valve and solenoid with new AC Delco pieces. Problem still existed so I plugged the vacuum line internally and reconnected everything. Truck runs great but the EGR is simply for looks now.
- Both exhaust manifolds were cracked and check valves in the AIR tubes were bad, along with the AIR hard pipe that runs around the back of the engine to the driver side. I went ahead and found the last NOS hard pipe in the gm dealer network, got all new soft line and clamps, new AC Delco check valves, new Dorman manifolds and installed everything
- The passenger fuel tank never worked when I bought the truck and after diagnosing it as a faulty fuel pump we took the bed off and found the rubber hose between the pump and the pickup had rotted. So we flushed both of the tanks, replaced both pumps and soft lines with submersible hose, new Dorman buckets with new level sensors (level sensor in passenger side tank were bad as well) and new fuel filter.
- I also fully rebuilt the TBI unit with brand new Delphi injectors and new FPR.
There is a bunch of stuff I'm missing, but I basically replaced everything since the truck sat for so long!
As I've been restoring the truck I finished the 4L80E swap, lift/tires/wheels/suspension/steering, all the interior stuff and moved into working on the performance side of things and I have a few issues I need help with.
ISSUE #1 - Since I bought the truck, I have noticed that I always have an issue when I get off the freeway after cruising for a long distance (5+ miles) where the truck stumbles when I come to a stop at the freeway off ramp. I initially attributed this to "highway cooling" of the o2 sensor as I did replace it during my initial work but it was still a 1-wire unit. This issue will always clear itself up after 45 seconds or so and I get no SES lights/codes.
I just finished the entire exhaust system, Doug's Tri-Y's, Magnaflow 59956 spun Metallic core cats, Magnaflow 12226 mufflers and all 2.5" piping. When I did this work, I upgraded to an NTK 21003 3-wire o2 sensor thinking this would resolve the idle issue when getting off the freeway, it definitely made things better but it's still occurring.
ISSUE #2 - During the summer, the coolant temps have been fine whenever cruising on flat ground but during steep hills, whether going 25mph or on the freeway going 65mph, the truck with heat up past 220* even with the 185* Robert Shaw T-Stat, new radiator and new fan clutch. I've never had a truck do this so I'm wondering if this is common...
ISSUE #3 - Not really an issue, but wondering what route to take with tuning, where should I look for a solid performance chip? Should I also upgrade anything else in the ignition, like adding an MSD 6AL or Street Fire box? I am getting ready to swap the iron intake manifold for the Edelbrock 3764 TBI intake so any other thoughts on items to upgrade while I am doing the intake would be helpful!
Any help or insight on any of these topics is greatly appreciated! Thank you in advance!