building for different types of offroading

[columnshift]

Because the main offroading i've ever done so far was going places I needed to for work (so you guys go out and get stuck?? for FUN??? ) and trying not to get stuck, I don't have much knowledge that's probably common to everyone else in this board.

My biggest interest at the moment is in adding more competent offroad ability to a vehicle that will mostly driven on the street. Ie what will start as a 90/10 vehicle only going off road when I have to, might become 80/20 in the future once I get more rural, and 70/30 if I start finding hard to get places that i'd like to camp. An upgrade that helps me tow better like a stronger axle or a granny gear transmission happens to also improve the off-road ability so there's no downside. But some upgrades reduce the competence elsewhere so i'm trying to get a better feel for it all.

Because i'm still planning that "one Suburban I want to keep for DECADES" and only want to frame-off restore it and upgrade certain parts once, i'm trying to plan ahead a bit more than would be usual. What I mean by "understanding different types of offroading" is that I mean a Trophy Truck built for 120mph baja is built quite differently than a Pro-2 truck built to be light for a short course which is built quite differently than something tough optimized for rock crawling up impossible conditions. You can't make one do EVERYTHING. But i'd like to build something more competent off-road than anything stock in every way possible so i'm curious what goals there even are to set...


Besides high speed baja runs, short speed lightweight jump-heavy pro-2 stuff (which I probably have the least interest in or I wouldn't pick a suburban), and rockcrawlers, are there any other contradictory 'goals' people build for which make them choose one type of modifications over another? For instance I see solid axles on rock crawlers but independant everything on the other two.

I'm trying to understand where/when adding more offroad ability starts compromising my ability to tow or travel long distances for instance, beyond the level of swapping big tires back for road tires.


Sorry for all the words. Isn't sure how else to be clear without misunderstanding.

 

[marks86]

off-roading require three main things

1.good tires
2. axles to support those tires
3.lockers to put in said axles

1.get a set of A/t tires that are good on and off road
2.get a set of k30 axles with 4.10 gears (60/14B)
3.get front and rear Detroit lockers which are totally streetable

So as long as everything else is in good working order, and you have a healthy engine in that burban, I don't see why your chevy will have no problem doing anything you ask it to do

 

[highdesertrange]

it would be hard to argue with marks suggestions. i like a small lift also 2 to 4". highdesertranger

 

[77 K20]

Yep. What those 2 said. Simply adding a locker in the rear axle is a big difference. Then a bit of a lift. Then add a front locker. It will go some amazing places.

I just try to avoid very deep mud. Hate getting stuck in it, then working on a truck that has mud packed everywhere is annoying. I like playing in deep snow instead. Sure it can get wet and cold, but later everything melts and all is fine.

 

[DoubleDingo]

Yep. What those 2 said. Simply adding a locker in the rear axle is a big difference. Then a bit of a lift. Then add a front locker. It will go some amazing places.

I just try to avoid very deep mud. Hate getting stuck in it, then working on a truck that has mud packed everywhere is annoying. I like playing in deep snow instead. Sure it can get wet and cold, but later everything melts and all is fine.

Yep.^

And snow cleans the undercarriage as you drive through it. I prefer snow too, just don't get to drive in it as much as I would like to.

 

[HotRodPC]

I'd 4th or 5th what was said, whatever # I'd be. And a low lift too. I'd consider 4in a max to not have to worry about driveshaft angles, need for crossover steering and such. All while keeping the COG (Center of Gravity) still reasonably low and less chance of roll over on some of the more aggressive trails.

 

[89Suburban]

I'd 4th or 5th what was said, whatever # I'd be. And a low lift too. I'd consider 4in a max to not have to worry about driveshaft angles, need for crossover steering and such. All while keeping the COG (Center of Gravity) still reasonably low and less chance of roll over on some of the more aggressive trails.

What if your T-COG get's stolen?

 

[columnshift]

off-roading require three main things

1.good tires
2. axles to support those tires
3.lockers to put in said axles

3.get front and rear Detroit lockers which are totally streetable

So as long as everything else is in good working order, and you have a healthy engine in that burban, I don't see why your chevy will have no problem doing anything you ask it to do

Sort of planning all three (though maybe ARB air lockers or some kind of manual locker like Ox), was just curious about suspension options once you start considering something more. Used to be 33 inch tires and lockers would take you anywhere, then people started changing the definition of 'anywhere'.

I'd 4th or 5th what was said, whatever # I'd be. And a low lift too. I'd consider 4in a max to not have to worry about driveshaft angles, need for crossover steering and such. All while keeping the COG (Center of Gravity) still reasonably low and less chance of roll over on some of the more aggressive trails.

At what tire size or suspension travel increase does a 6 inch lift become needed? Is there any way to have an adjustable lift where I can boost it for off road tires (and suspension travel) off road, then lower it again for long highway drives? It's okay if this is a bit of work - it'd only change a few times per year and the only thing I can't have is two separate vehicles.


Is there anything to get "hung up" in the chevy's stock drivetrain? Example the pictures at bottom of http://realiftsusp.com/ of the IFS trucks... ick. (note I have no 4x4 truck to compare to! Both mine were 2wd trucks even though I also took them off road due to limited slip, just not very far off road.)

 

[77 K20]

Sort of planning all three (though maybe ARB air lockers or some kind of manual locker like Ox), was just curious about suspension options once you start considering something more. Used to be 33 inch tires and lockers would take you anywhere, then people started changing the definition of 'anywhere'.




At what tire size or suspension travel increase does a 6 inch lift become needed? Is there any way to have an adjustable lift where I can boost it for off road tires (and suspension travel) off road, then lower it again for long highway drives? It's okay if this is a bit of work - it'd only change a few times per year and the only thing I can't have is two separate vehicles.


Is there anything to get "hung up" in the chevy's stock drivetrain? Example the pictures at bottom of http://realiftsusp.com/ of the IFS trucks... ick. (note I have no 4x4 truck to compare to! Both mine were 2wd trucks even though I also took them off road due to limited slip, just not very far off road.)

With a 6" lift and doing off roading 35" tires are as big as you can really go. Once you start articulating the suspension the tires could rub if they were bigger. A lot depends on what size and type of wheels you have.

I've been high centered on the transmission crossmember. Some trucks have an extra little skid plate that go from the transmission crossmember to the transfer case crossmember. Those are kinda nice.

Soon after here I was starting to drag my crossmembers over this kelly hump. Ground was soft so I was able to plow my way thru. What I don't like when there are rocks like this is the side saddle tanks also scrape a bit. My truck has some skid plates along them which is also nice to have.

And depending on what type of off roading you will do, there are some other things to consider. Differential protection if the area has rocks or tree stumps. Either a guard or a different cover entirely will prevent the cover from getting smashed against the ring gear, or peeled back so your gear lube spills out.

Also to make the truck ride nicer and get more articulation either remove the front sway bar, or get a disconnect bracket. I found the difference to be amazing. Once you do that the limiting factor is your shock length then. The stock shock mounts are pretty low so you have to run a shorter shock. By buying a Ford front shock mount then you can mount them higher in the frame and that lets you run a longer shock.

 

[HotRodPC]

What if your T-COG get's stolen?

WTF