loose steering

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86chevyk20

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Hey guys so iv got all new steering parts in the front of my k20 but its all over the road. I have to turn the wheel like 2 to 3 inches it seems before get a reaction to the wheels. I do have all new parts but i am wondering how tight is the steering supposed to be in these trucks and what can i do to tightren it up?
 

chengny

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but i am wondering how tight is the steering supposed to be in these trucks

My 86 K20 was extremely responsive to steering wheel rotation. There was an issue for a couple of years (drifting and constant adjustments at highway speeds) that turned out to be loose wheel bearings in the front hubs. After I bought the proper hub bearing socket and torqued them to spec, the truck responded like a sports car.


what can i do to tighten it up?


Here is the "loose steering" checklist for 1986 K20/30:

1.Lash in steering linkage.
2.Air in system.
3.Excessive lash between pitman shaft sector and rack piston.
4.Loose thrust bearing adjustment.
5.Ball nut and worm preload.
6.Steering gear loose on frame.
7.Steering linkage worn.
8.Improper front wheel bearing adjustment.
9.Poppet valve worn.



Checks 3,4 & 5 refer to internal steering gear causes. Saginaw steering gears are usually very reliable and GM suggests the following before tearing into that component:

Maintenance


Four factors affect power operation of the steering system: fluid level and condition, drive belt tension, pump pressure and steering gear adjustment. These should always be checked before any major service operations are performed.
Conditions such as, hard or loose steering, road shock or vibrations are not always due to steering gear or pump, but are often related instead to such factors as low tire pressure and front end alignment. These factors should be checked and corrected before any adjustment of the steering gear is made.

CHECKING FLUID LEVEL


1.Run engine to normal operating temperature, then shut it off. Remove reservoir filler cap and check oil level on dipstick. Level should be up to ``Full'' mark on dipstick.
2.If level is low, add power steering fluid to proper level on dipstick and replace filler cap. When adding less than one pint of fluid, it is permissible to use automatic transmission fluid. When adding larger quantities or when making a complete fluid change, it is recommended that special power steering fluid be used.
3.When checking fluid level after system has been serviced, air must be bled from the system as outlined under ``Bleeding System.''
BLEEDING SYSTEM



1.With wheels turned all the way to the left, add the recommended fluid to the ``Add'' mark on dipstick.
2.Start engine. While running at fast idle, recheck fluid level and, if necessary, add fluid to the ``Add'' mark on dipstick.
3.Bleed system by turning wheels from side to side without hitting stops. Maintain fluid level just above internal pump casting. Fluid with air in it will have a light tan appearance. This air must be eliminated from fluid before normal steering action can be obtained.
4.Return wheels to center position and continue to run engine for two or three minutes, then shut it off.
5.Road test vehicle to make sure steering functions normally and is free from noise.
6.Recheck fluid level, making sure level is at the ``Full'' mark.



NOTE: For these trucks, be aware that a common cause of lost motion in the steering system is #6 above (steering gear loose on frame). It is an easy preliminary check.

This includes:

1. Loose or fractured steering gear bolting to the frame

2. Cracked/ elongated bolt holes in the frame member

If everything else looks okay, but you still have excessive lost motion - I can post steering gear internal adjustment procedures.
 
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MadOgre

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but i am wondering how tight is the steering supposed to be in these trucks

My 86 K20 was extremely responsive to steering wheel rotation. There was an issue for a couple of years (drifting and constant adjustments at highway speeds) that turned out to be loose wheel bearings in the front hubs. After I bought the proper hub bearing socket and torqued them to spec, the truck responded like a sports car.


what can i do to tighten it up?


Here is the "loose steering" checklist for 1986 K20/30:

1.Lash in steering linkage.
2.Air in system.
3.Excessive lash between pitman shaft sector and rack piston.
4.Loose thrust bearing adjustment.
5.Ball nut and worm preload.
6.Steering gear loose on frame.
7.Steering linkage worn.
8.Improper front wheel bearing adjustment.
9.Poppet valve worn.



Checks 3,4 & 5 refer to internal steering gear causes. Saginaw steering gears are usually very reliable and GM suggests the following before tearing into that component:

Maintenance


Four factors affect power operation of the steering system: fluid level and condition, drive belt tension, pump pressure and steering gear adjustment. These should always be checked before any major service operations are performed.
Conditions such as, hard or loose steering, road shock or vibrations are not always due to steering gear or pump, but are often related instead to such factors as low tire pressure and front end alignment. These factors should be checked and corrected before any adjustment of the steering gear is made.

CHECKING FLUID LEVEL


1.Run engine to normal operating temperature, then shut it off. Remove reservoir filler cap and check oil level on dipstick. Level should be up to ``Full'' mark on dipstick.
2.If level is low, add power steering fluid to proper level on dipstick and replace filler cap. When adding less than one pint of fluid, it is permissible to use automatic transmission fluid. When adding larger quantities or when making a complete fluid change, it is recommended that special power steering fluid be used.
3.When checking fluid level after system has been serviced, air must be bled from the system as outlined under ``Bleeding System.''
BLEEDING SYSTEM



1.With wheels turned all the way to the left, add the recommended fluid to the ``Add'' mark on dipstick.
2.Start engine. While running at fast idle, recheck fluid level and, if necessary, add fluid to the ``Add'' mark on dipstick.
3.Bleed system by turning wheels from side to side without hitting stops. Maintain fluid level just above internal pump casting. Fluid with air in it will have a light tan appearance. This air must be eliminated from fluid before normal steering action can be obtained.
4.Return wheels to center position and continue to run engine for two or three minutes, then shut it off.
5.Road test vehicle to make sure steering functions normally and is free from noise.
6.Recheck fluid level, making sure level is at the ``Full'' mark.



NOTE: For these trucks, be aware that a common cause of lost motion in the steering system is #6 above (steering gear loose on frame). It is an easy preliminary check.

This includes:

1. Loose or fractured steering gear bolting to the frame

2. Cracked/ elongated bolt holes in the frame member

If everything else looks okay, but you still have excessive lost motion - I can post steering gear internal adjustment procedures.

Please post steering gear internal adjustment procedures Please:)
 

flyboy1100

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subscribing
 

firebane

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Steering gear internal adjustment should really only be done if the power steering box is really at the end of its life.

The adjustment is required to help take up any play in the box but too much adjustment and you can harm stuff as well.
 

chengny

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The simplest way to identify the cause of lost motion (lack of response at the road wheels when the steering wheel is rotated) in a steering system is by visual inspection.

We'll assume that any slippage in the steering wheel to column shaft would be readily apparent - and only inspect the components located in the engine compartment

With an assistant cycling the steering wheel, start at the steering shaft where it passes through the firewall and work down and out to the wheels.

Check for slip/play and lack of response at the collapsible coupling:

You must be registered for see images attach



Then the rag joint and the splined coupling at the rag joint to steering gear input (stub) shaft:

You must be registered for see images attach




If that all looks tight, the next place to check for lost motion is through the steering gear. With your assistant still stroking the steering wheel left and right, carefully observe the reaction of the output (Pitman) shaft in relation to the action of the input (stub) shaft:

You must be registered for see images attach



I don't know the spec for allowable lost motion in the steering gear (or even how it is measured), but there really should be an almost instantaneous reaction at the Pitman arm when the stub shaft is rotated. It is probably easier to identify excessive play than to try to measure proper response. In other words, if you have to rotate the steering wheel more than say 15 degrees (maybe the width of the steering wheel cross bar) in order to get the Pitman arm to move - the steering gear has excessive lost motion.


After the steering gear it's pretty obvious how to find lost motion. As your assistant continues to work the wheel back and forth - just watch the various components that make up the steering linkage. If the linkage on one side moves, but the linkage on the other side doesn't move right along with it - that's lost motion.

It is important to remember that the total lost motion across the system may not all come from one worn component. You might have more than one slightly worn joint. If the play in each were taken alone, it might not be noticeable. But when added up, the total system play can make steering a chore. I have had trucks that, if you took your eyes off the road for even a couple of seconds, they would drift. When you finally looked up, you could halfway over into the next lane.

As usual these are just my thoughts - so consider the source. I make most of this stuff up.

Oh yeah - when you are all done with your inspection, it is considered appropriate to offer your assistant several cans of his favorite beverage. That is if he's still there - a lot of times they get cranky and go home immediately after the inspection process is complete.
 
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chengny

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Please post steering gear internal adjustment procedures Please

Sorry Mado - forgot you wanted that procedure. What type do you have?

You must be registered for see images attach
 

MadOgre

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Please post steering gear internal adjustment procedures Please

Sorry Mado - forgot you wanted that procedure. What type do you have?

You must be registered for see images attach

Thanks Jerry, I have 800 808 I guess. It is 1 3/4 turns from center to stop or 3 1/2 turns stop to stop actually just a little less then that.

Mine has always been a little noisy from day one when I replaced hoses pump and gear all the same day. So maybe that is my issue. But I can not find any leaks and everything is double clamped.

But its still not perfect! I have new tires as well

I am running straight ATF as no one could give me a good reason why not including GM.

I did adjust the sector shaft to remove 1/8 inch play that was present between the steering shaft and pitman arm.

The steering is a lot better after readjusting the front wheel alignment, repacking of front bearings, replacement of the rag joint and adjustment of the sector shaft.
 

87ChevyR10

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This is some great info!

My truck suffers from excessive play as well as too much left steering and not enough right. My truck could literally turn on a dime going left, but needs tons more room turning right. I do notice the front wheels hunt on their own, even at low speeds. I do hear some creaking noises coming from the front, too. Probably the ball joints complaining.

Fixing the front-end is about all the truck needs to be a better DD.
 

chengny

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Thanks Jerry, I have 800 808 I guess. It is 1 3/4 turns from center to stop or 3 1/2 turns stop to stop actually just a little less then that.

Okay, I'll gather everything I have on this SG unit and post it all together. But, rather than just tacking it on here, I will start a new thread. Watch for something like:

"Saginaw 800-808 Rotary Valve Type Power Steering Gears - Maintenance & Repair Procedures"
 

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