Jumpy steering

[fallguy]

Just did the axle swap and put on 4" rough country lift. Then got an alignment. When I hit a bump or sudden dip or rail road tracks the steering gets a bit scary/jumpy or bounces to where I have to work on keeping it goin straight. If I let go of the wheel it goes all over the place....kinda nervous to take it down the highway yet til this gets resolved.

When I turn the wheel the steering creeks like crazy, so I had a mechanic inspect my work...he says bad ball joints on drivers side, so I'm heeding his advice and changing them out.

Also while just driving around I have a lot more wheel slop....almost 17 degrees of play before the tires start to really respond. I have to do a lot more steering to keep it straight.

Any help???

JH

Sent from my iPad

 

[Gmule]

Bad ball joints will have a negative effect on steering for sure
Have you checked to make sure that your wheel bearings have the correct pre-load?

Once you have everything 100% on the front end you may still want to convert over to cross over steering to correct the bump steer issues.

 

[hirschdalechevy]

It's problably alignment , I have driven all my truck's over the years with smoked ball joints with nothing like that going on.But check everything , even bad tires can do that.

 

[bucket]

It's problably alignment , I have driven all my truck's over the years with smoked ball joints with nothing like that going on.But check everything , even bad tires can do that.

Agreed. I'm leaning towards alignment or tires.

Besides the lift and axles, what else is different from before? Did you install a raised steering arm?

 

[MrMarty51]

Over the years, I have had several vehicles with this problem, hit a bump and the tires start jumping and shimmying until I had to stop to get it to settle down.
Double check those tie rod ends, then move on to "Toe In".
it sounds to Me like the alignment shop set the toe in backwards.
Instead of the tires being towed in a 1/8th of an inch in the front, they probably have them toed in a 1/8th or so at the back of the tires.
I check My own toe in.
Using a big nail, or other scribing device, and a block of wood, jack up one, or both sides, remove the jack. Using the block of wood for a brace and, firmly grasping the nail, holding the point to about the center of the tire, spin the wheel, holding the nail firmly against it. this will scribe a line around the tire, do the same to the other side.
Using a tape measure, measure between the lines, approximately half the way, up from the floor, to the top of the tire, at hub center level. this will take two people.
The front of the tires should be towed "IN" about 3/32nds to an 1/8th of an inch.
I bet this will fix Your problem.

 

[MrMarty51]

OH Yeah, if this is for Your K-10, there is no other alignment procedures, only tow in.
Unless, they have installed some of those caming devices in LIEU of the ball joint tensioner nut, I highly doubt that.

 

[fallguy]

New ball joints on drivers side helped immensely! Also firmed up steering tensioner adjustment on steering box....big help and more control there now too.

Now to ditch the RC's for Tuff Country EZ Ride.

 

[fallguy]

In my research on shocks I found:

"the ride difference is amazing. Now bumps only result in a single response versus flopping all over the damn road. It's just over all more pleasant to drive...."

They used "Monroe Gas-Matics for an '02 F350 Super Duty cab&chassis 4x4 w/7.3L, part number 59578 $25.99"

Thoughts???

 

[89Suburban]

I am a big fan of the Monroe Gasmatics


Posted From Hell

 

[89Suburban]

Over the years, I have had several vehicles with this problem, hit a bump and the tires start jumping and shimmying until I had to stop to get it to settle down.
Double check those tie rod ends, then move on to "Toe In".
it sounds to Me like the alignment shop set the toe in backwards.
Instead of the tires being towed in a 1/8th of an inch in the front, they probably have them toed in a 1/8th or so at the back of the tires.
I check My own toe in.
Using a big nail, or other scribing device, and a block of wood, jack up one, or both sides, remove the jack. Using the block of wood for a brace and, firmly grasping the nail, holding the point to about the center of the tire, spin the wheel, holding the nail firmly against it. this will scribe a line around the tire, do the same to the other side.
Using a tape measure, measure between the lines, approximately half the way, up from the floor, to the top of the tire, at hub center level. this will take two people.
The front of the tires should be towed "IN" about 3/32nds to an 1/8th of an inch.
I bet this will fix Your problem.

I don't understand how you can measure that accurately. You using a tape measure? How can you get exactly down to an eigth or 32nd doing that? Are you scribing the inside or outside of the tire?


Posted From Hell

 

[crazy4offroad]

The "steering all over the place when going over railroad tracks etc" is called bump steer. If you have the stock, very short drag link, when you hit a bump and the suspension cycles the steering angle changes. Look at your drag link. If it is angled you may need some corrective parts like raised steering arm on the axle, dropped pitman arm on the steering box, and/or drop drag link. You want the drag link as level as possible. Another alternative is crossover steering. Your drag link will be about 4 feet long and much less susceptible to bump steer, although it is a very expensive option requiring a 2WD steering box, passenger side steering knuckle work for the steering arm, and the 0.120" DOM and ends for the drag link.

And John it is possible to get that accurate of a measurement. Once you get it close it only takes 1/4 to 1/2 turn of the tie rod adjusting sleeve to get there.

 

[hirschdalechevy]

In my research on shocks I found:

"the ride difference is amazing. Now bumps only result in a single response versus flopping all over the damn road. It's just over all more pleasant to drive...."

They used "Monroe Gas-Matics for an '02 F350 Super Duty cab&chassis 4x4 w/7.3L, part number 59578 $25.99"

Thoughts???

With r.c. lift springs you could run any shock you want and the ride will be pretty close to the same , (stiff). I have messed around with a lot of shocks on old lifted trucks with stiff lift springs and there is not alot of ride change.Now if you are running , custom,stock or soft springs thats a different story , shocks become way more critical.

 

[hirschdalechevy]

On all my old square's , make sure all your steering part's are good , ball joints , tie rod ends , draglink ends , steering box tight (no cracks in frame) and jack her up , pull the tires off and set her down on jack stands on level ground.Then I put a straight edge on each side between the wheel studs and go 1/8" toe in the front and thats good enough to drive well.If you have shim's on the front leafs take them out , (if you dont have to have them) and your truck will drive better not having the axle rolled forward.Then take her in and get the alignment checked if need be.