Camber Adjustments

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85Squared

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Is there any camber adjustments built into the factory upper control arm bolts? Or is a camber kit necessary? My driver's side tire is pretty worn on the inner tread and the camber needs to be adjusted out plus I'm gonna be cutting my coils soon so just wanna know if I need to get a cam bolt kit prior to doing the work so I can get it aligned afterwards. Thanks in advance
 
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85Squared

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Driver side tire

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shiftpro

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Where the A frames hook to the frame. There are shims.
 

shiftpro

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So to adjust the camber out I'm assuming I would just have to add more shims?
Exactomentchy.

If you need an inch of shims then the frame is shot. How do I know heh heh..? I had a GM2x in the late 70's when I lived in Saskatchewan. 100mph on gravel grid roads always jumping the truck over approaches and such. Broke many shocks and shock mounts. Made my own shock mounts so they didn't break. Ran the most HD shocks I could find, double on the front. And... kept adding shims. This kind of abuse bends the frame rails inwards. Pull the engine and wtf it won't go back in...? hmm..

Actually a great design in that if your lower A frame smacks something, it will move backwards a bit and reduce damage. I know about this from experience also.
 

chengny

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To adjust camber, an equal number of shims are added/removed from both stacks. To adjust caster shorten/lengthen one shim stack in relation to the other:

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85Squared

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Thanks for the advice definitely good to know. There's definitely some uneven wear going on the front tires, could be a bent frame, could just be from Fat Guys driving it it's whole life like myself and putting more stress on the driver side LOL. Either way I will get it straightened out before I cut my coils and before I get new tires
 

shiftpro

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Thanks for the advice definitely good to know. There's definitely some uneven wear going on the front tires, could be a bent frame, could just be from Fat Guys driving it it's whole life like myself and putting more stress on the driver side LOL. Either way I will get it straightened out before I cut my coils and before I get new tires

Cutting your coils... oh yes you mentioned this. To lower the truck I presume? You do realize that when you shorten a coil you increase the spring rate... quite profoundly. Just something to keep in mind.
 

85Squared

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Cutting your coils... oh yes you mentioned this. To lower the truck I presume? You do realize that when you shorten a coil you increase the spring rate... quite profoundly. Just something to keep in mind.
Yep, I'm only cutting one coil then adding 3 inch drop spindles to get the ride height I'm looking for.
 

shiftpro

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Yep, I'm only cutting one coil then adding 3 inch drop spindles to get the ride height I'm looking for.
Should be perfect.
Don't use a cutting torch in case you haven't thought about it. Heat kills springs. Maybe a plasma cutter or zip disc... cut a little at a time and plunk in a bucket of water.
 

85Squared

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Good advice, cutting wheel is all I got that will make the cut so that helps :)
 

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The real thin stinker...
zip disc on 4" grinder is one of my most used tools.
 

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FWIW, that tire wear looks like it is coming from the tow being set too far out. Tow settings are a funny thing, you wouldn't think one tire can get sawed off much faster than the other, but it can. Also, that tire might just have a broken belt causing it to wear out like that. There's many things to look into. By itself, negative camber usually wears just the shoulder of the tire (not half way across the tread too).
 

85Squared

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FWIW, that tire wear looks like it is coming from the tow being set too far out. Tow settings are a funny thing, you wouldn't think one tire can get sawed off much faster than the other, but it can. Also, that tire might just have a broken belt causing it to wear out like that. There's many things to look into. By itself, negative camber usually wears just the shoulder of the tire (not half way across the tread too).
That's a good point I'll definitely have to look into that as well.
 

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