1982C 20 running rich

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

david58

Junior Member
Joined
Oct 23, 2021
Posts
2
Reaction score
0
Location
dawsonville Georgia
First Name
David
Truck Year
1982
Truck Model
c 20
Engine Size
5.7 M code
I have 1982C 25.74 barrel tried everything rebuilt carburetor adjust it many times cannot get it to quit running rich anybody got any ideas
 

AuroraGirl

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2019
Posts
9,274
Reaction score
6,265
Location
Northern Wisconsin
First Name
Taylor
Truck Year
1978, 1980
Truck Model
K10, K25
Engine Size
400(?), 350
I have 1982C 25.74 barrel tried everything rebuilt carburetor adjust it many times cannot get it to quit running rich anybody got any ideas
hows your timing
what is your spark plug number
is your timing chain in good shape and all that aligned
is your choke system working
is your THERMAC stuck shut if using factory air cleaner
is your distributor advance weights working properly
You must be registered for see images attach

See clean vs not? The rust ones will stick, not kick out, and the worn pivots and weak springs may not pull them back proper or let them consistently and properly pivot at all. you can buy a new kit if yours are worn if they arent worn but rusty you can clean em up and use a dry film lubricant or some say a dab of grease, but ideally you dont want it to collect debris or moisture. gm would have them unlubed at all but thats how they got rusty with time. they do selll distributor lube i think but no experience. i used a crc dry film ptfe spray. After cleaning up. Made my truck stop hanging randomly high rpms and let me set idle. but the distributor was also r-tarded quite a lot , so I advanced it. i will time it eventually but its much much closer. that combined with the proper heat range plug(These were not the proper plugs and were also fouling like mad obv as well.) Combination of that all, and a carb needing to be rebuilt made it run SOO god damn rich. But with a good carb it still was rich. its better now, and it recently stopped putting piles of soot where the exhaust dumps when I run it, which tells me the carbon and build up is clearing up. the engine oil doesnt burn now and is much much cleaner much longer too. My story here is to explain how multiple things can lead to issues. also how are wires, coil, vac lines, do you have a return line on pump, do you have stock carbb(I think so?) do you have the right adjustments for your elevation, do you have good compression do you have the right firing order(Hey ive seen people miss that.... somehow), does your air cleaner properly work, does your exhaust have EFE valve and is it free, is your exhaust good? what kind of gas you use, what kind of climate and driving you have/do?


your year may also have a ESC in the distributor/module in the truck. can you take a pic of your distributor with the cap and rotor off, as well as the wires leading to it? That will show us your centrifugal advance, too!

While at it, show us the contacts on the inside of cap and the rotor end, I had a low quality cap intefere with the rotor and some terminals were closer to the rotor on its swing than others and that made for some funky stuff
and hows your throttle cable? The originals are getting quite old, worn, and may have issues returning right or similar, worth a check.
 

Attachments

  • 20200701_092607.jpg
    20200701_092607.jpg
    176.7 KB · Views: 37

Forum statistics

Threads
42,416
Posts
915,613
Members
33,939
Latest member
wootensan
Top