Firewall cleanup & paint prep, any tips?

[Josh Helm]

yes I used a extreme marine rated paint and new seam sealer myself

 

[shiftpro]

Yeah it's rusted already. Trying to clean out all that original sealer and will replace it with por15 topped by new seam sealer.

Consider treating the rusted areas (even after grinding it off) with converter before the POR15.

 

[SmashBack]

I don't think there's any way to fit a grinder in there, it's in the cowl where the seam sealer is against the firewall. Honestly asking though, why converter before POR15? Granted I haven't owned anything that I used POR15 on long enough to determine if it's actually as good as they say, but I've always used it over "clean" rust as directed and so far haven't seen any issues with it. That being said I'd like it to stop forming new rust so I'm open to whatever

 

[shiftpro]

I don't think there's any way to fit a grinder in there, it's in the cowl where the seam sealer is against the firewall. Honestly asking though, why converter before POR15? Granted I haven't owned anything that I used POR15 on long enough to determine if it's actually as good as they say, but I've always used it over "clean" rust as directed and so far haven't seen any issues with it. That being said I'd like it to stop forming new rust so I'm open to whatever

The rust continues to do it's thing, however much more slowly without oxygen. POR 15 is an encapsulator which hides this rust progression. Long term results show this. Guy's argue this because they used POR on their frames, just a few years ago at most, and they think everything is fine. Give it more time.

 

[Josh Helm]

Total agree ..thats why I use kbs coatings they are like por 15 but better ..they sell it with a zinc phosphate wash which etch's into the rust then apply there encapsulator...i also know lots of guys who like to use cold galvanizing spray then paint because of the high zinc contain some thing to help prevent repeat oxidation ..or go old school and use vinegar ..

 

[Panic]

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I’m just finishing up my firewall. Quite a bit of rust repair and sheet metal replacement. Also the upper cowl where the windshield wipers and cowl vent are was totally rusted from leaves and neglect. I cut out that part and welded in a new section I cut out of another truck at pick n pull. Here’s some pics

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[Panic]

Some more pics.... out of sequence I think

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[Panic]

I also removed the driver side cowl by drilling out the spot welds. Welded in a new bottom section to replace the rusted part. Then de/rusted it painted and spot welded back on. Crazy amount of welding on this job so far

 

[eskimomann209]

You forgot the pinch welds

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[Panic]

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Oh yeah. You can see a lot of the pinches and spots. I’m not going for a mirror finish. A little closer to a “Roadkill Muscle Truck” build. Plus I’ve gone a big crazy already. Here’s a picture of the chassis, stroked, TKO etc. Sandblasted powder coated frame, c notch, steering box frame section braced and welded

 

[eskimomann209]

She’s absolutely gorgeous

 

[shiftpro]

Some more pics.... out of sequence I think

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Damn nice job there, way to go.
How did you weld the new panel in? Your beads look so... beady. Pulse tig?

 

[Panic]

First I oversized the replacement panel and then used a crimper to put a step in the edge so that it had a flange type fit. That allowed me to put in some fat welds that required very little grinding to make them flat. I mig welded the with my Lincoln SP135



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[Panic]

Oh I just realized you were referring to the top cowl panel. Yeah, I just mig welded one spot at a time. To keep the heat down I used an alternating pattern. I didn’t get any distortion or warpage even with all that new metal. It took a long time but it was fun


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[eskimomann209]

What did you use at pick n pull to cut that out?