Semi-complete Vortec swap

[benjaminearle]

So, in the last few months I've gotten a little short on coin and will be postponing the Vortec swap. In the meantime I need to get a head gasket and radiator so the old mill can haul these 3 tons around. I'm looking for head gasket advice like:

1. Should I go ahead and do both
2. Is there a particularly 'forgiving' gasket since I have NO desire to machine the head(s)
3. I assume I'll have to do intake gaskets at the same time
4. I will not be hauling 15,000lbs of trailer to Alaska - do i REALLY have to replace the head bolts and chase the holes?
5. Any recommendations on a reasonable radiator? RockAuto lists a bunch of them.

Like I said, this is to get me moving around until I can save the scratch for a conversion.

Here's the kit i was looking at: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...t-felpro_5181070-p?searchTerm=head+gasket+set
Who knows, with a reliable cooling system and someone who can tune a carb, maybe this setup will last as long as I can stand not having AC.

 

[crazy4offroad]

Perimeter valve cover gaskets and 6-hole intake gaskets wont work. I used these intake gaskets...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sce-111120
...but I recommend spraying them down with something like supertack gasket prep or similar. Also ordered a cheap set of fel-pro head gaskets and waterneck gasket from there. For valve cover gaskets Autozone has a nice set of fel-pro rubber gaskets. As far as doing both head gaskets, do they both need it? Any coolant slipping by? Wrap some sandpaper around a block of wood and sand the deck of the heads a little and look for noticeable highs/lows between cylinders and cylinders/water passages. Remember decking the heads not only gives you a true surface but it also gives you a little bump in compression. The head bolts aren't torque-to-yield so they can be reused but I would chase the threads and oil the threads and underside of the heads of the bolts before torquing for a good true torque reading. Lastly I have no radiator recommendations. Copper is nice for being easy to repair in the middle of nowhere but very expensive. Also aluminum dissipates heat better than copper. Copper conducts heat better than aluminum but does not release it as quick. You definitely want to keep the temps under control with Vortec heads, 220-230 degrees you can just about bet one will crack.

 

[benjaminearle]

was that kit i linked to "perimeter valve cover gaskets" and "6-hole intake gaskets"? It was supposed to be model-specific to a '79 K15. Maybe the picture is clip art?

Good to know about the bolts. That's money I don't want to spend.

 

[crazy4offroad]

A 79 K15 will have perimeter bolt pattern valve covers and 6-bolt intake gaskets but going by the title of the thread I was under the impression you were installing Vortec heads, which require centerbolt valve cover gaskets and 4-hole intake manifold gaskets.

 

[benjaminearle]

Well, i bought my L31 yesterday. I'll put all my updates over here:

http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5795&goto=newpost

Why does everyone keep telling me that 4hrs to pull the engine isn't bad? Felt like 4 hours of hell to me.

I was spoiled as a youth to have a 4-lift shop and every tool known to man on rolling carts and two of each air tool.

Evidently everyone else works in the dirt with tools in a plastic wal-mart bag.

 

[smurph20]

LOL yea four hours isnt bad for an amature but like me i disassmeble cars everyday at a salvage yard. I can do a 4x4 Tahoe in about 3 hours and that with lifting the body up.