Engine break in

[Skweegle89]

I know this has been covered before, and briefly in my build thread earlier, but I want to make sure I don't screw up.

Going to try to fire this new motor up tomorrow. Nobody in town carries any kind of break in oil or additive except for Lucas, which I have been advised not to use. Is there a conventional oil you can buy in the big box stores with enough zinc to use for break in without an additive? I will probably run the same oil for the life of the motor, so I guess I should ask if there is a cost effective solution. Not trying to cheap out here, just trying to be economical. Im headed to town to pick all this stuff up in about an hour so any kind of haste is super appreciated.

@350runner @HotRodPC @chengny @89Suburban

 

[firebane]

I recently went through this myself and no there isn't any conventional oil that contains enough ZDDP to be used for break in. You need a minimum of 1500ppm and the closest is Rotella which is like 1200.

Personally your going to need a lot of ZDDP because after the initial break in your going to have to drain the oil and redo it all over again for a few hundred miles.

I would look into these guys and see if anyone around you carries it:
http://www.camoils.com/location/usa.php

 

[89Suburban]

When you buy a new car is the engine already broken in or do they put that special stuff in it for you to drive away with it? Or is this talk just for our older motor rebuilds?

 

[firebane]

When you buy a new car is the engine already broken in or do they put that special stuff in it for you to drive away with it? Or is this talk just for our older motor rebuilds?

Motor is already broke in when you buy a car. Older engines need ZDDP to help keep the internals from wearing out faster and quicker.

ZDDP has been all but eliminated from modern oils cause it apparently destroys catalytic converters and other things.

Not using ZDDP with a hydraulic cam can cause flat lobes VERY quickly.

 

[Skweegle89]

Well I bought everything I needed except oil. Guess I will order Comp cams additive and wait another damn week.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[firebane]

Well I bought everything I needed except oil. Guess I will order Comp cams additive and wait another damn week.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes I know when we are SOOOOO close that itch just keeps itching until we can do it but sometimes we have to wait a bit longer to be done right.

Do it right and you'll be much happier.

 

[Skweegle89]

Have to buy an oil pressure gauge of some sort anyway because I can't seem to get mine fixed. Just keeps dragging on and on. I maxed my budget out when I bought the motor and my wife's not real happy about the extra $500 I have spent so far. The only part I get to reuse off my old motor is the intake, and I should replace that but I don't have a choice now.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[mrdeades1987]

I have been told to get the break in additive from my mechanic. He is putting a new 350 in my truck next week he says they sell it at autozone/advance/o'Reillys, I'm sure Napa does too. Idk I haven't been buy to get it yet

 

[Skweegle89]

I have been told to get the break in additive from my mechanic. He is putting a new 350 in my truck next week he says they sell it at autozone/advance/o'Reillys, I'm sure Napa does too. Idk I haven't been buy to get it yet

All they had was the Lucas additive, and have been advised not to use it. Every one of these dirt track mechanics I talk to laugh at me when I start talking about additive. Saying they always just break it in with the oil they are always going to run, but they only run those motors for 3 or 4 races and then rebuild them, so I don't think their opinion is valid here. And back when they were building motors all the time, I'm sure oil still had a sufficient amount of zddp in it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[firebane]

Did you check my link skwee?

 

[GTME94]

Motor is already broke in when you buy a car. Older engines need ZDDP to help keep the internals from wearing out faster and quicker.

ZDDP has been all but eliminated from modern oils cause it apparently destroys catalytic converters and other things.

Not using ZDDP with a hydraulic cam can cause flat lobes VERY quickly.

There really is no break in for a new car engines at the factory anymore. The engine has been rotated a half dozen times during assembly. Then almost all engines now only go through a cold test where the engine is hooked up electrically to a computer and then driven by an electric motor for about a 3 minute test. A few engine plants still hot test engines by hooking up fuel, electrical and coolant but most are trying to get away from it. For cold tested engines, the first time they fire up is at the end of the vehicle assembly line right before they are driven off. Most factory fill oil is the same as recommended service oil without special additives other than dye to check for leaks. But, they are all roller everything for the valvetrain and cylinder honing is very precise and modern rings don't take long to seat.

Your are correct about the additives poisoning the cat. That's one of the reasons oil has taken almost everything out.

 

[mrdeades1987]

All they had was the Lucas additive, and have been advised not to use it. Every one of these dirt track mechanics I talk to laugh at me when I start talking about additive. Saying they always just break it in with the oil they are always going to run, but they only run those motors for 3 or 4 races and then rebuild them, so I don't think their opinion is valid here. And back when they were building motors all the time, I'm sure oil still had a sufficient amount of zddp in it.

Yea my mechanic said he's never used it before and he's been rebuilding and replacing engines since the 70s he said it has something to do with the new way they make cams is why you have to add it. Idk nothing about weither Lucas is bad or not? I always thought they were big in the motor/oil industry???

 

[rich weyand]

...But, they are all roller everything for the valvetrain and cylinder honing is very precise and modern rings don't take long to seat....

That's exactly correct, and that's why there is no break-in period to speak of any more. Back in the day, though, there was a recommended period for new cars of avoiding constant speeds, not high-revving the engine, no WOT, etc. for the first few hundred miles. With roller cams and close-tolerance machining processes, all that is gone now.

I'm happy you decided to get the break-in additive and do it right. I read the first few posts earlier and felt like the proverbial guy watching a disaster happen in slow motion. So it's an extra week. So what. If you flattened the cam, you would be kicking yourself for ten times that long.

 

[Skweegle89]

That's exactly correct, and that's why there is no break-in period to speak of any more. Back in the day, though, there was a recommended period for new cars of avoiding constant speeds, not high-revving the engine, no WOT, etc. for the first few hundred miles. With roller cams and close-tolerance machining processes, all that is gone now.



I'm happy you decided to get the break-in additive and do it right. I read the first few posts earlier and felt like the proverbial guy watching a disaster happen in slow motion. So it's an extra week. So what. If you flattened the cam, you would be kicking yourself for ten times that long.

Lol I'm frugal, not cheap. I'm going to do it correctly, just getting anxious. My wife keeps walking around mad because there is $2500 worth of parts just sitting in my garage not being used yet, and I cringe every time I have to tell her that I need to go buy something else for it first.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[350runner]

Well I bought everything I needed except oil. Guess I will order Comp cams additive and wait another damn week.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wanna Break- in that bad boy tomorrow? Get that royal purple break- in oil they said they have and while your there get an oil pressure gauge and a copper line kit for it

GETERRDONE