1982 K10 steering problems

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Chief4451

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1982
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I bought a 1982 K10 4x4 a couple of months ago and didn't know much about it, other than it had a 4" rough country lift. I was adjusting the drag link so the steering wheel would be straight and I noticed the pitman arm attached to the steering box would raise up and actually lift the truck up a bit whenever I tried to turn. Why does it do that? I am looking into getting a raised steering arm to see if that would correct the problem but I don't know if my truck already has one or not. What are the specs between a raised arm and a stock arm? I appreciate the help in advance!
 

shiftpro

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Sorry nobody got back to ya.
If you haven't got your raised arm on by now...
 

Greybeard

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I bought a 1982 K10 4x4 a couple of months ago and didn't know much about it, other than it had a 4" rough country lift. I was adjusting the drag link so the steering wheel would be straight and I noticed the pitman arm attached to the steering box would raise up and actually lift the truck up a bit whenever I tried to turn. Why does it do that? I am looking into getting a raised steering arm to see if that would correct the problem but I don't know if my truck already has one or not. What are the specs between a raised arm and a stock arm? I appreciate the help in advance!

To put it bluntly, a raised arm looks like it goes up, a stock arm doesn't. If it is raising the truck when turning you don't have the correct geometry. The drag link should be as parallel to the ground as possible on a level surface. You could also go with a dropped pitman arm, for a four inch lift it is much easier to replace (with the appropriate tools). Without the right tools both are a bear to replace.
 

crazy4offroad

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Your drag link should be parallel to the ground. If not a raised steering arm might help. There are swedge locks holding it on under the nuts, they look like cone shaped washers. You'll need a propane torch and a 2 pound hammer to get the old arm off. Heat the steering arm, not the swedge locks for at least 15 minutes, maybe more and start smacking the arm along the side edge as well as on top, and at the end of the arm to get you some leverage. Try not to lose the locks, the new one wont come with replacements and they are hard to find. Be sure to use a light oil like WD-40 on the locks and blue thread locker on the studs when you put the nuts back on.
 

firebane

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Drag link does not need to be parallel to the ground but it should be pretty close.

With that said even my truck does this and I'm not sure why myself. I recently put a 4" lift into my truck and I'm using a raised steering arm and when I turn left or right without moving I can see the truck lift as well. This is typically seen more when turning the wheels so they point right more than they point left.

But I haven't also changed out the bushings on the rear hangers for the front shackles and those are completely shot and could be a cause of this as well.
 

Greybeard

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What you are seeing is caster lift. That is different than seeing just the frame lift, in your case the entire truck moves due to the caster of the front wheels. One side will go up while the other side goes down or remains motionless. It is the tires pushing the entire truck, including the axle housing up. The caster makes the rolling components return to center when moving.

And Firebane you are right, the drag link does not have to be exactly parallel to the ground. The closer it is though, the better the truck handles, despite whatever size lift is on it. The truck is designed to have a level drag link (within limits of course). But get to the point of out-of-level, where it starts pushing the body of the truck, and there are going to be steering problems such as bump-steer, reduced turning radius, and increased wear on the link ends. And suggesting a bent drag link would be a fix (although legal for some reason) is not a responsible answer. It is a fantasy patch to get the truck from point a to point b.

So, actually, the really correct answer is not that the drag link needs to be parallel to the ground, but the pitman arm mounting hole end and the steering arm mounting hole end have to be as level with each other as possible in order to attain the absolute best out of the available steering geometry.

Think of it this way... as the angle of attack increases, the torque required to attack is also increased, this requires something to give. Since the steering box is connected to the frame, and the resistance to turning is part of what the tires do normally, the easiest route for the torque to dissipate is through lifting the truck when turning left (or pulling it down if turning right).

So when a vehicle that uses caster to bring the wheels straight after a turn (all GM trucks with solid fronts to my knowledge) the combination of caster and camber will cause one side or the other to lift when sitting still, when driving this not as noticeable because the forces acting on the tires causes them to roll over so the tread is as close to flat on the pavement as possible. Otherwise the truck would be riding on the outside or inside edges of the tire during turns.

Although this does not seem to make sense, because both ends of the axle should have a equal caster angle that should mean it would lift the truck evenly during a turn in both directions, however, I have not found that to be true. Regardless, YMMV.

I had six +/- inches of lift, with ten inch wide rims using 15-15/39 tires, a lifted steering arm and dropped pitman arm on a Dana 44. That left my drag link within a quarter inch of being level on level ground (simply from memory mind you) I had no problems driving the truck with no hands on the steering wheel, or at high speeds. I could turn the wheels until they touched the drag link/pitman arm connection in a left turn and rubbed on (something, probably the rear of the right spring) in a right turn.

Anyway...

I found this to illustrate-

Caster – Negative and Positive

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Caster is the measure of how far forward or behind the steering axis is to the vertical axis, viewed from the side. An example of caster in action is the front wheels on a shopping cart. They run a large amount of positive caster to make the cart track straight without wandering. However, the method that the cart uses (displacement caster) is different than how your car develops it’s caster angle (angled pivot), but the effect is the same.
Positive Caster

Positive caster is when the steering axis is “in front of” the vertical. In a road car, this would mean that the top of the coil-over would be pushed towards the rear of the car. Positive caster creates a lot of align torque (the force that straightens the steering wheel when you go forward) which improves straight line stability of the car. Due to the geometry of positive caster it also will increase negative camber gain (a good thing) when turning. As you increase positive caster the steering will get heavier also, but with modern power steering systems this is rarely a problem. Generally you want as much positive caster as you can reasonably get so long as the car is equipped with power steering.
Negative Caster

Negative caster is when the steering axis is “behind” the vertical. This is generally only found on older vehicles due to tire technology, chassis dynamics, and other reasons. Modern vehicles do not use negative caster. It will lighten the steering effort but also increases the tendency for the car to wander down the road.

Special Note – Regardless of what caster setting you use, make sure that your caster is symmetrical. Running a different amount of caster on one side will cause the car to pull towards the side with less caster.
http://www.vikingspeedshop.com/suspension-101-camber-caster-and-toe/
 
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firebane

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Caster lift you say? Well truth be told I've rebuilt the entire front end of my truck and put in a 4" lift... And yet to do a alignment LOL.

I know I know needs to be done but perhaps the same could apply to the OP.
 

Georgeb

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Caster lift you say? Well truth be told I've rebuilt the entire front end of my truck and put in a 4" lift... And yet to do a alignment LOL.

I know I know needs to be done but perhaps the same could apply to the OP.

Even with an alignment you will see caser lift. It isn't as noticable on IFS vehicles but the solid front axle trucks sure do it. I remember the 90's fords seemed to be the most noticable with about 3" of movement as you turned lock to lock.
 

Greybeard

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I like a lot of caster in these old trucks, especially with large tires. I used a 12" steering wheel back in the day with no problems. Truck just drove down the road on it's own. Now, my current Dodge Ram 2500? It's nearly impossible to keep between the ditches. Wanders all over creation. Just the nature of the beast what with the pointless coil springs and track bars. Who would do such a stupid front suspension with a solid axle? Oh yeah, everyone but GM...D'OH!
 

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