High Idle Issue

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DoubleDingo

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I think that your choke pull-off isn't working. the choke should open about 1/4 inch as soon as the motor fires. If not you are actually giving the motor too much gas. Try opening the choke a little bit as soon as the motor starts.

I hope this helps.

True. A properly working choke will close completely when you press the throttle down before starting and that also engages the fast idle. Once you start the engine the choke pull off opens the choke slightly to allow a little air and as the engine warms up for a climatic choke, or the choke coil warms up for an electric choke, the choke will open fully. If things are out of adjustment or not working properly the choke will not work. I had a bad choke issue. It was a climatic (warm air) choke, did a conversion to electric when I rebuilt the carb, and now it works flawlessly.
 

76chevyc20454

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True. A properly working choke will close completely when you press the throttle down before starting and that also engages the fast idle. Once you start the engine the choke pull off opens the choke slightly to allow a little air and as the engine warms up for a climatic choke, or the choke coil warms up for an electric choke, the choke will open fully. If things are out of adjustment or not working properly the choke will not work. I had a bad choke issue. It was a climatic (warm air) choke, did a conversion to electric when I rebuilt the carb, and now it works flawlessly.

I've noticed it opens about 1/4 of the way so the pull off it working but the guy that owned it before me put a spacer under the carb so I don't think the choke has the right linkage going to the spring in the intake manafold. I have trouble with it high idleing a lot
 

DoubleDingo

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Maybe that spacer is causing a vacuum leak.
 

rich weyand

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Not quite.

Manifold vacuum is just that, it is the actual vacuum in the engine manifold, and it is the best determinant of how much advance you need for the engine to run best. Ported vacuum came in in 1968 and is part of the pollution nonsense. The idea was to fire the spark late (no vacuum advance) at idle, so that it is still burning when it goes out the valves. If you use an AIR pump to pump air into the manifolds, you can burn up a lot of smog stuff in the manifold and exhaust pipe. It really helped smog in LA and NYC for people sitting in traffic, but also made engines idle crappy, required richer idle mixtures, made engines run hotter, and introduced an off-idle hesitation when the throttle was cracked and the distributor had to change off the idle position.

So switch to manifold vacuum.

Part of that whole pollution thing was also to retard the base timing. 4* BTDC was typical. You should probably start with about 8* BTDC, and advance it until you get knocking when pulling hard from low speed on a steep hill. Then back it off two degrees. Most GM V8s want to run in the 34-36* BTDC range when the mechanical advance is all in. If you are running a stock distributor, the mechanical advance is 20*, so 14-16 degrees is probably close to where you want to end up. You can start with about 8, or 10, or 12, and test from there. Some people just set it to 12 and call that good.

The rule is, more advance is always better, until you get to the knock limit.
 

76chevyc20454

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Not quite.

Manifold vacuum is just that, it is the actual vacuum in the engine manifold, and it is the best determinant of how much advance you need for the engine to run best. Ported vacuum came in in 1968 and is part of the pollution nonsense. The idea was to fire the spark late (no vacuum advance) at idle, so that it is still burning when it goes out the valves. If you use an AIR pump to pump air into the manifolds, you can burn up a lot of smog stuff in the manifold and exhaust pipe. It really helped smog in LA and NYC for people sitting in traffic, but also made engines idle crappy, required richer idle mixtures, made engines run hotter, and introduced an off-idle hesitation when the throttle was cracked and the distributor had to change off the idle position.

So switch to manifold vacuum.




Part of that whole pollution thing was also to retard the base timing. 4* BTDC was typical. You should probably start with about 8* BTDC, and advance it until you get knocking when pulling hard from low speed on a steep hill. Then back it off two degrees. Most GM V8s want to run in the 34-36* BTDC range when the mechanical advance is all in. If you are running a stock distributor, the mechanical advance is 20*, so 14-16 degrees is probably close to where you want to end up. You can start with about 8, or 10, or 12, and test from there. Some people just set it to 12 and call that good.

The rule is, more advance is always better, until you get to the knock limit.

Ok i will get a timing light and see if this helps.
 

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Ok i will get a timing light and see if this helps.

Why would you want to use manifold vacuum. It drops down when you open the throttle off idle and then slowly increases but not back to where it is at idle. That would take away the advance you have at idle thus working revers of what you wold want. You want to increase advance as RPMs increase right? Why would you want your advance to be reduced off idle?
This doesn't make sense to me at all.
 

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Why would you want to use manifold vacuum. It drops down when you open the throttle off idle and then slowly increases but not back to where it is at idle. That would take away the advance you have at idle thus working revers of what you wold want. You want to increase advance as RPMs increase right? Why would you want your advance to be reduced off idle?
This doesn't make sense to me at all.

There's others that can explain it better than me, but off idle is where mechanical advance kicks in.
 

Georgeb

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Why would you want to use manifold vacuum. It drops down when you open the throttle off idle and then slowly increases but not back to where it is at idle. That would take away the advance you have at idle thus working revers of what you wold want. You want to increase advance as RPMs increase right? Why would you want your advance to be reduced off idle?
This doesn't make sense to me at all.

So I see I need to do some research on this one.....

This was written by a former GM engineer as a response to a similar question on a Camaro board:


As many of you are aware, timing and vacuum advance is one of my favorite subjects, as I was involved in the development of some of those systems in my GM days and I understand it. Many people don't, as there has been very little written about it anywhere that makes sense, and as a result, a lot of folks are under the misunderstanding that vacuum advance somehow compromises performance. Nothing could be further from the truth. I finally sat down the other day and wrote up a primer on the subject, with the objective of helping more folks to understand vacuum advance and how it works together with initial timing and centrifugal advance to optimize all-around operation and performance. I have this as a Word document if anyone wants it sent to them - I've cut-and-pasted it here; it's long, but hopefully it's also informative.

TIMING AND VACUUM ADVANCE 101

The most important concept to understand is that lean mixtures, such as at idle and steady highway cruise, take longer to burn than rich mixtures; idle in particular, as idle mixture is affected by exhaust gas dilution. This requires that lean mixtures have "the fire lit" earlier in the compression cycle (spark timing advanced), allowing more burn time so that peak cylinder pressure is reached just after TDC for peak efficiency and reduced exhaust gas temperature (wasted combustion energy). Rich mixtures, on the other hand, burn faster than lean mixtures, so they need to have "the fire lit" later in the compression cycle (spark timing retarded slightly) so maximum cylinder pressure is still achieved at the same point after TDC as with the lean mixture, for maximum efficiency.

The centrifugal advance system in a distributor advances spark timing purely as a function of engine rpm (irrespective of engine load or operating conditions), with the amount of advance and the rate at which it comes in determined by the weights and springs on top of the autocam mechanism. The amount of advance added by the distributor, combined with initial static timing, is "total timing" (i.e., the 34-36 degrees at high rpm that most SBC's like). Vacuum advance has absolutely nothing to do with total timing or performance, as when the throttle is opened, manifold vacuum drops essentially to zero, and the vacuum advance drops out entirely; it has no part in the "total timing" equation.

At idle, the engine needs additional spark advance in order to fire that lean, diluted mixture earlier in order to develop maximum cylinder pressure at the proper point, so the vacuum advance can (connected to manifold vacuum, not "ported" vacuum - more on that aberration later) is activated by the high manifold vacuum, and adds about 15 degrees of spark advance, on top of the initial static timing setting (i.e., if your static timing is at 10 degrees, at idle it's actually around 25 degrees with the vacuum advance connected). The same thing occurs at steady-state highway cruise; the mixture is lean, takes longer to burn, the load on the engine is low, the manifold vacuum is high, so the vacuum advance is again deployed, and if you had a timing light set up so you could see the balancer as you were going down the highway, you'd see about 50 degrees advance (10 degrees initial, 20-25 degrees from the centrifugal advance, and 15 degrees from the vacuum advance) at steady-state cruise (it only takes about 40 horsepower to cruise at 50mph).

When you accelerate, the mixture is instantly enriched (by the accelerator pump, power valve, etc.), burns faster, doesn't need the additional spark advance, and when the throttle plates open, manifold vacuum drops, and the vacuum advance can returns to zero, retarding the spark timing back to what is provided by the initial static timing plus the centrifugal advance provided by the distributor at that engine rpm; the vacuum advance doesn't come back into play until you back off the gas and manifold vacuum increases again as you return to steady-state cruise, when the mixture again becomes lean.

The key difference is that centrifugal advance (in the distributor autocam via weights and springs) is purely rpm-sensitive; nothing changes it except changes in rpm. Vacuum advance, on the other hand, responds to engine load and rapidly-changing operating conditions, providing the correct degree of spark advance at any point in time based on engine load, to deal with both lean and rich mixture conditions. By today's terms, this was a relatively crude mechanical system, but it did a good job of optimizing engine efficiency, throttle response, fuel economy, and idle cooling, with absolutely ZERO effect on wide-open throttle performance, as vacuum advance is inoperative under wide-open throttle conditions. In modern cars with computerized engine controllers, all those sensors and the controller change both mixture and spark timing 50 to 100 times per second, and we don't even HAVE a distributor any more - it's all electronic.

Now, to the widely-misunderstood manifold-vs.-ported vacuum aberration. After 30-40 years of controlling vacuum advance with full manifold vacuum, along came emissions requirements, years before catalytic converter technology had been developed, and all manner of crude band-aid systems were developed to try and reduce hydrocarbons and oxides of nitrogen in the exhaust stream. One of these band-aids was "ported spark", which moved the vacuum pickup orifice in the carburetor venturi from below the throttle plate (where it was exposed to full manifold vacuum at idle) to above the throttle plate, where it saw no manifold vacuum at all at idle. This meant the vacuum advance was inoperative at idle (retarding spark timing from its optimum value), and these applications also had VERY low initial static timing (usually 4 degrees or less, and some actually were set at 2 degrees AFTER TDC). This was done in order to increase exhaust gas temperature (due to "lighting the fire late") to improve the effectiveness of the "afterburning" of hydrocarbons by the air injected into the exhaust manifolds by the A.I.R. system; as a result, these engines ran like crap, and an enormous amount of wasted heat energy was transferred through the exhaust port walls into the coolant, causing them to run hot at idle - cylinder pressure fell off, engine temperatures went up, combustion efficiency went down the drain, and fuel economy went down with it.

If you look at the centrifugal advance calibrations for these "ported spark, late-timed" engines, you'll see that instead of having 20 degrees of advance, they had up to 34 degrees of advance in the distributor, in order to get back to the 34-36 degrees "total timing" at high rpm wide-open throttle to get some of the performance back. The vacuum advance still worked at steady-state highway cruise (lean mixture = low emissions), but it was inoperative at idle, which caused all manner of problems - "ported vacuum" was strictly an early, pre-converter crude emissions strategy, and nothing more.

What about the Harry high-school non-vacuum advance polished billet "whizbang" distributors you see in the Summit and Jeg's catalogs? They're JUNK on a street-driven car, but some people keep buying them because they're "race car" parts, so they must be "good for my car" - they're NOT. "Race cars" run at wide-open throttle, rich mixture, full load, and high rpm all the time, so they don't need a system (vacuum advance) to deal with the full range of driving conditions encountered in street operation. Anyone driving a street-driven car without manifold-connected vacuum advance is sacrificing idle cooling, throttle response, engine efficiency, and fuel economy, probably because they don't understand what vacuum advance is, how it works, and what it's for - there are lots of long-time experienced "mechanics" who don't understand the principles and operation of vacuum advance either, so they're not alone.

Vacuum advance calibrations are different between stock engines and modified engines, especially if you have a lot of cam and have relatively low manifold vacuum at idle. Most stock vacuum advance cans aren�t fully-deployed until they see about 15� Hg. Manifold vacuum, so those cans don�t work very well on a modified engine; with less than 15� Hg. at a rough idle, the stock can will �dither� in and out in response to the rapidly-changing manifold vacuum, constantly varying the amount of vacuum advance, which creates an unstable idle. Modified engines with more cam that generate less than 15� Hg. of vacuum at idle need a vacuum advance can that�s fully-deployed at least 1�, preferably 2� of vacuum less than idle vacuum level so idle advance is solid and stable; the Echlin #VC-1810 advance can (about $10 at NAPA) provides the same amount of advance as the stock can (15 degrees), but is fully-deployed at only 8� of vacuum, so there is no variation in idle timing even with a stout cam.

For peak engine performance, driveability, idle cooling and efficiency in a street-driven car, you need vacuum advance, connected to full manifold vacuum. Absolutely. Positively. Don't ask Summit or Jeg's about it � they don�t understand it, they're on commission, and they want to sell "race car" parts.
 

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Too bad my current Square is a TBI. I want to mess around with this a bit now....may have to mess with the 78 my dad has.
 

rich weyand

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Why would you want to use manifold vacuum. It drops down when you open the throttle off idle and then slowly increases but not back to where it is at idle. That would take away the advance you have at idle thus working revers of what you wold want. You want to increase advance as RPMs increase right? Why would you want your advance to be reduced off idle?
This doesn't make sense to me at all.

Here it is in a nutshell.

The part that increases advance as the rpms increase is the mechanical advance. It makes up for the fact that the charge burn time is in milliseconds, but the timing is set by degrees. As the rpms increase, the number of milliseconds that corresponds to a given number of degrees goes down, so you give the engine more degrees of advance to keep the allowance for charge burn time up where you want it.

Vacuum advance is something totally different. When the throttle is open, and vacuum is down, the engine is pulling in more air/fuel, and you see the full compression of the engine, like 8:1 on these trucks, so there is 8 atmospheres of pressure at ignition. There is an optimal burn time for that.

When the throttle is closed, you may have 15" of vacuum, say, so the engine pulls in half as much air/fuel (because the intake manifold pressure is one-half atmosphere at that point, or half as many molecules for the volume -- the engine is still pulling nearly it's displacement in volume through every two revolutions). Anyway, on compression, you only get 4 atmospheres of pressure at ignition. This charge burns slower, because the molecules are farther apart. The optimal burn time for that is therefore longer, so the vacuum advance pulls the distributor advanced to give the slower-burn-time, lower-pressure charge time to burn.

Running on manifold vacuum sets the distributor correctly for the cylinder pressure at ignition. Running on ported vacuum sets the distributor correctly EXCEPT at idle, when vacuum is dropped to the advance canister, so the spark is too late. This dumps burning charge out through the valves into the exhaust manifold, where air is pumped in by the AIR pump, and the flaming charge and extra air burn up in the manifold what would otherwise be smog. Pollution stuff, introduced on January 1, 1968. 1968 model cars produced in 1967 don't have it, those built in 1968 (and since) do have it.

But from 1938 through 1967, vacuum advance was always run on manifold vacuum.
 
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rich weyand

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Ah, I answered the earlier post, and now see that you posted that GM engineer's write-up. He is exactly correct. Mine is just the short version. ;-)
 

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Ah, I answered the earlier post, and now see that you posted that GM engineer's write-up. He is exactly correct. Mine is just the short version. ;-)

So what should I set my timing at just making sure?
 

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