Ok guys just picked up a 89 crew cab 454 tbi in it. Been sitting a few years got it home and got a battery in it and it started up. But didnt want to stay running and had the keep foot on the gas. Pulled the plugs and they were pretty bad so I replace them and the cap and rotor. Wires looked good. Found one boot was off and Laying on the frame plugged that one back in! Still running about the same now. Spitting and spudding wont rev above 2k. So I did some looking around and came up with the coolent temp sensor maybe a weak fuel pump. Maybe timing but the distributor is tight and I dont think it's that. When cranking it seems like it is dumping the fuel in not the fine mist as is talked about in other posts looked at my 87 tbi truck just to verify and this truck you can hardly see the gas going in at idle. So question is would I weak pump do that or is it the cts telling ecm to pump to much gas? Pulled the tbi apart last night make sure injectors wernt plugged seems ok going to clean and reassemble. Truck has all the egr crap a mild cam and headers if that makes a difference.
Replacing the CTS is always a must. Those things just wear out over time. You replaced the plugs and inspected the wires, but I would get a new cap and rotor and call it good on the ignition system for now. Also, check for vacuum leaks. Several smaller ones or one or two big ones really hurt. You can inspected the lines, boots, and connections and do the spraying of the aerosol combustible around key areas. Be mindful of the base gasket area and the EGR valve. The EGR valve can loose its ability to hold vacuum, or it'll stick open. You can test it by working the plunger to make sure it's not stuck, and you can also push the plunger up, cap your finger over the vacuum port, and let go to see if it stays up. If it falls down, it's no good. If you can't get it to stay running long enough to check for vacuum leaks, you can either wait until you make headway with the other issue or use smoke from a cigarette, cigar, or e-cig and blow it in backwards from the vacuum connections at the TBI to see if it wafts out from anywhere. I'm not encouraging you to smoke if you don't, but if you do, that's an option. Now the fuel issue. You absolutely have to check your pressure. You want to see thirteen pounds. If not, the pump's bad. Also change your fuel filter when you remove it to do the pressure test. If the filter and fuel pump tests have happened and still no fix, I'd rebuild the TBI (super easy). That'll ensure you have new, clean gaskets/seals, screens, and a new FPR diaphragm. All of this should work, and the only thing really left after that is a stuck open injector, but I suggest working your way up to that because there are a couple solutions, and that's the last thing you really ought to look at. I meant to ask you. What are you getting for trouble codes? Is your computer showing you an SES light at startup? You know to jump the A and B pins on the ALDL connector with the paper clip and count the flashes to collect the codes, yes? You should get three twelves, up to three different codes that are flashed three times, and a concluding set of three twelves. If nothing's happening when you try to interface with the ECM, the bulb for the light in the cluster is burnt, or if you're just getting a solid, unchanging light when you jump the pins, the ECM is bad. Sensors to really be mindful of while getting started with this project (already mentioned the EGR valve and the CTS) are the IACV, TPS, and MAP sensor. You should get codes if there's something wrong with any of them, though, especially if you can get it running long enough.
