Frame Repair Need Advice

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Magnum44357

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I see what you guys mean now. I did some cutting earlier tonight, but it got late. (I don't like to make too much noise after dark, so the neighbors don't get PO'd) I got half of the plate's welds cut, so I'll finish it up tomorrow, and then posts some pics of what I find!

Thanks again - Magnum
 

Magnum44357

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Ok so I got out this morning and did some grinding. Got the plate off and found way more damage than I expected... I'm very glad I took your guys's advice and removed it. suggestions on how to go about piecing it back together? should I heat up that lower right bolt point and pound it back into place? or will that mess with the alignment with the steering box?

also, I finally took a picture of the steering box's broken bolt. Dont remember if i mentioned it before, but the top left bolt wasn't there lol... it had a little nub still attached to the box. would it be easier to buy a new box or try to drill out that bolt, I'm just not sure if its possible, the thing is pretty big :p

Thanks- Magnum
 

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crazy4offroad

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I would grind the booger welds down and clean it up, wire wheel the whole section and give it a good looking over, hammer that lower right hole, the metal around it, back into shape. Then MIG it all back together inside and out. The left top one may be hard to get to from the inside but that's where a MIG is a little easier to work with. Grind your work again (but not all the way out) and then weld on one of these patch kits...

http://autoplicity.com/products/392...o4&network=g&gclid=COvKorXz4rICFcKPPAodRHkA_A

You'll have to have some propane or mapp gas to heat it/shape it as you go, to get all the contact points close enough to the frame for welding.

As for the broken bolt, that's a tough one. It'll definitely need to come out since there's only 4 bolts it really needs all of em. You could try to drill it out and try using the stub sticking out the other end to get it out, using vice grips. You'll probably have to cut some off so it can screw out but leave enough to get vice grips on. And definitely drill it as much as you can without going too big and getting into the threads. Soak it good with penetrating oil, and you may want to try using a little heat on the steering box around the bolt but not on the bolt itself. Just don't use too much heat since it could hurt the seal at the pitman arm or in the end cap.
 

Magnum44357

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I would grind the booger welds down and clean it up, wire wheel the whole section and give it a good looking over, hammer that lower right hole, the metal around it, back into shape. Then MIG it all back together inside and out. The left top one may be hard to get to from the inside but that's where a MIG is a little easier to work with. Grind your work again (but not all the way out) and then weld on one of these patch kits...

http://autoplicity.com/products/392...o4&network=g&gclid=COvKorXz4rICFcKPPAodRHkA_A

You'll have to have some propane or mapp gas to heat it/shape it as you go, to get all the contact points close enough to the frame for welding.

As for the broken bolt, that's a tough one. It'll definitely need to come out since there's only 4 bolts it really needs all of em. You could try to drill it out and try using the stub sticking out the other end to get it out, using vice grips. You'll probably have to cut some off so it can screw out but leave enough to get vice grips on. And definitely drill it as much as you can without going too big and getting into the threads. Soak it good with penetrating oil, and you may want to try using a little heat on the steering box around the bolt but not on the bolt itself. Just don't use too much heat since it could hurt the seal at the pitman arm or in the end cap.

Thanks for the advice man. I'll get right on this tomorrow!
 

Magnum44357

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Ok, so I wasn't exactly able to "get right on this tomorrow" haha but I was able to finally get out this morning and do some more grinding. I ground all the old welds off, beveled out the cracks, and welded up most of it. I took your advice Crazy, and bought a cheap torch, pound the "pulled out" sections back, then welded them up. almost finished with this side, let me know what u think.

When these pics were taken, I had already welded and ground most of it. these were just the last few cracks that I filled in this morning.
 

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crazy4offroad

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You fuckers with Argon piss me off!! LOL :upyours: Yeah man, looks much better, and I'm certain that piece was off some other brand truck. You gonna get a patch to put on there too? I would at least make a plan to do the brace kit if not doing the patch.
 

bucket

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I agree, there is/was enough damage there to make the patch just about a necessity. And the brace is still a great idea too.
 

Magnum44357

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You fuckers with Argon piss me off!! LOL :upyours: Yeah man, looks much better, and I'm certain that piece was off some other brand truck. You gonna get a patch to put on there too? I would at least make a plan to do the brace kit if not doing the patch.

Haha, gotta love the cheater gas!

I didn't get a chance to get some more done this morning, so I spent 3 hours out there in the dark tonight... Rains in the forecast :( so I need to get it done asap!!!

I got a lot done though. Ground down the welds pictured above, did a few more beads and ground them as well (that top crack, and around the top left hole) after, I cut off the 3/8" thick plate the guy had tack welded and wedged in, on the backside... Ran a few beads from the backside then realized the cracks I was welding Re-cracked on the front :O

you suppose I didn't penetrate enough when I did the front welds? ground it down too much maybe? idk, but it was very frustrating... So I called it a night, and packed it up. I'll take some pictures in the morning when its light out to show you what exactly I mean.

And yeah I plan on getting one of the patch plates, and in the future when my budget permits, I'll do the brace kit.
 

crazy4offroad

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What size wire? What heat/speed settings? It is possible the heat just caused it to expand. The weld looked good to me, maybe just a little too cool. Your wire should never be the weld per se, the surrounding metal should. Instead of push/pull pattern, or side-to-side stitch (which is great for lap joints) I do small circular patterns over cracks. A quarter inch circle pulls in material from up to 3/4" around the crack so you have a good molten metal pool.
 
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Magnum44357

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What size wire? What heat/speed settings? It is possible the heat just caused it to expand. The weld looked good to me, maybe just a little too cool. Your wire should never be the weld per se, the surrounding metal should. Instead of push/pull pattern, or side-to-side stitch (which is great for lap joints) I do small circular patterns over cracks. A quarter inch circle pulls in material from up to 3/4" around the crack so you have a good molten metal pool.

The wire size is .30 the speed is 6 out of 10 and the heat is 5 out of 6.

I did do the circular motion as well. but maybe I should widen my circles or something...

Here are some pictures I took this morning. you can see the heat marks that transferred all the way through. you can also see in the pictures how much I ground down the welds (first picture is before I started on the backside) should I try leaving a little meat on them next time? (last picture is the sad, wet, view of its home right now)

Leaving for hunting in about 3 hours so I wont be able to do anymore work until early next week though :( and the rain hit last night like they said... Here in Washington once the rain starts, it never stops... all winter... and spring... and half of summer... haha
 

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89Suburban

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Nice work Terrence, you'll get there man. :)
 

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From what I can see, the cracks extended past your welds and you don't need to grind it down quite that flush. Did you 'v' out the cracks before you welded them?
 

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