Quality replacement steering box

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Bloodhound1981

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R Carnella said:
This will be the very next upgrade for my burb.
Just can't decide whether to get the one with a rag joint or the universal joint on the steering gear side. Any thoughts on this?
Click to expand...
I went with the u-joint, eliminating the rag joint is the biggest part of this upgrade.
 
R Carnella

R Carnella

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Did you notice any more vibration coming up from the column without the dampening from the rag joint. Also did the universal joint fit the steering box properly? I've seen where some have had to cut the pin from the steering gear shaft...
Bloodhound1981 said:
I went with the u-joint, eliminating the rag joint is the biggest part of this upgrade.
Click to expand...
 
rpcraft

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75gmck25 said:
I’ve gone through rest of my 1975 K25 front end, and now it’s time to get some of the play out of the steering box. There seems to be multiple alternatives, and I want to get it right the first time.

- buy a kit and rebuild mine (about $40 for the kit). However, I don’t have any knowledge of how to do the job. My concern is that I will not understand how to determine what is worn or needs adjustment, and I’ll end up with a box that is marginally better than it is now.

- buy a new box from Rock Auto (about $330-350). They sell Cardone, Lares and BBB, but I don’t know much about the quality.

- buy a remanufactured box from Red Head or Blue Top (about $450). Reviews of Red Head seem to indicate spotty quality control, and several have needed to get warranty replacements for leaks and other issues. Blue Top has good reviews, and is a little cheaper, but I’m not sure they have one for my truck.

My initial idea is buy a new box from Rock Auto, but I assume they are manufactured offshore, and quality may be inconsistent.

I’d appreciate any input from others that have replaced their steering box. Thanks.
Click to expand...
Buy a Lares brand steering box brand new from any parts store, no rebuilds. They are quality OEM replacements and known for not having issues. It's a top tier brand.
 
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Bloodhound1981

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R Carnella said:
Did you notice any more vibration coming up from the column without the dampening from the rag joint. Also did the universal joint fit the steering box properly? I've seen where some have had to cut the pin from the steering gear shaft...
Click to expand...
Nope, no vibrations to speak of. And the U joint fit correctly.
 
R Carnella

R Carnella

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rpcraft said:
Here is a video about the shaft conversion - There are others. You just make sure its a Cherokee XJ shaft -
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Click to expand...
Thanks, this is the borgeson shaft I'm considering.
You must be registered for see images attach
 
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JT58

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I had a shop do mine and they used a NAPA box (rebuilt). I was worried about issues but so far so good, no play or slop and no leaks.
 
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MPWILSON33

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I used the Redhead box and the Borgeson U-joint link. I love them both. It drives much more precisely. The Moog ball joints however, are tight as a nun's a$$. When they wear in it will be even better.
 

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WFO

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MPWILSON33 said:
I used the Redhead box and the Borgeson U-joint link. I love them both. It drives much more precisely. The Moog ball joints however, are tight as a nun's a$$. When they wear in it will be even better.
Click to expand...
Reminds me of an old joke about lug nuts. You might want to recheck those ball joints.
 
BBCfan

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I'm in the process of rebuilding my Saginaw 800 (?)box. Not a job for the impatient or mechanically challenged. If you decide to rebuild yours and its a Saginaw keep me in mind for some pointers. I had less trouble replacing internal Muncie transmission parts.
 
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