Priming oil until it comes out of rockers 5.7 1992 engine

[geolee]

So put a new cam and lifters in yesterday I adjusted all the lifters and put oil in the engine and went to prime until oil comes out of the rockers and only got oil to come put of the drivers side. I was using a cheaper priming tool that I got from. Summit for like $20. I'm thinking the tool is the problem cause this pic shows they are different from a distributor. Have any of you ever ran into this?

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[Rickf]

If the priming tool works for one side but not the other, what makes you think it is defective? How long are you trying to prime? Do you have a SBC manual that shows the oiling route? Are both galley plugs behind the cam gear present?

 

[bucket]

If the priming tool works for one side but not the other, what makes you think it is defective? How long are you trying to prime? Do you have a SBC manual that shows the oiling route? Are both galley plugs behind the cam gear present?

If it leaves the oil galley open, it effectively bleeds off oil that would otherwise travel through the rest of the engine. There's a lot of priming tools out there that are poorly engineered and don't do what they need to.

 

[Salty Crusty]

^ yep. The shaft of the distributor (or priming tool) seals against machined surfaces in the block providing the oil passage from one side of the block to the other.

I made mine out of an old distributor, ground the teeth off of the gear and it works like a dream. Make sure your drill has plenty of grunt, it takes a bit of drill speed with torque to get pressure up.

 

[geolee]

^ yep. The shaft of the distributor (or priming tool) seals against machined surfaces in the block providing the oil passage from one side of the block to the other.

I made mine out of an old distributor, ground the teeth off of the gear and it works like a dream. Make sure your drill has plenty of grunt, it takes a bit of drill speed with torque to get pressure up.

I just got done grinding one down lol. The factory dizzy has round lobes and one of them cut down its weird cause the accell I have lobes all smooth and not the same as factory

 

[Turbo4whl]

When needed, I would borrow the pressure bleeder from work. Obviously, a more expensive tool than the $20 mechanical primer, is this a tool that can be borrowed or rented from your local machine shop or parts house?

The pressure bleeder allows one person to also rotate the engine while bleeding.

 

[Salty Crusty]

^ not familiar with pressure bleeding. I've seen pressurized oil tanks for LS engines since you can't spin the oil pump separately but I've never seen anybody do anything other than rotating while using a conventional priming tool in place of the distributor.

 

[Dutch Rutter]

I used the summit brand priming tool. Didn't have any problems. When priming make sure you rotate the engine by hand some then prime again. Rinse and repeat till all get oil, might take several minutes.

Could also be a problem with the tool. Can never rule that out. Could be the part was made on a Friday at 4:45pm.

 

[bucket]

^ yep. The shaft of the distributor (or priming tool) seals against machined surfaces in the block providing the oil passage from one side of the block to the other.

I made mine out of an old distributor, ground the teeth off of the gear and it works like a dream. Make sure your drill has plenty of grunt, it takes a bit of drill speed with torque to get pressure up.

I made one out of a distributor too. Other than the time spent, it was free. And it will never leak off the oil internally.

 

[Turbo4whl]

^ not familiar with pressure bleeding. I've seen pressurized oil tanks for LS engines since you can't spin the oil pump separately but I've never seen anybody do anything other than rotating while using a conventional priming tool in place of the distributor.

Very easy with the tool. Engine assembled with the distributor in place. Instead of filling the engine with oil, you fill the pressure tank. The tank is hooked with a hose to the pressure port by the filter or the top of the block. Shop air through a regulator and fill the engine with the pressure bleeder. Valve covers off to make sure everybody up top is getting their share of life blood.

 

[geolee]

^ yep. The shaft of the distributor (or priming tool) seals against machined surfaces in the block providing the oil passage from one side of the block to the other.

I made mine out of an old distributor, ground the teeth off of the gear and it works like a dream. Make sure your drill has plenty of grunt, it takes a bit of drill speed with torque to get pressure up.

That's what I did today hopefully tomorrow it will work. The factory gear has different lobes on the end of it. I think it's gonna work

 

[Salty Crusty]

Very easy with the tool. Engine assembled with the distributor in place. Instead of filling the engine with oil, you fill the pressure tank. The tank is hooked with a hose to the pressure port by the filter or the top of the block. Shop air through a regulator and fill the engine with the pressure bleeder. Valve covers off to make sure everybody up top is getting their share of life blood.

I visited with a few engine building buddies over the weekend, none has ever heard of doing this on anything other than an LS engine. Sounds interesting but a lot more trouble than just using a priming tool. Plus it doesn't test the pump...but it doesn't mean I won't try it sometime with an engine on a stand.

 

[MikeB]

For whatever reason, I have found that rotating the crank 180 degrees at a time will eventually get oil to all the rocker arms. Maybe it isn't the rotation, but simply the fact that I keep on turning the pump. ???

 

[geolee]

I modified my old distributor and cut the gears off and smoothed it out and used a drill and not very long after I had oil coming out of the rockers. The summit or jegs priming tools are built wrong it blocks the oil passage

 

[geolee]

^ yep. The shaft of the distributor (or priming tool) seals against machined surfaces in the block providing the oil passage from one side of the block to the other.

I made mine out of an old distributor, ground the teeth off of the gear and it works like a dream. Make sure your drill has plenty of grunt, it takes a bit of drill speed with torque to get pressure up.

Did that and worked perfect today