Time to put a sound system in the hotrod, wanna bounce some ideas

TotalyHucked · Mar 13, 2024

Been reading around and found some audio threads but most of them are pretty old, wanna pick some brains and bounce some ideas for my truck. I haven't messed with audio stuff in nearly a decade so I'm still shopping around trying to figure out what I wanna do/buy. **Edit** I should preface this by saying, I'm not an extreme audiofile. I love music and I listen to it loud, but I'm not needing (or have the budget for) high end stuff. Also don't really have the space in these trucks for component setups (or at least I don't wanna bother lol).

Anyways, I'll be putting bucket seats in and building a full length console and behind the seat sub box/storage cubbies. I'm still rocking the original 3" in the dash with some Pioneer 3-way 6x9s in the corners and a Custom AutoSound OE looking headunit that has an AUX cord but no bluetooth. I think I've about decided to cut the dash :Whoa:

I just can't get past the $400 for another one of these OE looking HU's with bluetooth when you can get a really good single din for ~$100-200. Planning to do 3.5"s in the dash and maybe some 6.5s on either side of the console? Might do kickpanels but trying to avoid the extra cost since I'm building the console anyway.

Here's the buckets, there's TONS of room between them, so the console will be pretty good sized. I'll also be using Mike's (SloshTubz) universal seat mount, that will also give me a spot to mount the amp (amps?) and console. I've got an old Pioneer mono amp. Debating using that and buying a new 4ch or just buying a 5ch, leaning toward the 5ch just for simplicity. Do y'all prefer either way in particular?

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TotalyHucked · Mar 13, 2024

I have these Sundown SD-2 8's that I got in trade from a buddy YEARS ago lol. They're probably 7-10yrs old if I had to guess but always been stored indoors. If I can get them to fit, I'd like to use them. Their mounting depth is 4.75" and I figure they need about 6-6.5" total for excursion. I figure if they won't fit behind the seats, I'll mount one or both in the middle between the seats in a small bump out. Would like to have them either rear fire or down fire. In my NBS trucks, downfire always sounded best vs firing at the seats. Thought about building one into the back of the console but would worry about too much vibration?

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CalSgt · Mar 13, 2024

Looks like those subs call for .3-.5 CuFt airspace in a sealed box which should be doable with one of your listed box options.

What's the RMS power on your Amp? The current model Sundown SD 8's call for 400 watts RMS each, thats a pretty tall order.

I didn't research the sundown stuff that much what's the impedance (2 or 4 ohm) and are they single or dual voice coil?

4 channel Vs 5 channel really comes down to personal preference, space availability and budget. Any 5 channel amp with an 800 watt RMS (@ 4 ohms) sub output is gonna cost a pretty penny. Even ones that will do 500-700 watts into a 2 ohm load aren't likely to be cheap. The biggest issue with a 5 channel is matching the output to the system, many are either overpowered for the F & R channels or the Sub. If you're starting from scratch you can choose speakers rated to more closely match the AMP.

Random thoughts, since you're building a console why not put a DIN (or larger) head unit in there and just block off the old stereo hole. Another option would be a bluetooth receiver like they are using in boats and SxS's, they don't have as many features and don't provide power but are rather small and can be affordable for the right one. Many of the BT receivers don't typically do AM/FM or handsfree calling though if thats a dealbreaker.

For your console if you choose to make it a sub enclosure it shouldn't vibrate any more than anything else in the truck if built right. A proper sub enclosure should be rigid enough that it is acoustically dead otherwise speaker performance, sound output and sound quality may suffer.

Frankenchevy · Mar 13, 2024

Sony XM-5ES

Mobile ES™ Series 5-channel car amplifier — 100 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms + 750 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms

www.crutchfield.com

If your subs can be wired to 2 ohms, this would be perfect.

Especially if you are running coaxials or components with built in xovers (no DSP).

TotalyHucked · Mar 14, 2024

CalSgt said:
Looks like those subs call for .3-.5 CuFt airspace in a sealed box which should be doable with one of your listed box options.

What's the RMS power on your Amp? The current model Sundown SD 8's call for 400 watts RMS each, thats a pretty tall order.

I didn't research the sundown stuff that much what's the impedance (2 or 4 ohm) and are they single or dual voice coil?

4 channel Vs 5 channel really comes down to personal preference, space availability and budget. Any 5 channel amp with an 800 watt RMS (@ 4 ohms) sub output is gonna cost a pretty penny. Even ones that will do 500-700 watts into a 2 ohm load aren't likely to be cheap. The biggest issue with a 5 channel is matching the output to the system, many are either overpowered for the F & R channels or the Sub. If you're starting from scratch you can choose speakers rated to more closely match the AMP.

Random thoughts, since you're building a console why not put a DIN (or larger) head unit in there and just block off the old stereo hole. Another option would be a bluetooth receiver like they are using in boats and SxS's, they don't have as many features and don't provide power but are rather small and can be affordable for the right one. Many of the BT receivers don't typically do AM/FM or handsfree calling though if thats a dealbreaker.

For your console if you choose to make it a sub enclosure it shouldn't vibrate any more than anything else in the truck if built right. A proper sub enclosure should be rigid enough that it is acoustically dead otherwise speaker performance, sound output and sound quality may suffer.

Yeah I don't think room will be an issue, just gotta decide if I wanna use both or just one sub. Honestly one will likely do everything I want it to.

I ordered some stuff from Skar last night since it was on sale, got their 900W 5ch amp. Says it can 300W RMS at 4ohms or 450W RMS at 2ohms for the sub channel. Hopefully that will be enough. If not, I looked last night and I have an old Pioneer GM-D8601 that's a 1600W peak/800W 2ohm/300W 4ohm that I can use if need be. I remember it would push my old sallow Pioneer 12s pretty good in my '06 NBS.

The Sundown is a 4ohm, single voice coil.

That thought about putting the din in the console is actually a good idea, especially considering I just bought that factory block off plate from Keith :hmm:

I looked at all the Bluetooth receivers too, but kinda the same thing, they're a little pricy compared to just a HU.

Good to know on the console. It'll be made out of 3/4 MDF and I'll make individual chambers/etc for the sub/cup holders/pockets/etc. Might put a little sound deadener that I have left over inside as well as some polyfill.

See this is why I made this thread, bouncing ideas helps tremendously!

TotalyHucked · Mar 14, 2024

Frankenchevy said:
Sony XM-5ES

Mobile ES™ Series 5-channel car amplifier — 100 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms + 750 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms

www.crutchfield.com

If your subs can be wired to 2 ohms, this would be perfect.

Especially if you are running coaxials or components with built in xovers (no DSP).

That's a tad out of the budget lol. Hoping to be in the whole setup with building the console/sub box for less than a G

CalSgt · Mar 14, 2024

TotalyHucked said:
Good to know on the console. It'll be made out of 3/4 MDF and I'll make individual chambers/etc for the sub/cup holders/pockets/etc. Might put a little sound deadener that I have left over inside as well as some polyfill.

Eh, sound dampening (butyl stuff) won’t do much if anything for an MDF enclosure, you’ll be better served with some bracing and or an extra layer of MDF. The extra layer really helps on the baffle (speaker hole) side in making the box rigid. I’m not sold on polyfill either if you’re box size is within spec it shouldn’t be needed.

Sounds like you have a pretty decent handle on your plans.

Oh! I meant to mention it last time and forgot. Slosh tubs has partnered with a company to build speaker boxes for them, LOL that call them “Slosh Subz.” Kinda pricey and not really designed for your 8’s but worth a look.

Also I’ve found the box volume calculators on this site pretty useful for planning out box size:
https://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp#google_vignette

Turbo4whl · Mar 14, 2024

If you do decide to cut the dash, don't just cut the rectangle hole. Instead, cut straight across the top and bottom, not the sides. Bend the metal back on each side to make the DIN hole. That way it is easy to reconstruct the original two shaft mount by bending the metal back, couple tack welds, fixed. New plastic dash hides any scars.

hwyix · Mar 18, 2024

What kind of seats or those? How do you like them on a long drive? My bench seat looks awesome but I would hate to get rear ended. How do you like that seat bracket adapter?

I don't like the location of the radio. I don't want to cut up the dash. Maybe a custom console with buck seats is the way to go.

TotalyHucked · Mar 18, 2024

CalSgt said:
Eh, sound dampening (butyl stuff) won’t do much if anything for an MDF enclosure, you’ll be better served with some bracing and or an extra layer of MDF. The extra layer really helps on the baffle (speaker hole) side in making the box rigid. I’m not sold on polyfill either if you’re box size is within spec it shouldn’t be needed.

Sounds like you have a pretty decent handle on your plans.

Oh! I meant to mention it last time and forgot. Slosh tubs has partnered with a company to build speaker boxes for them, LOL that call them “Slosh Subz.” Kinda pricey and not really designed for your 8’s but worth a look.

Also I’ve found the box volume calculators on this site pretty useful for planning out box size:
https://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp#google_vignette

That's true, MDF is awful dense. I plant to build it very sold and bolt it to the floor front and rear with some rivnuts. I've never messed with polyfill either, I guess I'll hold off on that till I hear what it sounds like and then try it if it's lacking.

Lol yeah I'm good friends with Mike, I'd love to run one of his boxes but man, they're expensive. $900 and change for a bare box. He wants me to run his SloshBucketz eventually too. I told him I'll have both his buckets and sub box someday, but it's not in the cards right now. I hope to have the new seats, console, box and sound system done for ~$1000-1200 with upholstery (me doing it all).

That's a great link, thanks! I'll definitely be utilizing that

TotalyHucked · Mar 18, 2024

Turbo4whl said:
If you do decide to cut the dash, don't just cut the rectangle hole. Instead, cut straight across the top and bottom, not the sides. Bend the metal back on each side to make the DIN hole. That way it is easy to reconstruct the original two shaft mount by bending the metal back, couple tack welds, fixed. New plastic dash hides any scars.

Good thought

TotalyHucked · Mar 18, 2024

hwyix said:
What kind of seats or those? How do you like them on a long drive? My bench seat looks awesome but I would hate to get rear ended. How do you like that seat bracket adapter?

I don't like the location of the radio. I don't want to cut up the dash. Maybe a custom console with buck seats is the way to go.

They're out of an '03 Subaru WRX. Not sure how comfy they are on a long drive, I just got them last weekend and haven't gotten them mounted yet. Just sitting in them in the truck they seem very comfortable, though I will say the bolsters are a little much for a cruiser truck. I plan to autoX mine, hence finding the sportiest seat I could. Another good recommendation I could give is '11-14 Mustang GT seats. They're very comfortable, have good bolstering and are pretty easy to find and mount. That was my original plan to use until I stumbled on these.

The SloshTubz seat bracket is awesome! Very well made, super thick and strong and also has 2 different mounting holes up front so you can adjust your front seat height/tilt. Highly recommend it. It's not bad priced either, $329 I believe.

SquareRoot · Mar 18, 2024

82sbshortbed · Mar 18, 2024

KENWOOD KDC-BT382U CD Car Stereo Receiver with Bluetooth, AM/FM Radio, Variable Color Display, Front High Power USB, Alexa Built in, and SiriusXM Ready https://a.co/d/fTQAhFI

Got this coming tomorrow. I like Kenwood it's very good for the price. With this 5 channel amp I already have.

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I can get a better picture when I get home. But it's 1300 watts and pushes 4 speakers and also a sub channel. I had this set up in my 2000 camaro SS with 4 6.5 speakers and one 10" sub and it sounded great. All Kenwood stuff was very reasonably priced. 100for head unit 180 for amp 80 for 10 inch sub and I think like 65 for a oair of 6.5" 3way speakers. 2 pairs. This was five or 6 years ago so they're probably a little more now since everything is more. But great sound quality for the money. That amp would be plenty for you I'm sure. I'm still debating whether to get the kicker 10" sub in the box at Walmart for 129 bucks. Saw them today. One maybe 2 idk yet. I have 2 6x9s in a box also that I'll probably put in the back cab corners. Then some dash speakers too. Still putting it together but that's the direction I'm leaning because the last set up was great. So figured why not put it in the square. Lol

Camar068 · Mar 18, 2024

TotalyHucked said:
Been reading around and found some audio threads but most of them are pretty old, wanna pick some brains and bounce some ideas for my truck. I haven't messed with audio stuff in nearly a decade so I'm still shopping around trying to figure out what I wanna do/buy. **Edit** I should preface this by saying, I'm not an extreme audiofile. I love music and I listen to it loud, but I'm not needing (or have the budget for) high end stuff. Also don't really have the space in these trucks for component setups (or at least I don't wanna bother lol).

Anyways, I'll be putting bucket seats in and building a full length console and behind the seat sub box/storage cubbies. I'm still rocking the original 3" in the dash with some Pioneer 3-way 6x9s in the corners and a Custom AutoSound OE looking headunit that has an AUX cord but no bluetooth. I think I've about decided to cut the dash I just can't get past the $400 for another one of these OE looking HU's with bluetooth when you can get a really good single din for ~$100-200. Planning to do 3.5"s in the dash and maybe some 6.5s on either side of the console? Might do kickpanels but trying to avoid the extra cost since I'm building the console anyway.

Here's the buckets, there's TONS of room between them, so the console will be pretty good sized. I'll also be using Mike's (SloshTubz) universal seat mount, that will also give me a spot to mount the amp (amps?) and console. I've got an old Pioneer mono amp. Debating using that and buying a new 4ch or just buying a 5ch, leaning toward the 5ch just for simplicity. Do y'all prefer either way in particular?

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I'd build your console in such a way that it is your sub box if possible. Free up a lot of space back there.

Time to put a sound system in the hotrod, wanna bounce some ideas

TotalyHucked

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TotalyHucked

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CalSgt

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Frankenchevy

Proverbs 16:18

Sony XM-5ES

TotalyHucked

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TotalyHucked

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Sony XM-5ES

CalSgt

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Turbo4whl

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hwyix

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TotalyHucked

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TotalyHucked

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TotalyHucked

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SquareRoot

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82sbshortbed

Fuckemall!!

Camar068

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