relay or something can someone tell me what this is

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

jason81k20

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 16, 2013
Posts
161
Reaction score
2
Location
pennsylvania
First Name
jason
Truck Year
1981
Truck Model
k20
Engine Size
350
I've read through a few pages and can't find anything about this thing...its on the driver side valve cover..has a wire that goes to the tach spot on the distributor, a wire to the fuse box, ground to the block and the 2 wires come off to a connector with nothing to plug into
 

Attachments

  • FB_IMG_13829895917198634.jpg
    FB_IMG_13829895917198634.jpg
    90.2 KB · Views: 113

chengny

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2012
Posts
4,086
Reaction score
1,010
Location
NH
First Name
Jerry
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
K3500
Engine Size
350/5.7
Speed switch for an idle solenoid (on a type of carburetor you probably don't have):


You must be registered for see images attach
 

jason81k20

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 16, 2013
Posts
161
Reaction score
2
Location
pennsylvania
First Name
jason
Truck Year
1981
Truck Model
k20
Engine Size
350
Speed switch for an idle solenoid (on a type of carburetor you probably don't have):


You must be registered for see images attach
I have a quadrajet...I thought was stock...what kind of carb is that for? Im trying to figure out how to read those electrical diagrams to figure out my oil pressure gauge they're confusing lol
 

chengny

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2012
Posts
4,086
Reaction score
1,010
Location
NH
First Name
Jerry
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
K3500
Engine Size
350/5.7
what kind of carb is that for?


IDK - might be associated with a Rochester Quadrajet.

I think that if you bought a Chevy/GMC back then, you would get a carburetor. It might have been a 2 barrel or a 4 barrel, electric or manual choke, etc. - but one thing was for certain; you were going to get a Rochester.

Some carburetors of that era had an idle control solenoid. Depending on the model year, it was used in two, very different ways:

Long explanation by me. I've never even seen one of these, so consider the source:

Originally, it's purpose was to prevent the engine from dieseling (running on after ignition was shut off). It was energized (and stroked out) whenever the key was in the RUN position. It was adjusted so that, when it was energized and the plunger was extended, it held the throttle linkage open enough to produce a smooth idle. When the key was turned to the OFF position, power to the idle stop solenoid was switched off. The plunger would retract - and the throttle plates (assisted by the external linkage springs) would be allowed to shut completely. This prevented any possibility of a run-on condition. Why this feature was considered necessary, your guess is as good as mine.

Later on it was adapted and used to prevent a drop in engine idle RPM when an external mechanical load was applied (read - the A/C compressor clutch pulled in). This was in the days before ECU's. The only input available to indicate a drop in RPM was the pulsed signal from the distributor C terminal (the same white wire used to drive the tachometer needle). The solenoid would be normally de-energized and the plunger would be clear of the carb's idle linkage.

If the A/C compressor clutch pulled in while the engine was idling (i.e. foot off the gas pedal and throttle plates nearly shut), RPM's would drop significantly. The pulsed signal from the tach would drop accordingly. If the signal dropped low enough, the speed switch would close and send power to the idle solenoid. The plunger would shoot out and contact the carb linkage.

There was a basic problem with this design however. The plunger was not nearly strong enough to overcome the spring tension in the linkage. It could only hold the linkage open - not drive it open. So, if the operator noted a drop in engine speed, he would have to depress the accelerator enough that the plunger could get under the throttle arm and hold it there. But the problem was, if he pushed too hard on the gas pedal RPM's could rise above the speed switch cut-out point and the signal to the solenoid would be lost.


Another guy - named Dave - is more articulate than I. He can say the same thing in 4 short sentences:


It depends on the car. On some cars, the idle stop solenoid is connected to ignition power so that the throttle is held open while the engine is running then closes fully when the key is off to prevent dieseling. If that is how yours is wired, it will work for the electric choke. On other cars the solenoid is normally retracted and is only powered under high load conditions, such as when the A/C compressor is on. In that case, it will not be suitable for use on the choke.
 

chengny

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2012
Posts
4,086
Reaction score
1,010
Location
NH
First Name
Jerry
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
K3500
Engine Size
350/5.7
The oil pressure gauge circuit is straight-forward.

There should be a single tan wire attached to the terminal on the top of the bell shaped sender behind the distributor. If that bell shaped sender is not there behind the distributor - look down on the lower LH side of the engine (by the oil filter). If it's down there it will be cylindrical in shape.

If you can locate the tan wire, check that the clip is securely pushed onto the tab on the sender. If it is properly attached, and the gauge still doesn't work, check for a faulty sender. Do this by pulling the tan lead off the terminal tab and touching it to a good clean ground.

If the gauge pegs out (might be high or low - I forget) - the sender is bad.

If the gauge is still un-responsive, you can work on the assumption that the tan wire is broken. It's not for sure but failure of the actual gauge is rare.
 

jason81k20

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 16, 2013
Posts
161
Reaction score
2
Location
pennsylvania
First Name
jason
Truck Year
1981
Truck Model
k20
Engine Size
350
Its pegged out past 60 so I'm assuming its grounded out somewhere I just swapped cabs so I may not have a ground hooked up somewhere all my other gauges work...I'm gonna do some more stuff to it this weekend so hopefully I can figure that out and the mark a few more things off my list:005:
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
42,332
Posts
913,862
Members
33,834
Latest member
ceyman72
Top