87 R10 TBI to EFI fuel line and tank upgrade

[steve240]

I am in the early stages of upgrading my 87 from the stock TBI 350 to a EFI ZZ6 350. I read an article on Holley’s website about upgrading to EFI tanks, in this article it shows standard high pressure fuel lines, so I ran with what I saw in the article, very helpful article if you don’t have a fuel injected square. Link below. Having a TBI motor apparently gives you different lines that are factory crimped lines. See photos below. I don’t really don’t see a solution except completely re-plumbing everything. I was hopeful I could do it like in the article, just replace the rubber at the ends of the metal lines.

I have the fuel pump(s) and sending unit(s) worked out. New Aeromotive 90PSI fuel pump through factory three line sending unit.

I need to work out the lines and I need to work out which Pollak 6-port switch tank selector valve is rated for EFI fuel pressures

Any suggestions?

How To Make Your Squarebody's Fuel Tank EFI-Ready

Converting your Squarebody's fuel tank to an EFI-ready system is a straightforward swap that you can handle with basic tools at home. Looking to swap engines or just want to bring your fuel system into the modern age? Here's what you need to know!

www.holley.com

 

[Ricko1966]

Your truck is EFI. With EFI senders and tanks. If you are concerned and I really hate to say this and think this but if you use tbi pumps as pusher pumps in the tank you can run a high pressure pump after the fuel switch and save yourself some plumbing.

 

[chevytech87]

if you use tbi pumps as pusher pumps in the tank you can run a high pressure pump after the fuel switch and save yourself some plumbing.

This is exactly what I’m doing with my 87. Way too much work/ sketchiness trying to push high pressure through the valve.

 

[steve240]

I have decided to overcomplicate this fuel system. I found the fuel diagram below for an LS pushing the same PSI as my new motor requires. I designed a system similar to this, bypassing the fuel tank selector valve for fuel delivery, but not for return, still using the same switch. My system has the two tanks (pumps 90 PSI) going through check valves to a Y fitting, to a filter and then to the regulator.

For the return (30 PSI or so) I’m going to run this through the valve, Pollack tank selector valves are rated for 65 PSI, looking into replacement cost, I would prefer one that isn’t 36 years old. Still researching and verifying this info.

The hoses, fittings and clamps (crimp style) are going to be Earl’s Vapor Guard rated at 225 PSI. The pumps, check valves, filter and regulator are Aeromotive.

As far as wiring goes I’m still working through that, I’m thinking independent relays for the pumps triggered by the tank selector switch, also triggering the tank selector valve for the return lines to flow the fuel to the same tank as it being pumped out of.

I modified the design below because I don‘t want to run dual regulators and filters.

All the metal lines will come out, except for the vent line, new rubber lines will be installed by the tank selector valve for the vent lines, where it splits between both tanks, supply will be rubber to the filter, possibly to the regulator, might use braided hose from filter forward. The return will be rubber(maybe braided) from the regulator to the tank selector valve, after the valve the line will be rubber.

I will have to use traditional hose clamps on the tank selector valve. Can I use braided fuel line with traditional hose clamps? The regulator return line requires a AN-06 fitting, the other end will be hosed clamped to the tank selector valve (30 PSI). I have no experience with this new soft braided line, might be a little bit of a learning curve.

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[Ricko1966]

I'm going to throw a pic up here and hopefully this will help. Bosch used these clamps on braided cloth hose on barbed fittings on D Jet L jet and for at least 1 other model of fuel injection just drawing a blank on the name. The L jet ran 35 psi and people routinely bumped the fuel pressure to 45 psi. That being said as many VWs Porsches Mercedes rolling around for decades with rubber hose, barbed fittings and good clamps. If you use common sense good hose and good clamps on your return side you will not have an issue. I get a pic of the clamps a minute ago, didn't think to get a pick of the hose I'll find one and post it for reference. I've used these clamps for decades repair shop air hoses, I slit the original crimped fitting peel off the sheet metal crimp reuse the barbed and threaded section with these clamps, they'll hold 150 psi air hose forever.