Edelbrock 1405 carb running rich

[SirRobyn0]

I would run the new idle mixture settings and see how it does. Outside of that it'll be opening up the carb and looking for issues. I have a sneaking suspician this will help you out at least some, but it'll all be in how it does your next few drives.

You don't absolutely have to have those valve cover things, BTW they are called spreader bars. Some gasket kits will come with new ones so the are not hard to get. The thing is it you don't run the spreader bars, the clamping force will be more in just the spot the bolt is at and it will be easier to split the gasket at that point and or bend the tin valve cover. It's surprisingly easy to bend the factory tin valve covers, and once that happens the gasket will leak like crazy because it won't be holding it down properly anymore and you'll have to take the covers off tp tap the bends back out.

If there is no other hole then the yea you'd have to add oil though whatever holes there are.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

I’d be more than happy to tell you how it drives tomorrow except for the ignition just broke when I tried to go on a test drive… I ended up dropping the column and pulling the rod to get it started back and using vice grips as a “steering wheel” I have the column apart to just after the blinker switch but the tree screws behind it… one is rounded out I tried to drill it to atleast get it apart to get back but that’s one stout bolt or my drill bit is just junk. Is there any way of changing this rod without removing the three screws?

 

[SirRobyn0]

I’d be more than happy to tell you how it drives tomorrow except for the ignition just broke when I tried to go on a test drive… I ended up dropping the column and pulling the rod to get it started back and using vice grips as a “steering wheel” I have the column apart to just after the blinker switch but the tree screws behind it… one is rounded out I tried to drill it to atleast get it apart to get back but that’s one stout bolt or my drill bit is just junk. Is there any way of changing this rod without removing the three screws?

Wait I'm not clear on what happened. It's pretty unusual for the rod it's self to go bad unless with electrical part of the switch is frozen and it's forced. Are you pretty sure it's not in the lock cylinder or electric part of the switch?

My personal opinion is that those columns are an absolute pain to work on. At one time I was quite good with them and even had other shops ask me to come in and rebuild some. But that was a long time ago I stopped doing them when that style GM column got less common and now it's been probably 30 years or more since I tore one down. My point is I'll try to help you as best I can but we might have to bring someone else in to guide you a bit on the column.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

The “actuator gear” part broke, what holds the rod to the key cylinder. I don’t know how to get to the rod though. I’m sending pictures of how far I currently am. I don’t know how to get deeper into the column to get the rod out.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

Oh and I broke the turn signal switch and the ignition cylinder as well so I’m going to be putting the second turn signal switch and the third key cylinder in now..

 

[iamtherealJayy]

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Got it

 

[iamtherealJayy]

Got all the new parts ordered should sll be here by Wednesday. Until then I can’t do a whole lot with the truck I guess I’ll be driving the 87, which also need work so if you know anything about tbi go check out that thread

 

[SirRobyn0]

Got all the new parts ordered should sll be here by Wednesday. Until then I can’t do a whole lot with the truck I guess I’ll be driving the 87, which also need work so if you know anything about tbi go check out that thread

If you are able to put up a link for the other thread that would be great otherwise I'll try to remember to look for it later tonight, I know I'm not watching it. I'm running out of time at work today which is why I can't look for it now.

Yea the gear part I forgot all about those and I changed plenty of them back in the day. Ya that sucks not much a choice other than to tear it down at that point.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

1987 Chevrolet 350 tbi high idle

if possible, get readings pushing the accelerator pedal. that is how it is driven...

www.gmsquarebody.com

Here’s the link, I don’t have many problems with that truck other than first start of the day takes a few seconds of cranking and the idle is funky sometimes.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

I got all the new parts in, got everything assembled and the steering wheel had a lot of movement to it, took it all back apart and the lower bearing was missing every ball. Found all but 2. Is there somewhere I can buy this bearing? Or both?

 

[iamtherealJayy]

Also I could hear the relay clicking when I moved the wheel, it had something to do with the copper cylinder on the turn signal switch touching the back of the steering wheel. The turn signal switch I had in the truck the cylinder was missing is the relay clicking normal? What’s the copper cylinder do?

 

[SirRobyn0]

Also I could hear the relay clicking when I moved the wheel, it had something to do with the copper cylinder on the turn signal switch touching the back of the steering wheel. The turn signal switch I had in the truck the cylinder was missing is the relay clicking normal? What’s the copper cylinder do?

Are you talking about the horn contact set?

I'll look into the bearing thing for you, not sure. I bet it's not super common though, for the most part back in the day if we got one with bad bearings we'd get a column from a wrecking yard.

 

[SirRobyn0]

If you have tilt this should fit 78 - 86 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008Y9C9HQ/

 

[iamtherealJayy]

I think it’s the horn but I don’t have the rest of the horn in the wheel, but it was making a relay click, the back of the wheel where that piece sits is like slotted so depending where wheel is at it’s not contacting so could it be the canceling thing for the turn signals? I’ll have to look closer at the bearing, it’s not the same as the outer on

 

[iamtherealJayy]

Just finished the amazing job of replacing the bearings. Drove truck around the yard steering was a little stiff, after a few turns it get easier and I was like alright new bearings seated and everything’s good. Nope. The wheel fell back apart and moves all around. I’m tired of this ******** what’s best way to fix it because somethings destroying the bearings and making the balls fall out because it felt great for a few turns no wobble nothing then it got easy all of a sudden. I think part of the stuff was new bearing and part was the horn button thing since my old turn signal switch had it removed.