Anyone running a lift with a snow plow?

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Gmule

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To put it mildly my trucks suspension is hammered.
After checking out prices on suspension parts it looks like a lift kit would be the least expensive way to go since they come with everything I would need at a pretty reasonable price.

My issue is that I use my truck to plow snow and haul wood and other truck related stuff so I would want a small lift of like 2".
Does anyone here have any experience with a plow and a lift kit combo? Are some of the kits stiffer than others and could they handle the weight of a plow?


Greg
 

Christian Nelson

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Would also like to hear info on this. I know I've seen lots of lifted trucks with plows, but I dont know if they've got to drop the bottom mounts down, defeating the purpose of the lift in doing so, to make it all work.

I figured I'd do a 2" myself, and see how it worked. It may work better giving it a bit of rake, by lifting the back a bit more? My plan was a shackle flip in back, add a leaf 2" in front, and might be ok.
 

HAZZARDJOHN

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Just park your truck on level ground with the plow if float, then measure the amount of travel left in the piston. I know my plow has about 8-10” of travel left on level ground (which since it is at an angle is compounded by the distance from the cylinder to the end of the plow). Then figure out how much higher your frame would be and see if you’d still have travel left. I seriously doubt 2” would make that much of a difference. Not to mention you could just lengthen the chain and if your plow is like mine you can adjust the plow angle.
 

Gmule

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Would also like to hear info on this. I know I've seen lots of lifted trucks with plows, but I dont know if they've got to drop the bottom mounts down, defeating the purpose of the lift in doing so, to make it all work.

I figured I'd do a 2" myself, and see how it worked. It may work better giving it a bit of rake, by lifting the back a bit more? My plan was a shackle flip in back, add a leaf 2" in front, and might be ok.


That is exactly what I was thinking of doing.
I'm just not sure what front springs to use that will handle the abuse.
 

Gmule

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Greg
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Just park your truck on level ground with the plow if float, then measure the amount of travel left in the piston. I know my plow has about 8-10” of travel left on level ground (which since it is at an angle is compounded by the distance from the cylinder to the end of the plow). Then figure out how much higher your frame would be and see if you’d still have travel left. I seriously doubt 2” would make that much of a difference. Not to mention you could just lengthen the chain and if your plow is like mine you can adjust the plow angle.

My mount will allow my plow plenty of down travel if I change the position of the chain on the lift cylinder.

I am running a Meyer 7.5' with power angle
 

hirschdalechevy

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I ran my 78 with 4" rancho springs and 33 12.50's for years with no problems with a western blade on it.All you have to do is raise the holes where the pins go that hook the blades frame to the truck and beef them out ,(took me about 2 hours) with some steel and a welder and I left the frame work on the truck alone and extended the chain a bit.The thing is you want to keep the blade and frame work flat otherwise it wants to fold over when you hit ice or old snow when it is angled upward. Just make sure you beef out the frame work at the pin pionts that you exteded, Works great for me and I still have a lifted ride , the old rancho's are holding up great as well
 

GreaseDog

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Mine had 3 leaf springs in the front, and on 33 x 12.50s I couldn't get the pivot low enough. Mine is a 7.5' Western standard mount.
 

muddyman184

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theres a guy i know he has 76 shortbed stepside that has a 6"lift and 35s when he plows he puts his 33s on but its also an older unit with a setup that looks homemade from the 80s cause it hasnt changed since i remember it from the early 90s but he uses it every year next time i see it ill snap some picks
 

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