Peter coppola
Junior Member
- Joined
- Aug 22, 2020
- Posts
- 4
- Reaction score
- 0
- Location
- New Jersey
- First Name
- Peter
- Truck Year
- 1979
- Truck Model
- C10
- Engine Size
- 250 I6
Hello,
Having difficult brake system problem.
Getting my C10 Project Assembled. This has been a frame off project with full restore.
1979 C10. I replaced the entire brake system with 100% new parts except drum and rotors which were in good shape when I bought truck. It is a Power Brake System with Front Disc, Rear Drum.
I have the JB5 Booster and 1.3" thick front rotors (Cardone from Rockauto - could not find AC Delco). I think this is remanufactured but it sure looks new.
New AC Delco Master
New calipers
New Pads Power Stop
Reusing the rotors (good shape when purchased truck)
New rear shoes and hardware Powerstop pads and AC delco and raybestos hardware
Reusing the drums (good shape when purchased truck)
All new stainless lines from InLine Tube for my truck
New PV2 Brass Proportioning Valve for Disc/Drum Setup.
I have read many forum posts and my buddy and I are stumped.
I have completely bled and debugged all the fitting problems. No leaks and the stainless is a major PITA. Had to reflare one line as it was misflared by Inline tube. Have bled using the old method of pumping pedal and I even purchased a power bleeder power bleed.
The power bleeder with 10 psi pressure did not get fluid out of rear cylinders when I cracked bleeders. When we pump the pedal several times and hold, we get good flow and pedal drops to floor out of rear bleeders. Rear passenger stronger than rear driver. We remove rear driver line, blew out. Blew out driver rear cylinder, reassembled and re bled, no real improvement but we do get flow, but not as strong as passenger rear.
Three of us today spent three hours bleeding this truck. One working pedal, One working bleeders, One keeping master cylinder full. We ran a quart bottle of new fluid through system.
We get an OK pedal with truck not running. We start it up and pedal goes to floor and mushy.
I do not have my gauges in yet, but I did a continuity check with my meter for the proportioning valve and my brake light would be on as switch connected to grounded. I noticed a few days ago when we were bleeding the brakes, when I put my finger on the proportioning valve, I could feel the shuttle valve moving out towards the front disc side of the valve dust cover on the one end.
We are getting flow at all four bleeders when we crack the bleeder after pumping the pedal and holding. Today after a long time bleeding, we were getting a groaning sound when we were bleeding the rears.
I have replaced master cylinder once already with another AC Delco. I bench bled first MC using the plugs in box. Felt it took too long. Bled replacement MC using recirc lines I made back to reservoirs. Bench bled much faster.
We are stumped. Not sure where to go next. Is PV bad, MC bad (again), missing something obvious???
Son is suggesting maybe the flares to the PV are not concentric and partially block ports but we get flow to both calipers and two rear cylinder when using pedal.
Cannot get a good pedal and truck is not roadworthy.
Any ideas are appreciated.
Having difficult brake system problem.
Getting my C10 Project Assembled. This has been a frame off project with full restore.
1979 C10. I replaced the entire brake system with 100% new parts except drum and rotors which were in good shape when I bought truck. It is a Power Brake System with Front Disc, Rear Drum.
I have the JB5 Booster and 1.3" thick front rotors (Cardone from Rockauto - could not find AC Delco). I think this is remanufactured but it sure looks new.
New AC Delco Master
New calipers
New Pads Power Stop
Reusing the rotors (good shape when purchased truck)
New rear shoes and hardware Powerstop pads and AC delco and raybestos hardware
Reusing the drums (good shape when purchased truck)
All new stainless lines from InLine Tube for my truck
New PV2 Brass Proportioning Valve for Disc/Drum Setup.
I have read many forum posts and my buddy and I are stumped.
I have completely bled and debugged all the fitting problems. No leaks and the stainless is a major PITA. Had to reflare one line as it was misflared by Inline tube. Have bled using the old method of pumping pedal and I even purchased a power bleeder power bleed.
The power bleeder with 10 psi pressure did not get fluid out of rear cylinders when I cracked bleeders. When we pump the pedal several times and hold, we get good flow and pedal drops to floor out of rear bleeders. Rear passenger stronger than rear driver. We remove rear driver line, blew out. Blew out driver rear cylinder, reassembled and re bled, no real improvement but we do get flow, but not as strong as passenger rear.
Three of us today spent three hours bleeding this truck. One working pedal, One working bleeders, One keeping master cylinder full. We ran a quart bottle of new fluid through system.
We get an OK pedal with truck not running. We start it up and pedal goes to floor and mushy.
I do not have my gauges in yet, but I did a continuity check with my meter for the proportioning valve and my brake light would be on as switch connected to grounded. I noticed a few days ago when we were bleeding the brakes, when I put my finger on the proportioning valve, I could feel the shuttle valve moving out towards the front disc side of the valve dust cover on the one end.
We are getting flow at all four bleeders when we crack the bleeder after pumping the pedal and holding. Today after a long time bleeding, we were getting a groaning sound when we were bleeding the rears.
I have replaced master cylinder once already with another AC Delco. I bench bled first MC using the plugs in box. Felt it took too long. Bled replacement MC using recirc lines I made back to reservoirs. Bench bled much faster.
We are stumped. Not sure where to go next. Is PV bad, MC bad (again), missing something obvious???
Son is suggesting maybe the flares to the PV are not concentric and partially block ports but we get flow to both calipers and two rear cylinder when using pedal.
Cannot get a good pedal and truck is not roadworthy.
Any ideas are appreciated.
