Choke Light

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Shalpass

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I have 84 c10 and my choke light stays on after its running... I can unplug the ground from the Edelbrock 600cfm and the light goes off... Does anyone have any idea as to why or how to fix the problem?
 

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Welcome from Texas!

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Skweegle89

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Anyone got any ideas?


Yes. Could be several things. There is a thread on this that was just started the other day. First of all make sure it's not a blown choke fuse. Then make sure you have 12 volts at the choke wire. The choke wire runs through your oil pressure switch. That way it acts as a warning light if you lose oil pressure. Could be that yours is faulty. It's located on the back of the block in front of the distributor. Note that you also have an oil pressure sender which is not the same thing.


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Skweegle89

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Make sure the wire didn't just come u hooked from the oil pressure switch.


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Shalpass

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It'll be next Saturday before I can check.. But thank you for any ideas so I can check it all when I get home
 

Skweegle89

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@chengny knows more about this than I do.


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Shalpass

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Maybe he will chime in... I could just unplug the negative it goes off that way but not sure how it'd run
 

chengny

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FIRST and MOST IMPORTANT is to verify that you have at least 10 psi of oil pressure with the engine running. Assuming you have gauges, you can verify this by the oil pressure gauge. Once you are sure that the oil pressure is above 10 psi with the engine running, check the choke MIL circuit as follows. (your CHOKE light is always ON so you can skip the first 2 steps):

TROUBLESHOOTING

On some models, the low oil pressure indicator light also serves as the electric choke defect indicator.

(SKIP) If Oil or ENG. (or CHOKE) indicator light does not light, check to ensure electric choke is not disconnected at carburetor.

(SKIP) Also check for defect in electric choke heater, blown gauge fuse or defect in lamp or wiring circuit.

If indicator light stays on with engine running possible causes are:

Oil pressure is low, switch to indicator light wiring has an open circuit, oil pressure switch wire connector has disconnected or on some models, gauge or radio fuse has blown.


The oil pressure warning light should go on when the ignition switch is turned on and the engine is not running. (SKIP) If it does not light, disconnect the wire from the engine unit and ground the wire to the frame or cylinder block. Then if the warning light still does not go on with the ignition switch on, replace the bulb.


If the warning light remains lit when it normally should be out,

Replace - or test - the engine unit (pressure switch) before proceeding further to determine the cause for a low pressure indication.

The warning light will sometimes light up or flicker when the engine is idling, even though the oil pressure is adequate. However, the light should go out when the engine speed is increased.
 

83kid

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Yes. Could be several things. There is a thread on this that was just started the other day. First of all make sure it's not a blown choke fuse. Then make sure you have 12 volts at the choke wire. The choke wire runs through your oil pressure switch. That way it acts as a warning light if you lose oil pressure. Could be that yours is faulty. It's located on the back of the block in front of the distributor. Note that you also have an oil pressure sender which is not the same thing.


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Not meaning to hijack the thread or anything, just have a little question:
I have a mechanical oil pressure gauge (my choke has ignition power to it, not running through the oil pressure switch), at like a diagonal and nearly underneath the distributor is the oil pressure sender unit for the gauge, is this the place where the pressure switch normally is, or is there another spot for that so you can have it on a mechanical gauge truck?
 

chengny

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The stock sender/switch assembly is usually set up like this:

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As shown above, the factory piping used a special fitting to allow both sensors to connect to a single tap point - and also allow them to fit under the distributor (if I had to come up with a name for that fitting, I might call it an "offset street tee").

There is another tap point that was used in earlier years and can still be useful for connecting a gauge or sensor to the oil system. There is a 1/4" NPT pipe plug just above the oil filter mounting flange. Pull the pipe plug and you will be into the main oil bore:

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Shalpass

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My oil pressure is good I'll be checking voltage today to see....what if I remove it...seems to me it's not even working anyways
 

chengny

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Remove what - the wire to the choke heater? Yeah sure; it won't hurt anything - your choke will just open slower than without the assist from the heater.

Or you can just by-pass the oil pressure switch and run the choke heater straight from the fuse. This will have the opposite effect - the choke heater will attempt to begin opening the choke as soon as the key is turned to RUN instead of after the engine has started (see below).

Someone recently wrote this on how to run the choke heater unswitched:

There should be a connector that goes to the oil pressure switch (the pressure switch is the one with two stabs). Find it. If it is gone, find the wires described below that used to go to it.

There should be 3 wires leading into the back of the connector; a pink/white, a light blue and a dark blue:


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The pink/white is the power supply for the choke heater and also powers the CHOKE dash light (or the oil pressure warning light if the truck did not come with gauges).That pink/white is a straight run from the load side of the CHOKE fuse to the oil pressure switch:


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When you find the pink/white lead, check it for 12VDC with the key in the RUN position.

I gather - from what I read above - that you have decided to run unswitched power to the choke heater. Really nothing wrong with that, just be aware that the choke heater assist coil will begin trying to open the choke as soon as the key is moved to the RUN position. Normally it will not do that until the engine has been started and oil pressure is established. So, if for some reason, you have the key on for any length of time prior to starting the engine - when the engine finally does start, the choke will immediately snap fully open (instead of opening slowly as the engine warms up).

If you find that you have 12 VDC at the pink/white lead, locate the light blue wire (which runs straight over to the choke heater) and just splice the P/W to the LB.
 
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