I really appreciate you following through and letting me know but it looks like my appetite was bigger than my budget. I just won an arm wrestling match with my personal CFO for a carburetor so I’m tapped out at the moment, sadly I have to pass.
Thanks for letting me know!
Yes to both questions.
The Morryde kit was complete, the coolest part is a reinforcement bracket that goes between the roll bar foot and the corner of the tub.
Overall the bumpers are great. They have a few chips in the coating (very similar to bed liner) but that’s all and they are about 10...
@chevytech87 those are the exact same bumpers we have. The tire carrier was a pita! The “hinge” doesn’t use any bearings, it is a solid round stock post on the bumper and the carrier has a piece of split tubing that clamps snug on the post (you can see the pinch bolts in your pic). Periodic...
Then you should buy lottery tickets because there are thousands upon thousands of trucks (I’d bet literally hundreds of thousands) that cracked (stock and modified).
Ours has a 3” lift and 35’s, it looks good and she doesn’t wheel it anymore so it’s fine for driving around. I liked the tire to body gap better with 3” and 33’s but she likes the bigger tires. It rides great and there’s no weird steering or vibrations however the 35’s sucked a lot of power out...
Header flange thickness is directly related to gasket sealing success. Thin flanges can get warped easily, thick flanges seal better for longer.
My Sanderson’s have 3/8” flanges and seal great with Permatex Ultra Black.
My bet is that’s a typical 4” kit without the shackle flip. The flip brackets look well built but homemade, I haven’t seen any built like that before (single gusset about the spring eye). With the flip brackets being basically even with the bottom of the frame I’d guess they are 2”-2.5” lift...
I see it now. In the first post I didn’t noticed the loose connector hanging, I was just looking at the cap.
At this point, you’ll have to trace that wire because that slot should be empty on a truck without a factory tach.
There is not a wire connected to the distributor cap at the tach slot, it’s a small 1/4x1/4 slot that should have a connector like the ignition wire. The ignition wire is in the slot closest to the firewall and the pick up coil plug is behind the tach slot close to the distributor cap.